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Shutter speed is irrelevant for strobe, as long as it is 1/100 of a second or slower. (really 1/500 or 1/800 on LF, but just use 1/100 as a rule of thumb.)
The flash itself is very short, and freezes motion like a shutter.
If you have a very dark room and are doing still lifes, you can do multiple "pops" to get more exposure and use f 64, etc if you want. With portraits you need to do it in 1 shot.
You will not have reciprocity issues.
If you want to mix ambient (room) light & flash, you can "drag the shutter", ie use a 1 sec or whatever effective shutter speed you would need to get part of the light from daylight. You might be surprised by varying color temperatures doing that. Perhaps use a digital camera as a "Polaroid"?
If you are lucky enough to have 220/240 volt power available, there are some strobe units that can use 650 watt modelling lights! That is the best of both worlds in one fixture, letting you really see what is on teh set clearly, or possibly shoot some video.
If you do go to hot lights, my personal favorites are Ianiro. Not as common in the US, more often used in Canada and Europe.
You might also want to look at a strobe set that also offers an HMI (such as Profoto or Broncolor - not sure of Speedotron?) That way you can use the same light reflectors & fixtures with the HMI as with strobe. Profoto & Broncolor are expensive though.
Just sold my 6, 4x5 cameras! bad neck & shoulder, too much for me now.