I'm currently using a convertable boom but the problem with it is that the arm can't be reversed and by default the boom angle works against the tightening arm so that the light is constantly loosening the tightener. Additionally, I have to torque the arm down with incredible pressure (and I can bench press 300lbs).
Today, despite torquing it down, it slipped in the middle of a photo session with an AB1600 and kacey dish on it. Fortunately, it did not hit the model but I realized I have to replace it.
Can anyone recommend something decent for $200-$250?
This boom stand sounds horrible, not to mention dangerous. So much for the "righty tighty, lefty loosey" rule from this manufacturer. Are you seeking separate stand and boom components, or a combo stand? Also, peruse these useful threads from the FM archive:
I'm not sure whether I want a combo or separate. I thought the combo would be more sturdy.
The problem with the design on the manfrotto is that there's a plug on the end which keeps you from reversing it. If I could reverse it, I could set up the boom so that it's going in the direction of tightening the arm instead of loosening it but I'd still have the problem of it not tightening down correctly.
There's nothing "mini" about the mini boom though- maybe compared to a geared crane type setup. All steel with this setup, not lightweight or compact at all, but it's solid.
Are you currently using a T shaped boom you can counter-weight? With a T shaped boom counter-weighted to balance the weight of the flash head and modifier you don't need to rely on tightness of the pivot point alone to hold it in place. A correctly counter-weighed boom will stay in place with minimum force.
Can't make any specific recommendations but can suggest what to avoid. The cheaper booms appear to come from the same mold somewhere in China and use inter-locking teeth on the pivot point. The teeth prevent slippage if the counter-weighting isn't perfect, transferring the load to the support stand, but require loosening the pivot to the point it will shift to the next indent. It works but is a PITA to use. The cheap boom I bought from Buff with my AB lights is that style, but I put up with the inconvenience because I don't the angle very often:
In retrospect I wish I'd gotten one with a friction plates at the pivot where the pivot adjustment independent from the attachment to the stand. Counter weighting is more important vs. the toothed style but they are easier to adjust. The best booms I've seen are the parallelogram arm designs like Calumet/ Redwing, but they are pricey and require a lot of space.
Hmm, I've not seen casters specific for C stands. Probably because of the way C stand bases fold up... the casters would prevent them from folding flat, but if you left it in a studio all the time, I imagine that generic add on casters could be found for them.
If you've not used C stands before, they're far more resistant to tipping than regular tripod type stands. But the boom I linked has a standard mount, so it'll fit any light stand. I just happen to prefer C stands.
cgardner wrote:
In retrospect I wish I'd gotten one with a friction plates at the pivot where the pivot adjustment independent from the attachment to the stand.
Just for reference, the mini boom is of this design. It's also made in Italy, for added sex appeal.
This is what i'm currently using. I don't have the counterweight for it though. I've just been weighting the base. Even though the counterweight would solve the torquing problem in terms of the boom not falling, it wouldn't solve the problem of the arm being loose in the "grip". There's still an issue there.
Difficult to tell from the small photo but it appears to have separate controls for attaching to the stand and controlling the angle, but would need counter weights.
FWIW - Sometimes in my tight space I wind up with the arm of mine extended do far the the shorter end with the counter-weight can't balance it. Rather than add more counter weight up in the air I attach bungie cord between the short side and the base of the stand or weight on the floor to create counter-force and add weight to the base of the stand to keep it from tipping.
Manfrotto mini boom is reliable. Has a flat, medium-sized footprint that isn't too cumbersome in tight spots. Ships with a counterweight, with full tilt/swing control.
cgardner wrote:
Are you currently using a T shaped boom you can counter-weight? With a T shaped boom counter-weighted to balance the weight of the flash head and modifier you don't need to rely on tightness of the pivot point alone to hold it in place. A correctly counter-weighed boom will stay in place with minimum force.
