You probably think that Oly 135/3.5 means I shot it with the Oly 135mm lens at f/3.5 ... but that was really 135 shots / 3.5 bottles of Olympia beer before I got one lucky one (or something like that).
Actually it only took one shot to get it ... after I warmed up with about 20 practice shots.
BTW ... I just ordered a new adapater for my OM (& C/Y) glass. Will be curious to see how much of a difference the upgrade makes ... WA's being a bit picky and all. Off to the Smokies this weekend ... Woo-Hoo.
What adapters do you (all FM'ers) use with your Oly's ??
Kent: Initially I was using a cheapo Kawaphoto (or something like that) adapter. Now I have a Big-Is adapter with EMF chip. The EMF works *much* better than the Dandelion chip I had my so-so DVD-Technik adapter on my Contax 50.
My new "Japan" 24mm f/2.8 should be here by then end of the week -- just in time for foliage! Will get another Big-Is for that, too.
I'm actually using the kawaphoto now, and it feels a bit loose. What makes the BigIS adapter better? Is it really that much of an improvement to have a focus chip?
rtallent wrote:
Kent: Initially I was using a cheapo Kawaphoto (or something like that) adapter. Now I have a Big-Is adapter with EMF chip. The EMF works *much* better than the Dandelion chip I had my so-so DVD-Technik adapter on my Contax 50.
I guess it's a matter of taste... I much prefer the Dandeloin chip. After a few programming steps (disabling the shutter release block function and calibrating the AF confirm point for front/back focus) I get better results with the Dandeloin than the EMF chip. I particularly couldn't live with the counter-ergonomic feature of the EMF chip that allows one to adjust aperture value from the camera, effectively resulting in over-exposure. Don't get me wrong; competition is always good, as well as the variety of available options.
blackbird3216 wrote:
I'm actually using the kawaphoto now, and it feels a bit loose. What makes the BigIS adapter better? Is it really that much of an improvement to have a focus chip?
I find the Big_is adapter fits better, not that the Kawaphoto adapter was bad, but the Big_is is snugger. I like the focus confirmation feature of the chip.
@Oleg: Maybe the Dandelion chip has been improved since I had mine. I am not aware that it was possible to disable the annoying feature of not being able to shoot unless the adapter sensed correct focus when I had one. Additionally, focus adjustment was not available to the best of my knowledge. On the EMF you can't set the aperture from the camera but you can tell the camera what aperture to record in EXIF, which I like. I also experience the overexposure problem, though. For that, I either expose manually or use AE exposure compensation. I also find using spot metering to be a big help. Thanks for the information. I may need to try a newer Dandelion!
rtester wrote:
Yes you do need either the bellows or the olympus auto macro tubes. This lens is made for the bellows but will work with the tubes-the tubes will let you get a little over 1:1. I like the tubes, they are very sturdy, easy to use and cool.
The lens actually does not have a focus ring.
One ring moves the aperture and the other is a pre-set ring.
The preset ring will just set which setting to stop at -which means that you can just focus at bright f4 and then just smoothly slide down to f11 without any clicks or movement. Of course as you can see if you keep turning with force when you hit the pre set both rings move.
As far as how to focus-what I generally do for hand held is set the focal length I want and then put the camera to my eye and move my body in and out on the subject and click when I get my focus. I have an af confirm chip set to beep so this helps me.
For tripod work,which is really what this is made for, I again set the focus length then muscle the legs to the closest focus and then gently move the legs, body, lens, or bellows, tube into the best focus. I use a macro rail as well, but you do have to develop a technique no matter what you are using. I have been through and have a few different macro lens and for me its pretty much all about getting down the technique of focus. Keepers with macro were pretty rare for me in the initial stage and I am now at something like 70% Hope this helps-enjoy....Show more →
I ordered mine without chips ... for now, since they are targeted for my landscape WA glass. Using my Nikon 20/2.8 AIS for close WA glass (Fotodiox pro w/chip).
Still deciding on my landscape WA glass, so I'll have Nikon, Oly & C/Y adapters (all three Fotodiox Pro) to continue my 'testing / deciding' about the landscape WA's. The trip to the Smokies should prove interesting.
With regard to Oly glass (universally applies, imo) finding / figuring out the processing recipe that brings out the most from each piece of glass can really vary. The Oly glass is beginning to remind me of the Mamiya glass in that you have to 'mine for gold' and 'treasure hunt' with your pp to find the really good stuff ... but when you do, NICE !!! I think if you want more immediate results, the Zeiss contrast makes it easier, but the tones of the Oly's seem to be more pp friendly (like the Mamiya's).
The first shot from 'alt does autumn' that Paul shot really reminds me of how rich the Oly's can really be (curious @ processing / camera settings).
28/3.5 or 24/2.8
