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| p.3 #2 · Do I really need a Light Meter? |
And I learned by shooting chromes ... i.e. zero lattitude (okay, maybe 1/3 stop under).
I'll use an incident light meter, a reflected spot, average weighted, center weighted, (handheld or in-camera) Sunny 16, Film Box, gray card, etc. Each one has it's place ... as does a histo & blinkies.
But when your metering device hides/consolidates endpoints from you as much as 3/4 - 2 stops, I just can't see how you can consider that as precise an approach as a meter that has .1 EV capability, particularly combined with today's lighting that also has .1 EV precision. I get that digital has more lattitude than chrome (so did negative) thanks to the magic of 1's and 0's ... but that still doesn't obviate good metering technique for placing your starting point relative to where you want to wind up ... or adjusting (or waiting for) your lighting to match your vision.
Oh well, those who meter will likely continue to do so ... and, those who fully trust their blinkies and histo's letting PS be their "safety net" will likely do the same. It can be kinda tough to teach "Old Dinosaurs" new tricks.
Although, I sure do wish they'd put RGB values in all camera's and show the full and accurate histo range.
Best to all.
Edited on Nov 21, 2011 at 10:57 PM · View previous versions