badlydrawnboy wrote: myron lee wrote:
It should just take 15-30 min to calibrate the sigma with the USB port. Yard stick, something to focus on (tilted and/or perpendicular) and your computer. I did it 3 times and all 3 times, I get the same MA adjustment numbers. I tried Dot Tune, but that method didn\'t produce good results for me.
With that said, my AF consistency is about 85-90%. Nothing far off like your pictures, just a tick off. Yes the 35L is better at AF consistency and slightly better in low low light.
I had two lens that had bad AF consistency. the sig 50 and the 50 1.4. Both I sent for service, both came back great.
I am using a 5diii.
Looks like a few here have sig35s with bad AF consistency issues. Not sure if its the lens or maybe it could be FoCal, since those using FoCal has the focus adjustment issues. I never used FoCal, so don\'t flame me, just putting it up on the table too.
Just curious how you\'re doing the MFA if not with FoCal or DotTune. Are you simply taking pictures at a number of different values and comparing the results? If so, how can that only take 15 minutes?
I did the process using TurboCal, which is FoCal\'s version of DotTune (that has worked well for me with my other lenses), and it still took well over 30 minutes to 1) do the initial calibration in camera at all 4 shooting distances, 2) enter those values into the lens and save, 3) test them out with the camera MFA set to zero.
In any event, I\'m getting somewhat better results after entering +18, +19, +18 and +15 into the lens. +15 was a guess on my part, as I couldn\'t get reliable results with FoCal or DotTune at infinity. It\'s still pretty inconsistent, though, so I\'m going to send it in to Sigma along with my 5DIII body.
When it hits it\'s an incredible lens, so I\'m going to give it one last try.
I have a piece of paper with type text all over it. I get a big black marker and draw a \"thick\" horizontal line in the middle of the paper for my focus point. Lay the paper flat on the floor. Grab a yard stick in one hand and touch the middle of the paper (focus point) with the end of the yard stick. Use my other hand, line up the back of the camera to the 12\",16 and\", 26\" distance, aim and shoot (about a 45 degree tilt). Adjust for each point. For infinity, shoot anything with a good contrast-y edge far away. 20 feet if that is as far as you can go in your house. Do it with Live view 10x and see if the infinity shoot is sharp like the live view shot. Adjust till sharpness match. Input the numbers via USB port software. Done. Go test it out like you did in your post.
PS. make sure you are aligned with the paper. tilting up and down is OK. Tilting in the right to left direction is NOT OK.
badlydrawnboy wrote: myron lee wrote:
It should just take 15-30 min to calibrate the sigma with the USB port. Yard stick, something to focus on (tilted and/or perpendicular) and your computer. I did it 3 times and all 3 times, I get the same MA adjustment numbers. I tried Dot Tune, but that method didn\'t produce good results for me.
With that said, my AF consistency is about 85-90%. Nothing far off like your pictures, just a tick off. Yes the 35L is better at AF consistency and slightly better in low low light.
I had two lens that had bad AF consistency. the sig 50 and the 50 1.4. Both I sent for service, both came back great.
I am using a 5diii.
Looks like a few here have sig35s with bad AF consistency issues. Not sure if its the lens or maybe it could be FoCal, since those using FoCal has the focus adjustment issues. I never used FoCal, so don\'t flame me, just putting it up on the table too.
Just curious how you\'re doing the MFA if not with FoCal or DotTune. Are you simply taking pictures at a number of different values and comparing the results? If so, how can that only take 15 minutes?
I did the process using TurboCal, which is FoCal\'s version of DotTune (that has worked well for me with my other lenses), and it still took well over 30 minutes to 1) do the initial calibration in camera at all 4 shooting distances, 2) enter those values into the lens and save, 3) test them out with the camera MFA set to zero.
In any event, I\'m getting somewhat better results after entering +18, +19, +18 and +15 into the lens. +15 was a guess on my part, as I couldn\'t get reliable results with FoCal or DotTune at infinity. It\'s still pretty inconsistent, though, so I\'m going to send it in to Sigma along with my 5DIII body.
