Hello FM'landers, just a quick question. Recently acquired a BALCAR A2400 flash generator with one flash head. Don't really know if this unit is functioning properly, it was made in FRANCE so idiosyncrasies are probably part of the score. When I plug the unit in, the flash tube indicator light (integrated into the top toggle switch-I'm assuming it's a ready indicator/dump switch) intermittently flashes on and then off, repeat. I have looked for a manual online but to no avail, so if any of you use this unit, please share with me the operating sequence so I don't continue to go in circles. I have read where the capacitors could need reforming but other than that not much information is available. Sincerely appreciate it. God bless.
Yes, I connected the head before switching 'on'. There is a selector switch that is marked A+B+C, SEP, A+B and so i switched it to A+B and the light in the toggle switch at the top comes on and then goes off, a tech at Calumet said that was normal as the unit recharges, I also get the model light to come on with it plugged into the 'A' channel, I just hate to replace a flash tube if it's not bad. All three lights for A, B, and C channels light up but when I switch the toggle to Sep, the light for A channel goes off. Any help you could give is appreciated. Is the orange rocker switch that lights up and then goes off, is that the 'test' switch or 'dump' switch?
The rocker switch is both a ready light and a test fire button. The flickering is normal. It is just the high voltage circuit continuously keeping the capacitors topped off as they lose charge. You should also be hearing the actual clicking of the circuit as it turns on and off. All normal. Remember that many other packs don't do this, so if you don't fire the flash for several minutes, that next flash will be significantly lower in power. This circuit guarantees that it will never fall more than about two percent without refilling the caps.
You NEVER want to toggle the A+B+C selector or the Variator control unless the pack is fully charged. You can fry that switch if you do. The little light next to the modeling light control indicates power in a specific channel.
The proper procedure for shutting down is to turn the pack to A+B+C, flip the main power switch (lower left) to OFF and then hit the rocker switch. That will dump any charge in the capacitors and make it safe to remove any flash heads.
If this pack has not been used regularly, you will need to form the caps. Turn the pack on with a head attached and leave it on for several hours. Then start firing the head with the Variator at full power and the pack on A+B+C, allowing ample time for full recycle. Normal recycle times for an A2400 are four seconds on fast recycle and full power. Significantly longer times indicate a capacitor problem but aren't necessarily worrisome. Capacitors are difficult if not impossible to come by these days. Since my first Balcar A2400 purchased new in March 1984, I can only remember having a single cap replaced in ten packs we have. I do have one pack that is "slow" but it still works fine for studio product work and can always be scavenged for parts when the time comes.
Balcar made great equipment - actually still does in Europe, but they are getting harder and harder to fix these days. You can order flash tubes online for far less than Calumet might sell them for. Good luck.
Peter, thanks so much for that very insightful response. There is no way that I know of to be able to test the flash tube to see if it's bad without having another pack but I believe based on what you are saying that the pack is operating properly. Do you have a source for these Balcar flashtubes that you prefer? I would also like to know, in my experience, when I turn the power switch to 'off', the channel lights stay lit and it doesn't look like a lot changes with the pack until I unplug the unit and let it sit for while, is that normal? After unplugging the unit, all the channel lights eventually go out. I may have to order a flash tube and see what happens, take a risk I guess. Also, how do you trigger the unit, there is the 'x' sync that i use a monolplug with some cheap chinese triggers but to no avail. The triggers work with my white lightnings and norman p2000d so I figured they would work with this unit as well. Again, thanks a million!
Is the head flashing when you fire it? If so it is good. Http://www.qualitycamera.com has some spare Balcar flash tubes and possibly some modeling lights and Pyrex shells ( they bought much of my Balcar gear.) Balcar made and still makes some great light modifiers - some are truly unique - Fortunately it fits on Zeus / White Lightning / Einstein / Alien Bee heads.
never ever connect or disconnect a Balcar head while the pack is turned on. Turn the pack off and push the test button a couple of times after turning the pack off.
Always make sure the head cable is very well seated in the pack before turning it on.
If you do manage to "arc" a head and pack don't use the head on another pack and don't use a new head on the arc'd pack. You'll run the risk of spreading the damage to the new head and pack. This is not only true for Balcar but all pack and head systems. I once watched a fellow teacher blow out three Profoto ringlights and four packs in a single session before we all figured out what was going on.
The Gray "A" series packs are newer than the blue ones and the square heads with three reflector holding prongs are newer than the ones with only two prongs.
Finally the t0.1 flash duration on your A2400 Balcar at full power to a single tube head is in the 1/200 to 1/300th second range.
Thanks E-Vener for that response, the pack is the newer gray one and the head is the newer more square version, I can get the modeling light to come up but the head doesn't flash no matter what channel I put it in. Thanks also for the cautions as well. I have a speedotron a1201 pack and when it is charged the orange 'ready' light comes on but on the balcar it sounds like a switch making and breaking and the orange 'toggle' light switch comes on and goes off but from other kind FM'ers this seems to be normal. Thanks for the heads up about quality cameras. I will contact them to see if they have any spares. I am truly humbled and appreciative for all the help I've received in this forum. Hopefully I will be able to repay in kind some day. Thanks to all.
Thanks Peter! From further examination of the flash head, isn't there a clear glass cylindrical dome that fits over the flash tube? There seems to be something sticking up from the interior of the flash head on the side of the flash tube, could it be part of the original dome? This would indicate to me that the head must have experienced some type of trauma, like a drop or fall. All signs point to a flash tube, also, do you know if you have to have this dome in place to fire the flash? Or does it just impact the signature of the light? Thanks!
Brian - That little wire sticking up is the trigger wire and it must be in contact with the very thin wire that wraps around the flash tube itself. If there is no contact, there is no flash. You can pull the Pyrex shell off, and it's much more difficult on the newer heads because of the way they're retained. I would then pull the flashtube out putting something over it and not your bare hands. It's possible that the flash tube has welded itself in but not likely. You also have to remove the flash tube in order to get at the modeling light as well. The flash tubes are perfectly clear when new and gradually get a white ghosting as they age. They will keep flashing for a long long time but with lower power output as they age, but they last a long time before burning out. If the flash tube shows any suspicious area like a severe darkening near the end or the other could very well indicate a new tube is in order. In any event, you're always going to want a spare flash tube on hand.
Thanks to you all for your great deal of help. I sent the A2400 off to Calumet in Chicago and Jeff got it up and running. It needed a few internal electronic parts (e.g., a triac etc.). Unit functions great! Thanks for you all taking time to respond! I hope 2012 is happy hunting for the perfect shot! God bless!
Also, how do you trigger the unit, there is the 'x' sync that i use a monolplug with some cheap chinese triggers but to no avail. The triggers work with my white lightnings and norman p2000d so I figured they would work with this unit as well. Again, thanks a million!