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Archive 2011 · Do I really need a Light Meter?

  
 
RustyBug
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p.3 #1 · p.3 #1 · Do I really need a Light Meter?


And I learned by shooting chromes ... i.e. zero lattitude (okay, maybe 1/3 stop under).

I'll use an incident light meter, a reflected spot, average weighted, center weighted, (handheld or in-camera) Sunny 16, Film Box, gray card, etc. Each one has it's place ... as does a histo & blinkies.

But when your metering device hides/consolidates endpoints from you as much as 3/4 - 2 stops, I just can't see how you can consider that as precise an approach as a meter that has .1 EV capability, particularly combined with today's lighting that also has .1 EV precision. I get that digital has more lattitude than chrome (so did negative) thanks to the magic of 1's and 0's ... but that still doesn't obviate good metering technique for placing your starting point relative to where you want to wind up ... or adjusting (or waiting for) your lighting to match your vision.

Oh well, those who meter will likely continue to do so ... and, those who fully trust their blinkies and histo's letting PS be their "safety net" will likely do the same. It can be kinda tough to teach "Old Dinosaurs" new tricks.

Although, I sure do wish they'd put RGB values in all camera's and show the full and accurate histo range.

Best to all.

Edited on Nov 21, 2011 at 05:57 PM · View previous versions



Nov 21, 2011 at 05:18 PM
BrianO
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p.3 #2 · p.3 #2 · Do I really need a Light Meter?


cgardner wrote:
Outdoor lighting is very predictable.


Not where I live.



Nov 21, 2011 at 05:55 PM
markymarc
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p.3 #3 · p.3 #3 · Do I really need a Light Meter?


In addition, is not the histogram based up on a jpeg view or in other words picture settings. The histogram is not based on the raw file right? You can manipulate the picture settings greatly and the raw file histogram is still the same. If that is true, then there are more reasons to rely on a meter.




Nov 21, 2011 at 06:29 PM
Peter Figen
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p.3 #4 · p.3 #4 · Do I really need a Light Meter?


Yes, the LCD histogram is based on the jpeg settings in the camera, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. The jpeg processing in most settings actually clips both ends slightly, making jpegs that are snappier than raws. This is great for snapshooters who don't have the patience or the skill to pull the most out of a raw file. As I've said multiple times in this thread, the fact that you get a bit more on the raw than shows on the histogram is good. If it were the opposite, you'd be forever cursing it for not showing you what you'd lost, but here it's not showing you something you can actually use - or choose not to. Best of both worlds.

And even in L.A. the outdoor lighting is not predictable. Even less so in Montana, where I'll be shooting in a couple of weeks.



Nov 21, 2011 at 09:41 PM
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