When it hits it\'s an incredible lens, so I\'m going to give it one last try.
I have a piece of paper with type text all over it. I get a big black marker and draw a \"thick\" horizontal line in the middle of the paper for my focus point. Lay the paper flat on the floor. Grab a yard stick in one hand and touch the middle of the paper (focus point) with the yard stick Use my other hand, line up the back of the camera to the 12\",16 and\", 26\" distance, aim and shoot (about a 45 degree tilt). Adjust for each point. For infinity, shoot anything with a good contrast-y edge far away. 20 feet if that is as far as you can go in your house. Do it with Live view 10x and see if the infinity shoot is sharp like the live view shot. Adjust till sharpness match. Input the numbers via USB port software. Done. Go test it out like you did in your post.
PS. make sure you are aligned with the paper. tilting up and down is OK. Tilting in the right to left direction is NOT OK.
badlydrawnboy wrote: myron lee wrote:
It should just take 15-30 min to calibrate the sigma with the USB port. Yard stick, something to focus on (tilted and/or perpendicular) and your computer. I did it 3 times and all 3 times, I get the same MA adjustment numbers. I tried Dot Tune, but that method didn\'t produce good results for me.
With that said, my AF consistency is about 85-90%. Nothing far off like your pictures, just a tick off. Yes the 35L is better at AF consistency and slightly better in low low light.
I had two lens that had bad AF consistency. the sig 50 and the 50 1.4. Both I sent for service, both came back great.
I am using a 5diii.
Looks like a few here have sig35s with bad AF consistency issues. Not sure if its the lens or maybe it could be FoCal, since those using FoCal has the focus adjustment issues. I never used FoCal, so don\'t flame me, just putting it up on the table too.
Just curious how you\'re doing the MFA if not with FoCal or DotTune. Are you simply taking pictures at a number of different values and comparing the results? If so, how can that only take 15 minutes?
I did the process using TurboCal, which is FoCal\'s version of DotTune (that has worked well for me with my other lenses), and it still took well over 30 minutes to 1) do the initial calibration in camera at all 4 shooting distances, 2) enter those values into the lens and save, 3) test them out with the camera MFA set to zero.
In any event, I\'m getting somewhat better results after entering +18, +19, +18 and +15 into the lens. +15 was a guess on my part, as I couldn\'t get reliable results with FoCal or DotTune at infinity. It\'s still pretty inconsistent, though, so I\'m going to send it in to Sigma along with my 5DIII body.
When it hits it\'s an incredible lens, so I\'m going to give it one last try.
I have a piece of paper with type text all over it. I get a big black marker and draw a \"thick\" horizontal line in the middle of the paper for my focus point. Lay the paper flat on the floor. Grab a yard stick in one hand and touch the middle of the paper (focus point) Use my other hand, line up the back of the camera to the 12\",16 and\", 26\" distance, aim and shoot (about a 45 degree tilt). Adjust for each point. For infinity, shoot anything with a good contrast-y edge far away. 20 feet if that is as far as you can go in your house. Do it with Live view 10x and see if the infinity shoot is sharp like the live view shot. Adjust till sharpness match. Input the numbers via USB port software. Done. Go test it out like you did in your post.
PS. make sure you are aligned with the paper. tilting up and down is OK. Tilting in the right to left direction is NOT OK.
badlydrawnboy wrote: myron lee wrote:
It should just take 15-30 min to calibrate the sigma with the USB port. Yard stick, something to focus on (tilted and/or perpendicular) and your computer. I did it 3 times and all 3 times, I get the same MA adjustment numbers. I tried Dot Tune, but that method didn\'t produce good results for me.
With that said, my AF consistency is about 85-90%. Nothing far off like your pictures, just a tick off. Yes the 35L is better at AF consistency and slightly better in low low light.
I had two lens that had bad AF consistency. the sig 50 and the 50 1.4. Both I sent for service, both came back great.
I am using a 5diii.
Looks like a few here have sig35s with bad AF consistency issues. Not sure if its the lens or maybe it could be FoCal, since those using FoCal has the focus adjustment issues. I never used FoCal, so don\'t flame me, just putting it up on the table too.
