When using an L-plate and RRS ball head with lever release clamp with the D700, I find that I have to disconnect the Nikon remote cord (MC20) from the remote receptacle as it gets in the way of closing the clamp in vertical orientation. Question I have is whether anyone has experience with third party remotes for a D700 that would not get in the way when using an L-plate in vertical orientation with an RRS ballhead with lever release clamp. Brand name and where to purchase is appreciated, thanks!
Are you using the RRS L-plate? If so, you've already got a solution: the mounting screw is in a slot, not a hole. If you loosen it a little, you can slide the entire L-plate about an inch down, which should give you enough room for all the connections on the left side of the body.
Smiert Spionam wrote:
Are you using the RRS L-plate? If so, you've already got a solution: the mounting screw is in a slot, not a hole. If you loosen it a little, you can slide the entire L-plate about an inch down, which should give you enough room for all the connections on the left side of the body.
Thanks, that is definitely a possible solution I had not thought of. It does make the camera and plate larger to put away into the camera bag. I was hoping maybe one of the third party remotes would not have the angle that the nikon remotes do that point the wire towards the left side of the body, but points the wire towards the bottom or preferably the top of the body that has more clearance in the horizontal orientation (I hope that makes sense!).
Gotcha. I've got an aftermarket remote from China (they're probably all more or less the same), and it comes off at an angle to the side, too -- with it, you still have to slide the plate down.
It the correct orientation, clamp lever at the front bubble level at the back, the MC-20/30 cord will interfere with the lever. You have two choices, turn the clamp around so the lever is at the back(if you don't need the bubble level) or loosen the L-plate screw and slide the plate to the left which will raise the body and give you enough clearance. Both options are not available if you have a motor driven body or battery pack added since there is no slot to slide the plate. If this is the case turn the clamp around and get yourself a hot shoe bubble level.
Smiert has already given you the correct answer (sliding the RRS L-plate), PBraymond, but if you want an alternate solution for this issue you could always look into the Kirk spacer block:
i'm not so sure that is the issue. i mean it is an option but maybe a less then necessary one. if he has the clamp lever in the front all he has to do is spin the whole clamp 180 and put the clamp in the back as in the picture. thus no additional action eliminates the issue. you just don't end up using the bubble on the clamp. oh well.
purchasing the riser block is not really an option as if you slide it up it should clear everything. and the RRS design again is better thought out if one was to get one. i'd purchase a bubble level before the riser block either way unless you are having additional wire issues.
Thanks everyopne for the information, using the lever clamp in the back is probably the simplest solution (old habits die hard after being used to the screw clamp when it would get in the way if it was behind the camera).
Sorry I've been AWOL from this thread, somehow I had the email notification for replies turned off.
