I did some comparisons with another 7D body using the same lens swapped between the two, which was the 70-200 2.8 L IS. My images were noticably softer as well as some images appearing completely out of focus despite shutter speeds in excess of 500 shooting a static scene.
We then set up a controlled test with the same lens shooting wide open from a tripod (lens mounted to tripod). We shot the same scene, same settings, switching bodies for the test. Mine would not focus precisely even after micro adjustment. The other body would nail the focus and maintain that focus when half pressing again to refocus. On the other hand mine would rarely nail the focus and when it did get close, half pressing again would result in worse focus.
We then tried manual focus at 10X live view to get precise focus on each body. After getting this focus we would half press to see how well the camera focused. The good body maintained the focus while my body would adjust, signal focus achieved but would be out of focus.
So I feel better a little better about the situation and just hope Canon takes care fo the issue. The body is being dropped off at the Canon Service Center tomorrow. If they report back that no issues were found then I will most definitely not be happy.
Why are some suggesting he send the camera in? The image says on the left "what is sharp", which means that the lens is capable of being sharp, it just so happens to be in front of the intended focus area. Why aren't we suggesting a micro adjust?
I'll tell you what, when your camera comes back and the issue still persists (and assuming your lens is out of warranty), I'll buy your 24-105 for the going FM rate minus the 150 calibration costs, how's that sound? And when your next 24-105 doesn't work out of the box either, I'll take that one too.
Well, I haven't sent in the camera yet. But I did play with the combo today and the 24-105 is still extremely poor at the highest of shutter speeds, center point AF only. The 15-85 is o.k. to good. Didn't shoot with the 24L today. Should I try micro AF on the 24-105? Or does that look too out of range to correct? I don't know the capabilities of MA since I have never had a camera with it before.
I adjusted a couple lenses with my 50D, I don't remember exactly how I did it, but it was fairly intuitive. You can only adjust + or -, and you'll notice it going the right way or the wrong way, and then adjust as necessary. Basically, if you have any part of the photo that's sharp, you should try the micro adjust. If nothing is sharp at any depth, then I would send the lens in. If the body works great with other lenses, I wouldn't send it in.
Start with the manual, it probably explains decently how to make some adjustments.
24-105 is waaaaay off
15-85 isn't great, but close
24L is spot on
50 macro seems spot on, too
18-55 kit is front focusing moderatly
so this leads me to believe its a lens problem for the moment? Just that the results for the 24-105 were so scarily off. Yet on the 5DI they are excellent and focus seems dead on.
Anyone here have the 7D grip? I haven't put many clicks on my 7D yet, but I noticed the shutter on the grip is quite a bit more sensitive than the one on the body.
Thom Briggs wrote:
Anyone here have the 7D grip? I haven't put many clicks on my 7D yet, but I noticed the shutter on the grip is quite a bit more sensitive than the one on the body.
Thom
+1, feeling the exact same thing, very easy to misfire if not careful. but as long as you get used to it, it is fine.
Well that sucks, a squeaky door and a hypersensitive shutter on the grip...bogus! I always had to disable the shutter button on the grip when not in use because I couldn't keep my mitts off it accidentally, so I suppose it's not too big of a deal. What part of it is sensitive? Not enough resistance at the second stage?
corndog wrote:
Not enough resistance at the second stage?
Yup. Almost like there's no 2nd stage.
I couldn't have my unit replaced for fear I might get a lemon for an exchange. Mine seems to perform great. (I'm referring to the 7D, not the batt grip.)
I've spoken to a couple of dealers asking if they'd had any issues with the 7D. Pictureline in town here said they had sold several hundred of them to have only ONE come back. Another location denied ever have ONE issue with any they had sold. I come here and it would seem as if dozens have issues. It's enough to scare me off. I'm not sure who to believe
I can see how the noise/mazing issue would throw some folks off, leading to returned cameras. Other than that though, I haven't seen many well founded complaints. The grip shutter button and squeaky cf door are not deal breakers for most folks, and the cf door thing is not likely a common one. I didn't let all the wild reviews prevent me from buying one.
corndog wrote:
I can see how the noise/mazing issue would throw some folks off, leading to returned cameras. Other than that though, I haven't seen many well founded complaints. The grip shutter button and squeaky cf door are not deal breakers for most folks, and the cf door thing is not likely a common one. I didn't let all the wild reviews prevent me from buying one.
