p.83 #1 · Sigma DP2 Merrill: Have any of you tried it?
I get the best results with DP2M files using the new topaz clarity plugin. I use spp just for basic raw conversion to a 16bit Tif and sharpening -1. Within clarity I try some presets and optimize from there. It does not create artifacts and halos. A small blue hue correction gets rid of the grey green tint and gives perfectly blue skys.
p.83 #2 · Sigma DP2 Merrill: Have any of you tried it?
Anyone had any success with a means to attach filters to the factory hood ?
Looks like up a 52mm would fit
I'm thinking of either using my 49mm mag filters from my RX100, which would require another one of the little magnetic rings stuck on the front, OR, maybe getting a 52mm step down ring, grinding off the threads, and gluing that to the front, so its threaded for a 49mm filter ( given i've got a ton of 49mm already and don't think it will vignette)
Either way, should hopefully let me keep the hood always attached and have faster access to putting ND's on/off, rotating polarizers etc
It works as is if you take the hood off I do realize, but I think just being able to quickly stick on/off a filter using the mag filter method would make life a little easier and also not wear the kind of thin/cheap plastic tabs on the hood off as fast.
Other option I thought of was maybe cutting out a little notch in the top or bottom of the hood so that I could then reach in and spin the polarizer but that could introduce some light leaks I think.
The hood really is useful with these cameras so I do like using it, and the Sigma one works really well, better in fact than some of the Ebay screw on hoods I've tried, which really are all too wide to be that useful, but I also really like using filters so its kind of a catch 22
p.83 #4 · Sigma DP2 Merrill: Have any of you tried it?
I accidentally ordered the DP2 hood with my DP1, so I have an extra DP2 hood if anyone is interested. For some reason no one carries the DP1 hood, I had to order it off of Sigma's website.
The hoods are overpriced, they usually are, but they fit really well and provide a lot of protection for the lens.
p.83 #6 · Sigma DP2 Merrill: Have any of you tried it?
That one does look a bit deeper than most. I've gotten various ones off Ebay, both collapsing and also metal vented and while they work, they seem like they were designed to accommodate a wide angle lens so they don't really prove too useful.
Now to some degree, when I'm using a filter like a 10 stop ND, its usually not really an issue with sun glare etc, both from a compositional as well as time of day standpoint, so it does work to just take the hood off in those cases, but I'd ultimately like to have a means to keep the sigma hood always attached, like its part of the lens.
Really no reason to not have it on, save for filters at present.
I'm actually on my second one in fact, first one having gotten a bit loose and fallen off on the trail. If you look inside the hood, there is a really thin little plastic strip that provides the "lock" of the hood and that just seems to wear out quickly, make the hood easy to knock off.
p.83 #8 · Sigma DP2 Merrill: Have any of you tried it?
andyjaggy82 wrote:
Can't you put the hood on over the filters? I can with most of mine, except for the thicker polarizer filter I own.
Yes you can, but you can't adjust polarizer and you have to keep taking the hood on/off which wears it out, like what is happened to my last one. Nubs started to wear down, it was loser than when new, and I lost it.
Got a new one now, fits tight, but would like to try to keep it that way
p.83 #13 · Sigma DP2 Merrill: Have any of you tried it?
Thank you.
millsart - It is actually 2 rows x 3 columns merged together by Photoshop Photomerge feature. The final merged image was then crop for composition. The final composition could probably be accomplished by less images in hindsight. Still learning.
p.83 #15 · Sigma DP2 Merrill: Have any of you tried it?
I've found that as long as your doing long exposures for the water, they usually stitch fine. Its stuff like ocean waves, or fast shutter speeds in general, that cause the problems.
With a long enough shutter speed you basically average everywhere the water could be so frame to frame isn't going to be different.
You can also work around the issue a bit by making sure your not having an area with dynamic movements right in a stitched area. Such as making sure if you have waves breaking on some rocks that you try to center those in one frame
p.83 #18 · Sigma DP2 Merrill: Have any of you tried it?
Just focus on whatever you want to be in focus and choose the required F-stop.
If your doing a 3 shot stitch to get the look of shooting it with a larger format lens, Benzler method or whatever its called, then you focus on that subject
If you want a landscape shot with everything in focus, you would use the hyperfocal, just like doing a single frame composition.
Using really long glass for multi row pano's can present some issues with DoF, but with just a 30mm lens, DoF really isn't an issue, nor is field curvature as you rotate the camera