Just curious how you\'re doing the MFA if not with FoCal or DotTune. Are you simply taking pictures at a number of different values and comparing the results? If so, how can that only take 15 minutes?
I did the process using TurboCal, which is FoCal\'s version of DotTune (that has worked well for me with my other lenses), and it still took well over 30 minutes to 1) do the initial calibration in camera at all 4 shooting distances, 2) enter those values into the lens and save, 3) test them out with the camera MFA set to zero.
In any event, I\'m getting somewhat better results after entering +18, +19, +18 and +15 into the lens. +15 was a guess on my part, as I couldn\'t get reliable results with FoCal or DotTune at infinity. It\'s still pretty inconsistent, though, so I\'m going to send it in to Sigma along with my 5DIII body.
When it hits it\'s an incredible lens, so I\'m going to give it one last try.
I have a piece of paper with type text all over it. I get a big black marker and draw a \"thick\" horizontal line in the middle of the paper for my focus point. Lay the paper flat on the floor. Grab a yard stick in one hand and touch the middle of the paper (focus point) Use my other hand, line up the back of the camera to the 12\",16 and\", 26\" distance, aim and shoot (about a 45 degree tilt). Adjust for each point. For infinity, shoot anything with a good contrast-y edge far away. 20 feet if that is as far as you can go in your house. Do it with Live view 10x and see if the infinity shoot is sharp like the live view shot. Adjust till sharpness match. Input the numbers via USB port software. Done. Go test it out like you did in your post.
PS. make sure you are aligned with the paper. tilting up and down is OK. Tilting in the right to left is NOT OK.
badlydrawnboy wrote: myron lee wrote:
It should just take 15-30 min to calibrate the sigma with the USB port. Yard stick, something to focus on (tilted and/or perpendicular) and your computer. I did it 3 times and all 3 times, I get the same MA adjustment numbers. I tried Dot Tune, but that method didn\'t produce good results for me.
With that said, my AF consistency is about 85-90%. Nothing far off like your pictures, just a tick off. Yes the 35L is better at AF consistency and slightly better in low low light.
I had two lens that had bad AF consistency. the sig 50 and the 50 1.4. Both I sent for service, both came back great.
I am using a 5diii.
Looks like a few here have sig35s with bad AF consistency issues. Not sure if its the lens or maybe it could be FoCal, since those using FoCal has the focus adjustment issues. I never used FoCal, so don\'t flame me, just putting it up on the table too.
Just curious how you\'re doing the MFA if not with FoCal or DotTune. Are you simply taking pictures at a number of different values and comparing the results? If so, how can that only take 15 minutes?
I did the process using TurboCal, which is FoCal\'s version of DotTune (that has worked well for me with my other lenses), and it still took well over 30 minutes to 1) do the initial calibration in camera at all 4 shooting distances, 2) enter those values into the lens and save, 3) test them out with the camera MFA set to zero.
In any event, I\'m getting somewhat better results after entering +18, +19, +18 and +15 into the lens. +15 was a guess on my part, as I couldn\'t get reliable results with FoCal or DotTune at infinity. It\'s still pretty inconsistent, though, so I\'m going to send it in to Sigma along with my 5DIII body.
When it hits it\'s an incredible lens, so I\'m going to give it one last try.
I have a piece of paper with type text all over it. I get a big black marker and draw a \"thick\" horizontal line in the middle of the paper for my focus point. Lay the paper flat on the floor. Grab a yard stick in one hand and touch the middle of the paper (focus point) Use my other hand, line up the back of the camera to the 12\",16 and\", 26\" distance, aim and shoot (about a 45 degree tilt). Adjust for each point. For infinity, shoot anything with a good contrast-y edge far away. 20 feet if that is as far as you can go in your house. Do it with Live view 10x and see if the infinity shoot is sharp like the live view shot. Adjust till sharpness match. Input the numbers via USB port software. Done. Go test it out like you did in your post.
Jun 23, 2013 at 04:42 PM
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