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ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)

  
 
Makten
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p.61 #1 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


wayne seltzer wrote:
Makten, I like the foreground part of your car shot but not the ugly bokeh in the tree-skyline in the back.
If you like ugly bokeh like this, then definitely go for the 50/1.4 over the 50 MP.


First of all, I don't think there's a 35 mm SLR lens that would do it much better. And if it did, it would probably not have the same overall look, which is more important.
Since the car is drawing the viewers attention, the bokeh in the corners really isn't an issue at all. You'll only look there when "inspecting" images as a lens tester, or like people in this thread when they really really try to find a weak point of a splendid lens.



May 27, 2010 at 01:18 AM
Jochenb
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p.61 #2 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


freesole wrote:
Thanks, Adam for the insight I too, want to see some of your samples if you have any readily available. In particular, I would love to see any macro shots you have taken with you 50 MP. I am this close to making the purchase but I just want to be sure that it functions well as a macro lens


It functions great as a macro lens.

Just some more random close-up shots with the 50MP:








May 27, 2010 at 03:29 AM
adamdewilde
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p.61 #3 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Alright, went out today and took some photos for everybody. Since someone on here asked about the 50 MP ZE, I only shot with it. That and I believe I owe you some shots Samuli.
So with the 50 MP ZE, shot number 1 and 7 were f/2.5 only because the horse was active. The rest wide open f/2.

I tried to select photos which would show various types of bokeh within a given scene. Keep note, the rendering I love comes from photo number 1, where the horses eye is gleaming, and the background has some type of organic shifting to it.. Kinda like sloppy painting. I adjusted the colors/contrast to suite my taste.

Photo #3 (I call it horsefly) suffers from red/purple and green fringing on the metal.
These were all shot with natural light if you're wondering.

Well hope you enjoy:


















































May 27, 2010 at 10:41 AM
teh_rebel
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p.61 #4 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


charles, nice portraits!! i do like the 35mm for portraits, gives it a more personal feeling to it


May 27, 2010 at 11:24 AM
Jochenb
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p.61 #5 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Adam & charles: excellent!


May 27, 2010 at 11:28 AM
freesole
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p.61 #6 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


beautiful shots Adam! thanks for posting those up. you've convinced me. I just put an order in on the 50mm MP! Hope it works out!


May 27, 2010 at 12:16 PM
adamdewilde
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p.61 #7 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


The 50 MP ZE is a fantastic lens. I'm sure you'll enjoy it!


May 27, 2010 at 12:57 PM
denoir
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p.61 #8 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Very nice shots Charles and Adam!

21:







This last one surprised me. It was just a test shot for adjusting exposure but I thought the resulting depth in the image was interesting:




May 27, 2010 at 12:58 PM
Samuli Vahonen
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p.61 #9 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Charles, this first image is excellent presentation what ZE35 can do. Very very 3D rendering and the large DOF (seems that knees and hip are both in focus) this lens offers even at f/2 (assuming EXIF was showing correct info). I'm sure top right corner bokeh will be show stopper for some people.

charles.K wrote:
https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/47/437347.jpg










adamdewilde wrote:
Since someone on here asked about the 50 MP ZE, I only shot with it. That and I believe I owe you some shots Samuli.

Adam thanks - but you don't owe me anything - never - you did teach me the Live View trick to mitigate focus shift with lenses with electronic aperture - that changed my life and allows me to shoot handheld with 85ZE and 50ZE.

adamdewilde wrote:
Photo #3 (I call it horsefly) suffers from red/purple and green fringing on the metal.


Seems to be same as with 100Z* - it hits really badly if you photograph for example some black surface, which has white dust specs on it and you tilt the camera axis a little compared to the black flat surface - then dust specs in top of the photo may be magenta and in bottom green (depends of course how you are tilting the camera compared to the black surface). Dust specs are in the DOF but they are out of the properly corrected narrow band inside DOF. Bad thing is that this is not the normal CA, what you can remove with the software since it's not symmetrical around lens axis like normal CA. I have not been able to get this visible in any of my nature photos, but from time to time it comes visible when shooting something "human made" - one more reason for me to prefer 85ZE for "urban shooting". This looks so similar than the same thing in 100Z* that I should not have issues with this with my 50MP (should arrive Sat or Mon), as long as I don't shoot human made stuff with it.

Samuli



May 27, 2010 at 02:12 PM
Makten
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p.61 #10 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


So, I got the 50/1.4 Planar this afternoon. And I'm soooo in love with it. As everybody says, it really sucks at close distances and wide apertures, but for everything else, it beats any Nikkor 50 mm.