Can't make any specific recommendations but can suggest what to avoid. The cheaper booms appear to come from the same mold somewhere in China and use inter-locking teeth on the pivot point. The teeth prevent slippage if the counter-weighting isn't perfect, transferring the load to the support stand, but require loosening the pivot to the point it will shift to the next indent. It works but is a PITA to use. The cheap boom I bought from Buff with my AB lights is that style, but I put up with the inconvenience because I don't the angle very often:
In retrospect I wish I'd gotten one with a friction plates at the pivot where the pivot adjustment independent from the attachment to the stand. Counter weighting is more important vs. the toothed style but they are easier to adjust. The best booms I've seen are the parallelogram arm designs like Calumet/ Redwing, but they are pricey and require a lot of space. ...Show more →
well, some good news. I put 2 washers inside the clamp handle and it went from impossible to tighten to merely half-brutal. It tightens down pretty good but my wife wasn't able to tighten it. I did order a counterweight for it so that should help.
I need to second (or third) the Avenger D600 mini boom. It is much more substantial than the Manfrotto shown above, and will easily and safely meet your load requrements. It is kind of heavy, and adds to the load a stand needs to support, but a good mid range folding stand like the Avenger A635, or most any C stand, will work well. Some folding stands do have wider footprints than C stands, which can be helpful, but remember that if you counter balance the boom correctly for its current extension, there is no tipping force applied to the stand. Many people use a boom like the Avenger D600 on C stands, but almost always with bag weights.
If you need to roll it around, look for a folding stand with built in wheels that has the load rating to work for your needs. The Avenger A430 is an example of one that would match the D600 boom fairly well. C stands were never inteded to have wheels, but rather are for getting in to unusual spots and being able to be put close to each other.
To elaborate, Century stands are designed for grip arms and related functions, not for boom support. C stands from Matthews, for example, are all-steel but support just 22 lbs. More serious are the Matthews Hollywood stands, some taking loads of 90 lb, and most coming with wheels. Wheels for your boom are a must. My boom is the quite enormous D650 (big brother of the D600).
I have the same combo stand. I think the counter weight will help a lot. I agree that you have to give it quite a torque to keep the boom from rotating, but I can't imagine trying to tighten the boom without a big counter weight on the back end. I just use the included sandbag loaded with weights, but I think I need to get the moveable counterweight. Using just a fixed weight on the very end of the boom makes balancing a pain in the rear when I need to adjust the arm length.
I have both the A4039CS boom and an A420 with D600 boom. While the A4039 is more portable and has an adjustable leg for outdoor work, one of the main issues I have with it is that the boom tilt and boom lenght adjustment are controlled by the same clamp. The D600 is much easier since the tilt adjustment is completely seperate clamping handle. The rotation of the boom shaft (twist the boom column) and the 1st section length adjustment is also seperate. Finally, the grippy foam on the D600 also makes managing the boom a touch easier.
How does this make a difference in the real world? Combi-booms require you to support the weight of the boom when tilting between say 100 and 240 degrees of the vertial support. For example at 135 degrees you would have to hold up the weight of the boom, light, modifier and counterweight OR else the gear would slide up to the locking knuckle of the boom. Tilt it down and it will slide all the way to the other end where you would mount the counterweight...
On the D600, once you lock in the boom lenght and balance it, its set. Tilt it to 100, 180 or 240 degrees and nothing slips around.
On both the A4039CS and D600, the tilt lock 'spins' in the proper direction - righty tighty - i.e. when weight is applied to the strobe end - making more torque on the gripy parts.
I use both the Avenger A4050CS and i have used a A4039CS before, the A4050CS is studio only, big heavy and stable. The 4039CS is more portable. I hang an Elinchrom RX600, Mola Euro w/grid and an Avenger adjustable arm on it, that has to be close to 30lbs....
The wheels are a must. Add $90 to the cost, but completely worth it. Without question.
Here is a photo of it extended to about 10'. I regularly hang it out almost to capacity with that setup:
My boom is the quite enormous D650 (big brother of the D600).