EB-1 wrote:
The metering is also not so good. You'll want a spotmeter with some lenses.
I've found the meter to be OK. It doesn't work like a modern SLR/DSLR meter -- it is much more basic, less "intelligent" and less convenient, so you have to look at what the meter is telling you differently. However, I've usually found it to be consistent with a hand meter that I would bring along. The thing to remember is that with the std and longer lenses the meter is like an averaging type, and with the wider lenses it is like a spot meter. If you're using the M7's meter you need to meter what you want in the scene (like you would with a hand meter) and then re-compose.
I was at Samy's Fairfax this morning and they did have a used Mamiya 7II with an 80 and two 150's in the case on the fourth floor. Did not check prices, but at least it's there for someone to haggle.
Don't buy new! Get good condition used (cosmetics are just that-cosmetics) and, if you must, send it to Mamiya for RF calibration. The Mk Is sell at a discount to the Mk IIs and, so far, I can't really see a difference except in the body color (I have Champange and Black Mk IIs and a Gray Mk I, Champange for Velvia and two speeds of B&W-convenient to know what body/film type I pick up).
I do agree that for 24x36," and below, either the 5D Mk II or the Mamiya 6x7 is fine for color. Velvia is, of course, saturated, hi contrast reversal film-people kill for that look. I use Velvia 100 as the grain is the same (better?) with ACR (after scanning) for the color look I want (not, necessarily, the Velvia pop).
However, if you like the "sharper edge look" you can get most of that too from film (try "Focus Magic") and then the files appear "sharper." The Mamiya is better for B&W as reported.
