I have a slight problem and am trying to come up with the best way to go here. I currently own the 400 f5.6L and the 70-200 f4 L. I am unable to handhold the 400 with anything that is acceptable. I use this lens only for occasional baseball games and College football games. Anything faster with IS is not in the budget so I am leaning towards giving up a little reach for some speed. I have the older 100-300 5.6L that is ok at the day games but not really useful at night (nor is the 400 5.6). I'm thinking of these options All w/ 40D:
1. Selling the 400 & the 70-200 and replacing with the 70-200 2.8 IS and 1.4 TC. I think the loss with this setup in IQ from the TC is not a biggie for my output needs (95% web based output). This option would need some cash from me after the sale of the 2 lenses as well I believe.
2. Selling off both lenses and replacing with the 70-300 f4.5-5.6 DO IS. Dunno much about this but the combo of IS with a much smaller lens should help my handholding
3. Selling the 400 and getting the 300 f4 IS & 1.4 TC. Again more money out of my pocket and I'm still at 5.6 with the TC. I have read posts that say the 300 & TC is easier than the 400 to handhold plus IS
Yes I will rent whatever option I come up with before I do anything but for now am trying to figure out which way to go. If I had the time to use the 400 more I am sure I would get better. Unfortunately I have the shakes and most places I bring this lens do not allow monopods or tripods. Thanks....John.
I know of many people who are afflicted with the shakes. So many that it surprises me. Young people at that.
One younger friend with the shakes uses the 70 - 200 mm 2.8 L - IS with great results - hand held. That is the way I would recommend to you and then you can use an extender.
Hi Chris, thanks for the quick reply. I thought of the 100-400 when I went with the 400. I believe form the one and only time I held the 100-400 that is is quite a monster when extended out to 400. With hand holding being an issue for me I did not include that, I just looked at Canons web site and they list the 100-400 as smaller that the 400 by a few inches. How far does it go out when at 400? I do not own an IS lens so I am not sure if I really need it or not. I know it does help in some instances and not in others. From what I read hand holding at a sporting event would be one of it's benefits. If that is not the case then I will have to re consider everything.
I've found that if I use the 70-300 DO or the 100 - 400 in low light situations I get softer photos. The best results from both are when the light is good.
I'm curious. I've never tried a camera shoulder stock. Might one allow grizz9 to use both his current lens and shoot sharp images? How does the increase in steadiness compare to having a lens with IS? (SS example: http://www.peterpeterpeter.com/pages/bushhawk.htm )
grizz9 wrote:
Hi Chris, thanks for the quick reply. I thought of the 100-400 when I went with the 400. I believe form the one and only time I held the 100-400 that is is quite a monster when extended out to 400. With hand holding being an issue for me I did not include that, I just looked at Canons web site and they list the 100-400 as smaller that the 400 by a few inches. How far does it go out when at 400? I do not own an IS lens so I am not sure if I really need it or not. I know it does help in some instances and not in others. From what I read hand holding at a sporting event would be one of it's benefits. If that is not the case then I will have to re consider everything....Show more →
I played with a 100-400 in a camera shop this weekend, am hoping to buy one in the next month, I found it surprisingly light, I was expecting a monster along the same lines as the 70-200 f/2.8, but, subjectively, in my hands, it felt a LOT lighter.
I've occasionally got horrible shake when using the 100-400 and the photos come out great - that's the marvel of IS. If you want somthing lighter and thinner (easier to handle) the 300 f4 IS is a great option. IS is the way to go.
Wow, AuntiPode, I don't think the Secret Service would like me to much on Opening day at the Nats game with one of those things . Actually I doubt I could get that into a game at any time. Very interesting device though. Sounds like I am hearing that IS will help me....
martines34 wrote:
I know of many people who are afflicted with the shakes. So many that it surprises me. Young people at that.
One younger friend with the shakes uses the 70 - 200 mm 2.8 L - IS with great results - hand held. That is the way I would recommend to you and then you can use an extender.
Maybe a result of all the Caffine they drink in their coffe/redbull/coke. I know that I get the shakes more after I've had a redbull.
Have you tried using a monopod? Does that help? With big lenses as well as supporting the weight of the lens you are actually bracing the lens as well.
In that case, I would go with the 300/4 IS and a 1.4x TC. If you are really concerned about IS and you are happy with the 70-200/4 IS then I wouldn't bother switching to a 2.8 IS.
I am happy with the 70-200 /4. It has some problems at night as well though. I do use that lens allot for other activities though and occasionally would like to have the faster IS glass. Also my needs for 400 are rather minimal. Other than the college games I most likely would not bring it out at all this year. Given that I am leaning towards the 70-200 2.8 is with TC. I have to hold one though cause if it is the beast I am hearing it is I would have to see if I can hold it. I think I am going to rent this lens and see. Luckily I have a local shop that has rentals. I did not here much love at all for the DO lens. I am reading from this that people like the 70-200's better
I really would not buy a lens expecting to use it with a TC nearly all the time. I use the 70-200/2.8 IS for alot of sport and motorsport stuff but IMO for anything moving quickly and in an unpredictable way, the 1.4 TC just dulls AF performance too much for my liking.
Have you looked critically at you camera and lens holding technique? A lot of camera shake problems can be mitigated by holding the camera carefully. Lens should be cradled in the left hand, some experimenting can help determine the best location. Some people do better with their shoulders parallel to the sensor plane, some people can do much better with perpendicular, where the side of your body may be able to support the upper portion of your arm.
The same techniques that work for gun target shooters also work for photographers. Control your breathing so that your breathing is smooth and continuous. For the ultimate, pause your breathing gently, midway on the exhale. Practice very smooth trigger/shutter control. Practice so you know exactly where and how much pressure actuates the shutter release, then practice shooting by pressing the shutter just up to that point prior to actually taking the shot. Trees, railings, seat backs, tables, your knees and even other people’s shoulders can all sometimes be used when available to minimize or dampen shake! Keep your eyes open.
Back in the days of film camera manuals all had sections on how to hold the camera and technique for minimizing camera shake. Today, with digital, these things are no-longer emphasized. Next time you see a group of SLR camera shooters note how many hold the camera using the two sides of the body, a technique sure to introduce camera shake with all but the smallest and lightest of lenses. As an added benefit, all these technique tricks are much less expensive than new lenses!
and most places I bring this lens do not allow monopods or tripods. Thanks....John.
. Thanks to gtogs and martines34 as well....