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 p.1 #5 · OA: JrX Cube and Cables | |
04749s told me he had a few Nikon strobes and asked me what to get. So I wrote a long reply about what I think the strengths and weaknesses of the RP JrX system are. (I enjoy giving long, thorough answers - ask my kids or former high school science students). So here are the issues I see with the JrX:
First, I need to warn you that the JrX transmitter does not fit well on the D700 or any Nikon DSLR with a pop-up flash. (Picture here, and apparently doesn't fit too well on a D2H either. A D3 user told me he has no problem. https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/822094/0?keyword=jrx#7619166 ). There is a button antenna on the bottom that rubs against the popup. If it bothers you, you could probably raise the transmitter with this: http://www.mpex.com/browse.cfm/4,12111.html It's a simple pass-through without the additional TTL contacts, but that's all that's needed for the JrX transmitter.
Second, the JrX fits with a trial-and-error workflow where you have time to experiment with different outputs before you lock in the settings by disabling the knobs with the flip of a dip switch.
Good for studio or maybe a series of similar group posed shots, but not good for situations where you have one chance, or at best one chance to shoot a bracketed set.
If you like to work very precisely with a light meter, you can set up the transmitter to turn off each group at the lowest knob setting, then trigger one group at a time with the transmitter off camera (or mounted on a camera) to get a meter reading. Holding the transmitter and a meter in your subject's position you could literally dial in the output of each group without moving. Or if you are using a PX transmitter you could click in precise outputs.
Great if you mix different brands of TTL speedlights, or mix with studio lights like AlienBees. But to use the remote adjustable output feature with Canon or other brands of speedlights you'll need to wait for the appropriate RPCube from RadioPopper or make your own from appropriate brand hotshoe accessories. The RP Studio receiver comes with a good assortment of cables and adapters for many studio lights (but no PC sync cable!!).
I could also see the JrX coming in handy in a situation where your strobe is set up pretty far away, like some sports shooting or PJ situations. Then you could make small adjustments in output from a distance. Range and reliability were excellent with my set. If you are concerned about signal reception you could get a long cable and mount the receiver away from the strobe. You don't need line-of-sight, but what if your strobe had to be inside of a metal box?
Third, the knobs on the JrX do not have detents. So if you want repeatability you'll need to mark them to match the outputs on your strobes. The knobs are pretty tiny, so you may need to experiment to find a marking system that works for you. RadioPopper does not explicitly claim that fractional EV adjustments are possible with the dials. One person on another forum told me he has measured fractional changes with his light meter. I suppose that with enough practice and good markings, one could get comfortable with adjusting them in more hectic situations. If you have a PX transmitter, RadioPopper claims the JrX STUDIO receivers can be controlled to fire in 32 distinct EV increments (see the compatability guide now linked in the top post).
I finally decided Nikon i-TTL/CLS was what I needed, so I returned my JrX's, traded my SB-26's for a SB-800, and bought a new SB-900. I'm sure there will be times I miss the range and flexibility of wireless radio triggers, and the straightforward set-up and operation of the JrX Studio system. But I don't shoot in a studio, and for at least 90% of the shooting situations where I need flash, CLS is better, and I can make do with CLS for the other 10%. And besides, I prefer natural light whenever possible. But that's just me.
So if the JrX fits your shooting style, or if radio triggers are essential for you, I think they are great (except the transmitter fit problem on some Nikons - which they really need to address in their next production run).
I may have made you more interested or less interested, but hopefully more informed. If you go ahead with the JrX Studio system, whether to get cables or cubes depends partly on whether you already have a means to attach your SB's to light stands (if not, you might as well get cubes), and whether you think you'll need to move the receiver away from the strobe for better reception (in which case a cable might be better, and you could contact me about longer cables). And remember the SB600 will only work with a cube since it has no plug for a TTL cable.
Edited on Feb 20, 2010 at 10:22 AM · View previous versions
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