EXACTLY!
It's in this thread/forum that finally sealed the deal for me to buy one (unlike in other forums). So I thank all the guys here for their contribution...
The 7D arrived this evening, charging the battery now. Shutter button feels like strange, what's up with that? A little Googleing reveals this is normal, so I'm happy about that. I'm sure I'll get used to it, but I wonder why they changed it. Perhaps the positive button feel in the second stage causes the camera to move? The mushy button makes the camera move less while shooting?
corndog wrote:
The 7D arrived this evening, charging the battery now. Shutter button feels like strange, what's up with that? A little Googleing reveals this is normal, so I'm happy about that. I'm sure I'll get used to it, but I wonder why they changed it. Perhaps the positive button feel in the second stage causes the camera to move? The mushy button makes the camera move less while shooting?
Exactly my first impression too Thought the shutter button was broken until I read it is the same as what is used in the 1-series cams. I speculated that the high shooting speeds require a shutter release button less prone to falsing. I could be full of it though.
The second thing I noticed was that the SET button spins, and I thought that was an issue until I noticed the same in the product shots online.
Funny how those were my initial thoughts. I've come to like the new shutter release.
That's too funny, I was just thinking it was kind of cheesy that the set button spins! The battery is charged, and I'm taking some test shots. My 100/2 required +20 on the MA, but this lens and I have history...
headroom wrote:
Simply dont use Auto AF select, all Canons do this with the Setting Auto....
They do? Unless he recomposed after focusing, there is simply no reason that the camera should have focused on (or near) the tree in the foreground, based upon the camera's selection of AF points. There's no reason that letting the camera choose AF points cannot work properly for many subjects, but it's the photographer's responsibility to know when it will/won't work for a given subject.
My 7D is doing this exact thing with the 15-85 (i.e. front-focusing pretty horribly), but is a bit more consistent with the 24-70/2.8L and 70-200/2.8 L IS, though both are front-focusing slightly. Microadjustment proved relatively futile for the 15-85, so not sure what to do...
Yep I had similar focusing problems (abeit with single point focusing) and ended up returning my 7d after 3 weeks of testing. Aside from this key issue the camera is absolutely awesome, but like any other product there is some variability.
After calibrating my perfectly sharp 70-200 f/4 to -12, I kept getting OOF shots in the wild. I recalibrated 3 times using a tripod/MLU/crosshair target and got values from -13 to -10, but still focus was all over the place.
I guess it worked out ok for me, because I now have a 1d4 on order
I would recommend checking for proper focus for all the AF modes if more MA is required than +/-5. That's where I knew there was a problem, both my 70-200 and 100-400 are basically spot on with my 5D2. When I was checking focus, I found Spot AF required +8 MA. Then switched over to Zone AF, and focus wasn't even close. It finally dialed in at +10. Then I switched back to Spot AF and it was way off. I did quickly check one other AF mode, and it was slightly out. But it wasn't worth bothering with since MA was way off between two AF modes. Unfortunately, I didn't try the zone AF mode until after it was too late to exchange the camera so I had to send it in to Canon (where it sits now).
Speaking of Canon service, does anyone know what a typical turnaround time is for warranty service (not CPS)? I sent mine in last Tuesday (2nd day USPS), and when I finally saw the camera was in "accepted" status yesterday, it just says I should have the camera back within 10 business days. Three weeks seemed like a long time, so I called them only to get the canned "10 business days" answer. And it seemed like he didn't even want to find anything more out about my repair, explain the process, etc., just wanted to be done with the conversation....
ohyeah wrote:
Speaking of Canon service, does anyone know what a typical turnaround time is for warranty service (not CPS)? I sent mine in last Tuesday (2nd day USPS), and when I finally saw the camera was in "accepted" status yesterday, it just says I should have the camera back within 10 business days. Three weeks seemed like a long time, so I called them only to get the canned "10 business days" answer. And it seemed like he didn't even want to find anything more out about my repair, explain the process, etc., just wanted to be done with the conversation....
I am sure it depends on the workload and complexity of the repairs ahead of your camera. The 10 day answer gives them plenty of time to get almost all requests fulfilled.
Thought the shutter button was broken until I read it is the same as what is used in the 1-series cams. I speculated that the high shooting speeds require a shutter release button less prone to falsing. I could be full of it though.