I took this photo using my relatively new Canon 10-22 lens on my 40 D . I am getting this odd shape which I am sure is some kind of reflection of the aperture blades. This is occuring in numerous pictures I have taken with this lens. Is this to be expected from this lens? Is this something I could fix using a lens hood?
Yes, that is lens flare, and yes, a lens hood could help. If the sun is not actually in your picture, the front element of the lens should be in shade. Even without a lens hood, you can often use your hand or a piece of paper to suitably shade the lens; just make sure it doesn't show up in the picture.
Yep, classic lens flare. The hood is pretty much a necessity with this lens. In fact, I don't believe I've ever even actually taken off my hood... With this shot, it may not have helped, seeing that the sun is just baaarely out of the frame. As mentioned above, using your hand works well.
Thanks for the replies and help. I guess I am going to have to see about ordering a lens hood then. I was a little concerned it might have been a flaw in the glass.
Not to hijack, but couldnt help but notice all the noise in the sky. I notice this stuff quite a bit when I shoot with my 40D at the sky with a high contrast item in the shot at any ISO, any ideas on how to avoid it? or compensate?
Seth Tower wrote:
Nope, the glass is fine. This is a pretty darn cool shot, by the way. Very unique perspective.
Thanks Seth, I have always marveled at the design of this building . I figured the 10-22 would be able to provide some wild perspectives of it and it certainly did.
Lens flare was much more prominent in older lenses, but thanks to the advances in anti-reflective coating on lenses flare is such a rare occurrance nowadays its not even recognized
It occurs when a light from a source near the lens axis enters the lens barrel, bounces off the aperture blades, then off the back of the lens elements. Since the aperture is wide open when focusing you may not see it in the viewfinder unless you use the DOF preview button. BTW if you check the individual channels in that image a second larger image of the aperture is more visible in the green channel than others. The double image indicates the flare bounced off two lens elements.
The problem with the 10-22mm used at 10mm is that the field of view is so wide a lens shade isn't very effective. The only solution to the problem is to not point the camera directly into the sun, or clone out the flare.
Yea thanks. I am going to try to keep this in mind in the future. I never knew that DOF button would assist in seeing a more representative view. That is good to know. Thanks
