brainiac wrote:
I see a lot of talk at that link, but no demonstrations of the phenomenon.
Did you look at the graph at the bottom of the article? It's a plot of the deflection of a laser reflected off the camera while firing the shutter. IE a physical recording of the effects of mirror slap on the camera itself.
Looks pretty convincing to me.
It would also tie in with my experience - ie if you want a sharper photo a tripod is a good idea. Why else would there be mirror lock up functions etc if mirror shake was a myth?
brainiac wrote:
I've still never seen any demonstration of 'mirror slap' blurring an image in any visible way, even on the massive Pentax 6x7. Mirror slap blur on 35mm is a popular myth in my experience.
I agree with Brainiac. I think this is again an acadenic issue, not a real world shooting reality.
Sam tran wrote:
This, I believed, is a beginning of OM's "trojan horse" warfare, that will eventually pulling Canon & Nikon users over to OM's DSLR bodies, if we're buying enough (another word for "too many") OM's lens for this Pen body. I hope that Canon will counter with G1X body, a little bit larger than G9/G10 - and a adapter for any Canon's lens. It will hurt the Rebel line definitely, but it might prevent further "bleeding".
-Sam
If I understand, then you are saying people will be buying 4/3rds lenses for these--and thus be lured to go 4/3rds all the way with the larger 4/3rds body. Unlikely, since you need m4/3rds lenses which can't be used on full 4/3rds bodies. You can use 4/3rds lenses (with adaptor) on m4/3rds bodies--but not the reverse.
OTOH--with an m4/3rds body, you can use a multitude of other lenses with adaptors--but I doubt that will mean many Canon or Nikon folks move to Olympus totally. I have a 5D and other Canon bodies and a G1--and use adaptors for 5 MF lenses plus an OLy 9-18 and 2 Panasonic lenses. I have no intention of movnig to the Olympus DSLRs.
dasrocket wrote:
I agree with Brainiac. I think this is again an acadenic issue, not a real world shooting reality.
One should probably conclude at most that one hasn't seen any proof of how much it affects camera stability, not that it is definitely a myth, until it is actually disproven. Maybe someone who shoots rangefinders can weigh in here-- can you shoot rangefinders handheld at significantly slower shutter speeds? If so, are there any good alternate candidates for the difference? Just thinking out loud here.
EDIT: Ah, the posted info seems to do the trick. Slow reader.
mawz wrote:
Did you look at the graph at the bottom of the article? It's a plot of the deflection of a laser reflected off the camera while firing the shutter. IE a physical recording of the effects of mirror slap on the camera itself.
Nice graph, but this refers to very long or very short (macro) lenses, and specific situations. In my experience, anything less than the weight of a 1D series camera will suffer more from user movement than mirror slap -hence the IS.
picnic wrote:
If I understand, then you are saying people will be buying 4/3rds lenses for these--and thus be lured to go 4/3rds all the way with the larger 4/3rds body. Unlikely, since you need m4/3rds lenses which can't be used on full 4/3rds bodies. You can use 4/3rds lenses (with adaptor) on m4/3rds bodies--but not the reverse.
OTOH--with an m4/3rds body, you can use a multitude of other lenses with adaptors--but I doubt that will mean many Canon or Nikon folks move to Olympus totally. I have a 5D and other Canon bodies and a G1--and use adaptors for 5 MF lenses plus an OLy 9-18 and 2 Panasonic lenses. I have no intention of movnig to the Olympus DSLRs.
I'm actually considering doing exactly that, adding a 4/3rds body, the E-30 to be specific. I want it to cover what the G1 doesn't do as well (action, especially AF-C and continuous advance type action, and some long-lens work). I expect to continue to use the G1 as my primary digital body and will buy lenses primarily for m43 rather than 4/3rds.
Question for anyone familiar with the EP-1 such as a reviewer. For the past few years, one use I have found very handy with take everywhere, small compact cameras is their ability to record audio only, very handy for lectures and such. The original Ricoh GRD is great for this and will record audio until your card is full. The second GRD-II dropped the unlimited time/audio only recording ability. The panasonic LX3 likewise does not offer unlimited time audio only recording, one reason I avoided that camera. My Sigma DP-1 thankfully does have this option. Whats the situation with this EP-? If I'm reading the specs correctly, it appears your limited to 30 seconds or does another mode exist for unlimited audio only recording? Olympus makes a big deal about the audio capabilities of the EP-1 stating "The recording capabilities of the E-P1 are versatile enough for all your audio needs..." on their website. Seems like if you are limited to only 30 second clips, that would not be the case.
MaxiKana wrote:
Could you PLEASE stop discussing camera wobble, this is not the thread for it.
Does anyone know when abouts the E-P1 will be released?
The olympus US site asks for your email to let you know when it will be available. The canadian site does not even mentione anything about the camera. Elsewhere, I am not sure.
dasrocket wrote:
The olympus US site asks for your email to let you know when it will be available. The canadian site does not even mentione anything about the camera. Elsewhere, I am not sure.
Henry's has pricing up, $100 over US for each kit. The 17 is $349.
Just noticed that a second gallery has been posted at DPreview of images taken with the 17mm lens. These are jpegs so perhaps the raw will be better but there seems to be some minor CA issues with that lens (noticeable in the first image of the girl with the mini) and strangely, some pretty bad noise in the shadows shot at base ISO (200).
In the second shot, look at the leaves in shadow behind the girl. The noise did not appear this severe in the previous gallery.
brainiac wrote:
Show me. I used Hasselblad, Rollei 6008, Pentax 6x7, Mamiya 6, Contax, Nikon and Canon 135 for years and I've still never encountered it to the extent that it spoiled sharpness in a picture.
I've noticed mirror slap affecting sharpness when doing moon shots at marginal shutter speeds (in the case of sliver moons and eclipses).
It's especially noticeable when shooting with my 40D in Live View. Using a remote cable release and Live View, I can see vibration when the mirror flips up after an exposure, or if I use the Live View mode which makes the mirror flip before the exposure.
I don't have any sample images, but it's pretty obvious if you've got a Live View camera, at least in this particular situation.
Quick question guys. If I was going to buy this camera I would only use it with manual zone focusing or hyperfocal distance focusing. The things I cant find in the reviews are:
- Do you MF from the lens or the buttons in the back?
- Does the 17mm lens have any focus distance or hyperfocal distance markings? Cant see anything on it.
- Does it show on the screen the distance when focusing manually?
- When the camera is idle and goes to power save mode, does it remember the distance set before when it powers up, or do we have to set it again?
Probably too early to ask these questions, but I was wondering if you've seen it mentioned in any of the reviews floating around. Cant see anything helpful in that regard in dpreview.
('bout the mirror slap)