I know it`s an olden but I was going to shoot some film but decided against it and wanting to get back to where I was a few years ago took the opportunity to grab a mint boxed 10D.( I have a 5d2 thats my main camera) I just wanted something basic and old so as not to worry too much about. What I didn`t realise was my 10-22ef-s won`t fit on it and for the shots I`m planning I need a WA lens. BTW the 10D really feels much better made than the D30 and D60 that I used to have.
Questions
1. What should I look at that won`t break the bank but would give me something like the 10-22 coverage + I would need to identify what lenses are made for 1.6 crop because I don`t want to land up in the same boat. (I use MF lenses so would need something that can turn in the results or I`ll get upset and won`t use it :-)
2. What is the latest firmware for the 10D and where to get it from. The camera is showing 2.0.1.( Canon uk are not showing it)
3. Can I zero the file numbers in the camera?
4. There was a prog as I recall that I once downloaded that told me how many shots it had fired, any idea where to get it from.
Thanks for any help or advice, I`m an old dog(67) but I will learn new tricks given the chance
Sorry, I responded to you writing "what should I look at that won't break the bank but would give me something like 10-22 coverage".
Your best bet is still to sell the 10D for about what you paid for it, and get a 20D. A 20D won't break the bank.
You can modify the 10D to accept the 10-22 lens, but it is not worth the effort.
Get a 20D and a bar. Mount the two cameras together on the bar and slide from one side to the other. Merge the true colour and infrared image into one shot for something unique.
The Tokina 12-24 (version 1) is a real bargain and offers excellent IQ. Not quite as wide as the Canon 10-22 but you won't find a better combination of ultrawide, high IQ, and affordability (IMHO)
>>>You can modify the 10D to accept the 10-22 lens, but it is not worth the effort.
doesn't the effort consist of simply sticking your finger into the rear of the 10-22 and popping the back section out? that takes all of about 1 second, no tools.
I use the 10-22 on my IR converted 10d and it's perfect.
1) You might look for a used Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6. I owned one for quite a while, before I got their 12-24 for FF use. They also have a newer, fixed-aperture version, but new or used it will be more pricey.
2) You've got the latest firmware.
3) You can reset the file number to zero. Select File Numbering from the menu, then Auto Reset, rather than Continuous. Whenever you format the card, it will start from zero. I've never reset mine, and it's at 8972 clicks right now.
4) No way to get an accurate shutter count with third-party software.
FWIW, I still shoot with my 10D all the time, and I'll never sell it, even though I've also got a 1Ds2 and 1D2n. Some of my best prints are from the 10D, and as far as the xxD bodies go, I think the 10D had the best image quality until the 40D surpassed it. If you nail the exposure correctly, the 10D isn't as noisy as the 20D/30D, and it's got those rich, saturated colors from the older D30/D60 and newer 5D bodies. And, there's that lovely, muted shutter sound. Still a great camera, and worthy of the best glass you can afford.
dcains wrote:
1) You might look for a used Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6. I owned one for quite a while, before I got their 12-24 for FF use. They also have a newer, fixed-aperture version, but new or used it will be more pricey.
2) You've got the latest firmware.
3) You can reset the file number to zero. Select File Numbering from the menu, then Auto Reset, rather than Continuous. Whenever you format the card, it will start from zero. I've never reset mine, and it's at 8972 clicks right now.
4) No way to get an accurate shutter count with third-party software.
