Going for a TS-E but I'm not sure if 17 or 24. I don't look at the price difference at all.
As I'm a landscaper @ 50% and buildings like temples churches @ 30% and the rest is people, street etc.
For the landscapes I'm happy so far with 24mm (24-70 on 5DMII) not so happy with 24mm for buildings and temples inside.
For my landscapes I really like to use ND and Pol filters and that is what I worry about with the 17.
On the other hand the 24mm is actually wider on FF by shifting left and right.
What to do??
Thanks for your input
Perhaps use the TSE17 for indoor only? Though that does seem like a waste of money.
Wasn't there a thread about some custom filters being made for the 17? I've only used my 17 in a bright condition and at night so I haven't really needed those filters. Love it for building, even if I only have a crop body.
The 24mm TS-E II with its 82mm front threads will work with a polarizer and with a Lee filter holder for graduated ND filters. That is a big plus, and I also use a polarizer quite a lot. The 17mm TS-E has no front threads and no direct way to mount a filter, and for handholding, you run the risk of laying the filter againist the surface of the front element, which I want to avoid.
A tilt shift lens allows you to set your photo up better to begin with, and you thus have less need to crop a little later, or correct for distortion and then crop. So you really get the full angle of view put to use. The 24 TS-E also gives you great image quality in the corners, even with your full frame camera, so that is another way you are really making full use of the lens field of view. And your live view allows critical focus evaluation at any part of the image, included tilted. You can even see foucs with depth of field preview while stopped down a long way, which is almost impossible through the viewfinder in outdoor field conditions.
I started with the 17 TS-E, and really like it. I decided to add a 24 TS-E II, and only have a few shots taken with it so far, but it looks very nice also. I guess I would suggest starting with the 24, and discover all the special things that a TS-E lens can give you, and later if you really feel the need, add a 17 also.
n0b0 wrote:
Perhaps use the TSE17 for indoor only? Though that does seem like a waste of money.
Wasn't there a thread about some custom filters being made for the 17? I've only used my 17 in a bright condition and at night so I haven't really needed those filters. Love it for building, even if I only have a crop body.
If I only could find a solution for the filters on the 17 I would go for it
Shift calculator says at max. 12mm shift on a full frame, you get 120.9° horizontal and 109.4° vertical angle of view. You will need to make a custom holder + slot filter big enough to cover that. You can try asking Lee or Singh Ray but if they can accomodate your request, it will be expensive... and probably quite large.
Roland W wrote:
A tilt shift lens allows you to set your photo up better to begin with, and you thus have less need to crop a little later, or correct for distortion and then crop. So you really get the full angle of view put to use.
The 24 TS-E also gives you great image quality in the corners, even with your full frame camera, so that is another way you are really making full use of the lens field of view. And your live view allows critical focus evaluation at any part of the image, included tilted. You can even see foucs with depth of field preview while stopped down a long way, which is almost impossible through the viewfinder in outdoor field conditions.
I started with the 17 TS-E, and really like it. I decided to add a 24 TS-E II, and only have a few shots taken with it so far, but it looks very nice also. I guess I would suggest starting with the 24, and discover all the special things that a TS-E lens can give you, and later if you really feel the need, add a 17 also....Show more →
Thanks Roland, I studied already your previous posts carefully.
That's all fine but for landscapes it's often about the DR (Sky too bright) and that's why I do the filters
No need to get familiar with a shift lens, I did it long ago with Zoerk Adapter on FD lenses.
n0b0 wrote:
Shift calculator says at max. 12mm shift on a full frame, you get 120.9° horizontal and 109.4° vertical angle of view. You will need to make a custom holder + slot filter big enough to cover that. You can try asking Lee or Singh Ray but if they can accomodate your request, it will be expensive... and probably quite large.
Yes, thanks. That solution seems too difficult. Isn't there any landscaper wrestling with the DR (Sky) working with the 17mm?
Anyway, back to the topic. When you said "not so happy with 24mm for buildings and temples inside", did you mean TSE-24 or just a normal 24mm lens? If it's just a normal 24mm lens, I think you should be happy with the TSE-24. That TSE-17 on my crop body makes it a TSE-28 and it's plenty wide for me. If not, I just pull out my fisheye.
Here's the link to the calculator, just scroll to the bottom.
I have both. I fin the 17mm angle more interesting, the 24mm angle more practical, and the ability to attach filters to the 24 is the main reason why I got it (as otherwise the 17 with a TC doesn't suck either).
stanj wrote:
I have both. I fin the 17mm angle more interesting, the 24mm angle more practical, and the ability to attach filters to the 24 is the main reason why I got it (as otherwise the 17 with a TC doesn't suck either).
Jesus Christ, not both...
Going to sleep now. It is after midnight here in Thailand. Be back in 6 hours.
My primary interest was for landscape and I decided to go with the 24. The ability to use filters is the major difference between the two. The 24 is an absolute optical masterpiece as well! It is sharp across the whole frame which is also important for shooting landscapes. The 17 is interesting to me but, just more suited to doing architectural and interior work. Typically you need extreme wide angles for landscape work. Besides, if you need wider you can always stitch.
dancam wrote:
My primary interest was for landscape and I decided to go with the 24. The ability to use filters is the major difference between the two. The 24 is an absolute optical masterpiece as well! It is sharp across the whole frame which is also important for shooting landscapes. The 17 is interesting to me but, just more suited to doing architectural and interior work. Typically you need extreme wide angles for landscape work. Besides, if you need wider you can always stitch.
Daniel, you mean..' you don't need extreme wide angles...
Thanks for your input
Two more questions:
1. How you manage moving subjects during shifting? How long does it take to shift from one side to the other, up or down. Or is it wise using only for static subjects.
2. How you do exposure bracketing, lets say one for the sky one for the other parts in order to blend or HDR.
Thanks
Hans
1) I don't worry about it. For stitching, I use AutoPano Pro, which deals very well with moving subjects - never been an issue. It takes only a few seconds to shift from one extreme to another.
2) I find the middle exposure, set the camera on AEB (3, 5 or 7 frames) and press the trigger - the rest is automatic (either with 2s timer or with the wired remote, all frames get triggered by a single button press). But I don't do HDR, I hate the look - when I use bracketing it's either because the light is changing too much too quickly, or I have a very very unique shot in front of me and I want to make sure I don't blow the exposure, so I regard it as a sort of insurance.