First shot, f/2.8:








Stopping it down gets you into 3D-land, here at f/7.1:








f/5.6:








Wide apertures gives very nice results, but only at fairly large distances. Here at f/1.4:








And stopped down again, to f/11:








--------------------

Someone said the IQ is "classy" or "elegant". I agree. But as Samuli have stated; this is not a lens that I will recommend. Its character will just not suit the majority of photographers, wanting a fast 50 mm lens.



May 27, 2010 at 03:43 PM
 


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philber
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p.61 #11 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Congratulations on your new lens, Makten! You seem to have made friends with it very quickly!


May 27, 2010 at 03:47 PM
Samuli Vahonen
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p.61 #12 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Makten, I kind of guessed you would like it. The wide open shot is surprisingly good, I have simply avoided shooting wide open, maybe I have to try it few times how it looks wide open from far distances.


Some ZE photos from forest, which is nature preservation are since it has not been not used for timber, "old forest", this is why it's much more thick, and there are a lot of fallen trees, which are rare in "industrial" forest:

Carl Zeiss Planar T* 1.4/85 @ f/2.2, 1/30s, ISO 100:



Carl Zeiss Planar T* 1.4/85 @ f/2.5, 1/30s, ISO 100:



Carl Zeiss Planar T* 1.4/85 @ f/2.5, 1/40s, ISO 100:



Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 2/35 @ f/4.5, 1/13s, ISO 100:



Carl Zeiss Distagon T* 2/35 @ f/8, 1/25s, ISO 100:



Samuli



May 27, 2010 at 04:00 PM
denoir
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p.61 #13 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Very nice Makten. The wide open picture looks great as do the f/7.1 and f/5.6. Did you apply any sharpening after resize?


May 27, 2010 at 04:01 PM
Makten
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p.61 #14 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Samuli Vahonen wrote:
Makten, I kind of guessed you would like it. The wide open shot is surprisingly good, I have simply avoided shooting wide open, maybe I have to try it few times how it looks wide open from far distances.


Don't be afraid! Interestingly enough, it gets better the farther away you focus, even at f/1.4.

Lovely shots of yours, as usual! The 3D is fantastic, but I'm even more impressed with the perfect bokeh.

denoir wrote:
Very nice Makten. The wide open picture looks great as do the f/7.1 and f/5.6. Did you apply any sharpening after resize?


Thanks! Of course I did. Sharpening before and after resizing is essential to get good looking pictures; especially at websize.

Here's one at f/1.4 at quite large distance:








And a 100% crop without sharpening, except for 25%, 1 pixel radius in ACR, which is close to nothing:








As you can see, the detail sharpness is low. But the local contrast is fine! And that makes the image pop.



May 27, 2010 at 04:12 PM
mortyb
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p.61 #15 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Samuli and Makten, these are all great shots.

Would you care to share your sharpening techniques/parameters? Are they different for each photo, or do you normally run a standard action? How about global vs. local sharpening after resize?

Thanks in advance - just trying to learn more about it



May 27, 2010 at 04:24 PM
RickPerry
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p.61 #16 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Makten -- Congratulations - it is a sweet lens.


May 27, 2010 at 04:26 PM
Makten
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p.61 #17 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


mortyb wrote:
Samuli and Makten, these are all great shots.

Would you care to share your sharpening techniques/parameters? Are they different for each photo, or do you normally run a standard action? How about global vs. local sharpening after resize?

Thanks in advance - just trying to learn more about it


Sure! I sharpen the images as little as possible in ACR; typically "25" amount and 1 pixel radius. Then I convert to LAB mode in PS, and sharpen the L channel with ~0.8 pixels and 200-300% depending on what lens is used. After resizing (bicubic) I sharpen again (only L channel) to ~0.2-0.3 pixels and 30-60%. The "more accurate" option is sometimes used, when the image is fairly smooth.

I guess Samuli has a much more complex and aggressive sharpening method, which demands more work. Mine isn't perfect, but works alright with good lenses.
With my Nikkors, I often use a larger radius to get better local contrast. But since the Zeiss lenses has that "naturally", you'll only have to care about the details.



May 27, 2010 at 04:47 PM
denoir
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p.61 #18 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Makten wrote:
Thanks! Of course I did. Sharpening before and after resizing is essential to get good looking pictures; especially at websize.


