p.2 #1 · Canon EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS USM Sharpest Aperture
Canon's big whites don't need to be stopped down for sharpness.
They are all amazing wide open.
You only stop down for increased DOF or decreased shutter speed.
p.2 #2 · Canon EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS USM Sharpest Aperture
All lenses are theoretically sharpest at maximum aperture, and lose sharpness due to the effects of diffraction as soon as you begin stopping down. Cheaper lenses need to be stopped own to overcome various aberrations, which usually improves the image quality enough to offset the effects of diffraction until about f8.
High-quality lenses don't need to be stopped down to overcome these aberrations as most of them are corrected in the lens design.
p.2 #3 · Canon EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS USM Sharpest Aperture
fraga wrote:
Canon's big whites don't need to be stopped down for sharpness.
They are all amazing wide open.
You only stop down for increased DOF or decreased shutter speed.
That's why we pay the big bucks for them...
My 100-400 needs to be around f/8.0 before I really see the sharpness I'm after, but my 600mm is sharp wide open. White lenses are not all the same.
p.2 #4 · Canon EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS USM Sharpest Aperture
RazorTM wrote:
The 300 2.8 IS is definitely very sharp from f/2.8 to f/11, so it's really up to you how blurred you want your background to be. Shooting in a studio, you probably want things more in focus, so just set the lens to f/8 and leave it there unless you need to let some more light in.
But, would any of them really be that much sharper then a 70-200 f/4 IS when used at f/8, if it's for large DOF studio use only - then why bother?
If you need a shallow DOF lens that is extra sharp, you could also go with the 50 f/1.2L or 85 f/1.2L
Since your in the studio you can move close or far at will.
p.2 #6 · Canon EF 300mm f/2.8 L IS USM Sharpest Aperture
schristie11 wrote:
But, would any of them really be that much sharper then a 70-200 f/4 IS when used at f/8, if it's for large DOF studio use only - then why bother?
If you need a shallow DOF lens that is extra sharp, you could also go with the 50 f/1.2L or 85 f/1.2L
Since your in the studio you can move close or far at will.
I dont think many people realisticlly use any big teles in a studio, as you said, any L stopped down and using studio light will look good. And i cant see any reason why you would want the perspective of a 300mm lens
