I think I'm going to start posting pictures this size from now on. I'm guessing that most people here have large monitors and that 1200px width should not be a problem.
I have a ZM 28 biogon. Bought it used and its from 2008.
The focusring and the front element (the metal part where the hood is attaced to) have some play in it.
All my other lenses (including another ZM) did not had this play.
Can this be fixed? And how much would it cost??
rji2goleez - Great night shots! I love the last one from the first series.. The color and volume of concrete structure is very strong in that picture. Second series is great. Very dynamic and yet quiet.
Donuss - Great shots with ZF18 !! Oh I miss the ocean !
Martynas - Beautiful color from 100 mp. I like the last 4 pics of the first set
Denoir - Beautiful !! Gorgeous color on the last one with Ze21.Love the composition - foliage foreground on the left, diagonal shoreline, with the beautiful reflection of sky on the water and the sky.
Cmd-Minus, so, now I can see it again Except now I am using Safari's downressing instead of your carefully optimized path, and the high degree of sharpness is no longer there.
I own a 30" monitor, but tend to read forums on my MacBook Pro or a 19" screen at work with 1280x1024 resolution, and since all images start about 150-200 pixels from the left edge, and you have a fairly fat border, it means that I see only about the left 3/4 of the image, unless I scroll (which makes reading further on the same page annoying). I guess I will just use Cmd-Minus for now...
Luka - re your last shot of the boats moored at sunrise/sunset, I know you eschew using filters - what do you do to contain the dynamic range? Are you blending exposures in some circumstances, or are you locally manipulating the exposure in RAW development? I only ask as when I take sunrise/sunset photos, I normally cannot achieve a balanced exposure without blending (I don't have a set of GNDs), as the dynamic range between sky and water reflections is too wide...
Robert (Bijltje): Ask in the Leica thread - there are not many ZM shooters here.
Bob: Thanks! Great shots of the bridges. Love the compositions. I must admit I have a thing for the 21 + concrete + arcs
Akul: Thanks!
Carsten: Hmm. Not good. Does anybody else have trouble looking at the full images?
James: Typically the water/sky reflection difference in exposure depends on the time of day that you shoot. I actually don't know how to do exposure blending - except automated HDR which I don't like, so I have not tried it. One tool that I used extensively for a while (with my Canon 16-35 before I got into the whole Zeiss thing) was digital GNDs in Lightroom. I got bored of the effect though and I don't really use it any more. Recently I've only used it with some of my Leica X1 shots as it lacks the dynamic range of the 5DII.
denoir wrote:
James: Typically the water/sky reflection difference in exposure depends on the time of day that you shoot. I actually don't know how to do exposure blending - except automated HDR which I don't like, so I have not tried it. One tool that I used extensively for a while (with my Canon 16-35 before I got into the whole Zeiss thing) was digital GNDs in Lightroom. I got bored of the effect though and I don't really use it any more. Recently I've only used it with some of my Leica X1 shots as it lacks the dynamic range of the 5DII. ...Show more →
Luka, thanks, I did suspect you might just be catching just the perfect fleeting moment in such shots, but I wanted to confirm you weren't doing anything I wasn't aware of.
Re exposure blending, I do it a bit since I don't have GNDs - just a matter of layer masking bracketed exposures, if you're ever curious in playing with the technique (and not that you need to!) this is a good general guide.. Primarily just layer masking in PS with brushes of varying opacity. I'm still not very good at it though
Yes, I'm sort of unsophisticated when it comes to those things Thanks for the link! I have actually been meaning to learn some PS techniques. I've ordered a book on color correction in PS so if I get some time I'll try to learn a bit PP.
Luka,
Not that you need to massage your images in PS, but I have found the book, The Creative Digital Darkroom by Katrin Eismann and Sean Duggan to be exceptional. It walks you through thinking about and working with images from a photographer's point of view rather than that of PS for the sake of using PS. They also emphasize nuance over sledge hammer editing.
JimboinTas wrote:
Luka, thanks, I did suspect you might just be catching just the perfect fleeting moment in such shots, but I wanted to confirm you weren't doing anything I wasn't aware of.
Re exposure blending, I do it a bit since I don't have GNDs - just a matter of layer masking bracketed exposures, if you're ever curious in playing with the technique (and not that you need to!) this is a good general guide.. Primarily just layer masking in PS with brushes of varying opacity. I'm still not very good at it though
Exposure blending doesn't have to be complicated at all. The only thing that can get tricky is to get a clean, undetectable transition between the exposures.
Since the GND tool has been added to Lightroom I use that on occasion. I find that it works well and don't consider it an effect filter that you can get bored with; it's a tool that you have full control over and whether the effect bores you depends on the way you use it.
I really don't like that burnt out, oversaturated look in sunsets/rises. Clipped channels make me too much aware that I'm looking at a digital image. A single shot can have enough DR to develop it with two different exposures, which can be blended in PS or apps like Photomatix. The GND tool in Lightroom makes some of that obsolete though.
Btw, I've never seen this used at FM: http://www.guillermoluijk.com/article/nonoise/index_en.htm
This is exposure blending to remove noise from the shadows and maximize the amount of data through all "zones" of a shot. No tonemapping involved to change the DR. I imagine this can really do miracles for big prints. I think camera's should have a function like this built in.
CZ 100mm MP @ F2