I know. I wasn't sure though if they were plain shots or PP:d

By the way, thank you for the description of your sharpening method. I have to try it out. I'm typically lazy and just use (on occasion) sharpening in Lightroom (pre-resize) and then LR's export sharpener after resize (always). Not perfect but it spares me the need to go to PS.

Edit: Hmm, I've tried it and while your method is clearly superior to the LR standard for most of the image, I'm getting some fairly nasty aliasing problems with straight lines. Oddly enough it seems to be the PS resize function. I've tried both standard bicubic and sharper bicubic, but the results are the same:





Edited on May 27, 2010 at 05:22 PM · View previous versions



May 27, 2010 at 05:04 PM
mortyb
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p.61 #19 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


Makten wrote:
Sure! I sharpen the images as little as possible in ACR; typically "25" amount and 1 pixel radius. Then I convert to LAB mode in PS, and sharpen the L channel with ~0.8 pixels and 200-300% depending on what lens is used. After resizing (bicubic) I sharpen again (only L channel) to ~0.2-0.3 pixels and 30-60%. The "more accurate" option is sometimes used, when the image is fairly smooth.

I guess Samuli has a much more complex and aggressive sharpening method, which demands more work. Mine isn't perfect, but works alright with good lenses.
With my Nikkors, I often use a
...Show more

Thanks for the input, Makten. I normally use a variation of this sharpening technique and have been quite happy with the results. Sometimes the final "bite" is missing, or it gets too agressive. I'll do some experimenting with your method. Thanks again!



May 27, 2010 at 05:18 PM
Samuli Vahonen
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p.61 #20 · ZE/ZF/ZM Images (Official Thread!)


mortyb wrote:
Samuli and Makten, these are all great shots.

Would you care to share your sharpening techniques/parameters? Are they different for each photo, or do you normally run a standard action? How about global vs. local sharpening after resize?

Thanks in advance - just trying to learn more about it


Mortyb, I really hate sitting on computer and doing photos. Therefore I have got really fast and powerful computer, and I automate everything possible. My process for web is described below and after adjusting the image in Apple Aperture I spend usually 10-15 seconds for each image for resizing and sharpening:
1. I adjust photo in Apple Aperture (white balance, recovery, black point, saturation, highlights - these are the sliders I use, I have of course presets, which I apply to all photos by default and sometimes I do some small adjustments to the values what preset gave)
2. export from Apple Aperture to 16-bit TIFF (preferrably some gamma 1.0 colorspace e.g. CIE 1931 D65, or just standard ProPhotoRGB)
3. right click image in Finder (equivalent of Windows Explorer)
4. open with -> "script name" (I have about 25+ scripts, which I have saved from PhotoShop so that they can be used as "open with" actions)
5. script resizes & sharpens the image and adds logo to corner ("which corner" is identified in the script name
6. script flattens image, converts to sRGB and saves JPG
7. I evaluate the image in Finder, if it's OK then I continue from step 8, if it's not OK I delete the file and start from step 3 but use different script (or do everything manually in Photoshop if I doubt any existing script would do no good)
8. I run other script, which removes PhotoShop thumbnail etc. from image making it about 50kb smaller




The method I use for resizing and sharpening in the scripts is step sharpening. In it image size is reduced many times and each time image is sharpened. Many of my scripts don't actually at all touch the image, when it's in final size, all sharpening happens during resizing in those scripts. Many of the images with fine detail cannot be just simply resized to end product size and then sharpened, because the fine and small detail gets lost. Also methods doing sharpening only when image is resized to final size tend to sharpen the bokeh too much, making apparent DOF even larger (like resizing to web size would not make it large enough...).

From time to time I find an image, which is not suitable for any of my scripts. Then I typically do it manually, either by tweaking one of my scripts or doing it completely manually. Sometimes I find better way of doing some step in the process, and then I improve the process, so it's on constant change.


Regarding the actual sharpening, once somebody asked about it and I made an document about the methods. However document just shows two old scripts, which I highly doubt that are anymore in use and and they should be used just as reference. This is an area where one needs to experiment a little, and on sharpening definitely don't fit to all lenses and all photos, also cameras make quite difference. Link to the document.


Do you refer with "local sharpening" to "selective sharpening"? I don't have time for that, specially for web images I could not justify the time spend on doing it. For printing sometimes it just needs to be done, then I do it, but at same time hate doing it...

And like Makten says with Zeiss there rarely is need to do any local contrast tricks, which were in everyday use with Canon's.

Samuli

PS. I think my sharpening method is based on the sharpening method you linked to in Landscape forum. But I'm not sure was it that thread or some other thread.



May 27, 2010 at 05:24 PM
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