FWIW, I still shoot with my 10D all the time, and I'll never sell it, even though I've also got a 1Ds2 and 1D2n. Some of my best prints are from the 10D, and as far as the xxD bodies go, I think the 10D had the best image quality until the 40D surpassed it. If you nail the exposure correctly, the 10D isn't as noisy as the 20D/30D, and it's got those rich, saturated colors from the older D30/D60 and newer 5D bodies. And, there's that lovely, muted shutter sound. Still a great camera, and worthy of the best glass you can afford....Show more →
To be honest I went for the 10D because of the feel and as you say the lovely shutter sound. again, when I look back at my 20D shots before it was converted and although they were larger files the D60 files were IMHO just nicer and from the few images I shot this afternoon I am liking what I see from the 10D. It didn`t cost much and it`s very close to mint with all the gubbings and the original box. I purchased a battery grip and the whole thing feels like it`s ready for business.
gpop wrote:
>>>You can modify the 10D to accept the 10-22 lens, but it is not worth the effort.
doesn't the effort consist of simply sticking your finger into the rear of the 10-22 and popping the back section out? that takes all of about 1 second, no tools.
I use the 10-22 on my IR converted 10d and it's perfect.
omarlyn wrote:
The Tokina 12-24 (version 1) is a real bargain and offers excellent IQ. Not quite as wide as the Canon 10-22 but you won't find a better combination of ultrawide, high IQ, and affordability (IMHO)
HTH,
Omar
That might be just wide enough although eq of 16 on FF would be better
dave chilvers wrote:
Can you enlarge on that please?
Dave
the rear section of the 10-22 is not held in place by any screws or glue.
just stick your finger into the rear of the lens (zoom it as needed to place the rear element forward) and pop the rear section out. the electrical contacts will stay in place.
if this takes you more than 1 second, you're being too cautious.
Took the end cap out and yes the lens goes on now but at 10mm the back hits the mirror. I`m just looking at putting a wire in and around the inside as per the video to try to limit its travel.
dave chilvers wrote:
Took the end cap out and yes the lens goes on now but at 10mm the back hits the mirror. I`m just looking at putting a wire in and around the inside as per the video to try to limit its travel.
Haven`t got any spring wire but managed to trim a black cable tie to around the thickness required and the nature of the cable tie is that it is to a certain degree springy. The tie doesn`t lay tight all the way around the perimeter and of course if you look into the UV filter you can see part of the tie but it does work and goes back to around 11mm. It would save me laying out for another lens so just suck it and see what happens.I could fix the tie into the correct position with a touch of adhesive or even fix say 4 small blocks in position but that would commit the lens to a max WA of 11mm (which wouldn`t be the end of the world I suppose) I`ll see how the 10-22 performs on the 10D and then go from their me thinks.
The perfect solution would be a length of spring wire or an O ring to the correct diameter.
BTW all my MF contax and Leica lenses work fine and even the AF confirm of the adapters looks like it is kicking in at the right place as an assistance to manual focus.
My wife looks at me as if I`m crazy when I have the 5d2 + L lenses and MF lenses and I`m messing around with a 10 year old 6mega pixel relic but looking through some old hard drives this week and seeing the D30 and D60 (and even the old Nikon 990) images punch off of the screen got me going and besides I have got to have something to do now I`m retired
I don't have it handy, but I'd guess ~70mm?
it only needs to be large enough that it wont obscure the front element, and small enough to fit under the filter. mine just 'floats' in that area, it can be allowed to be very loose fit.
I had far more trouble finding one with a small enough cross section to take full (but not too full) advantage of getting the lens to the widest setting without the rear element fouling the mirror.
I did try a length of common insulated wire, and that worked just fine. but an o-ring can be stored on the lens body when not needed/wanted.
you could even cut a donut shape from some cardboard as long as it's thick enough.
edit: you could probably cut an old shoe lace and tape its ends together, or a section of cord from an old phone charger. I was temped to use cooked/dried spaghetti (perfect size), but figured the sauce would only cause problems down the road.
I ordered a length of 2.5mm O ring material and made my own to size.
I used the 10D today and the 10-22 sure is decent at 11mm in fact that lens really suited the 10D chip and looked more like an L lens IQ. I would rate it better than the 20D before I had it converted to IR.
How quickly we forget just how slow the write speed was on those older cameras
and for the shots I`m planning I need a WA lens. BTW the 10D really feels much better made than the D30 and D60 that I used to have.
