HC110 may be cheaper (I haven't checked, but I'll take your word for it), but I find that I like Rodinal in thinner dolutions than I like HC110. I routinly use Rodinal at 1:50 for about 10 minutes, where I would use HC110 at 1:9 for about 6-7 minutes developing time (if I remember correctly). That's alot more developing per bottle with Rodinal than with HC110. Making the price difference not really much.
However, that said, I actually liked HC110 better for Tri-X 320 than Rodinal. But I got annoyed at Kodak for cutting down their film offerings in 8x10 Tri-X 320 to only 10 sheet packages, instead of the previous larger packages. I hate opening a brand new package every time I load film, sometimes two packages at a time! It seems like such a waste. So anyway, I've switched to other films (Adox 25 and Arista 100) that still offer in 50 sheet packages, and have found that I like Rodinal better for those films. But, that could be a factor of my dilutions, timing, and agitation habbits.
Daniel Buck wrote:
HC110 may be cheaper (I haven't checked, but I'll take your word for it), but I find that I like Rodinal in thinner dolutions than I like HC110. I routinly use Rodinal at 1:50 for about 10 minutes, where I would use HC110 at 1:9 for about 6-7 minutes developing time (if I remember correctly). That's alot more developing per bottle with Rodinal than with HC110. Making the price difference not really much.
However, that said, I actually liked HC110 better for Tri-X 320 than Rodinal. But I got annoyed at Kodak for cutting down their film offerings in 8x10 Tri-X 320 to only 10 sheet packages, instead of the previous larger packages. I hate opening a brand new package every time I load film, sometimes two packages at a time! It seems like such a waste. So anyway, I've switched to other films (Adox 25 and Arista 100) that still offer in 50 sheet packages, and have found that I like Rodinal better for those films. But, that could be a factor of my dilutions, timing, and agitation habbits....Show more →
I used HC-110 with Tri-X 320 myself and Rodinal (1:64) with slower films. The great thing about HC-110 is that it will last forever, like Rodinal, while also being highly adaptable to different development techniques. Used with partial stand development (I like 2-3 minute intervals) and higher dilutions, you can get quite a bit of accutance out of HC-110 without the graininess that Rodinal is prone to which is why it works well with a faster film such as Tri-X. With higher dilutions and stand development, the developer is exhausted at the highlights first while continuing to work on the shadows and midtones. This basically pushes those midtones up while still maintaining great control of the highlights. Anyway, that's what I have found.
I've pretty much decided to start the home-developing now. The hassles of getting to the lab are inhibiting me from shooting.
So what should my shopping list be? I don't want to go into the shop and just take everything they give me. I know I need a bag, developing tank, reel, and the chemicals. But what else do people find essential/helpful? Thanks!
One other question. Throughout this thread people have basically assumed color film goes to the lab.
My understanding is that color processing is the same as BW, just that temperature is more critical. Yes? If that is true, my intention is to develop color at home, too.
What do we think of that?
Re: color dev at home. Depending on the chemicals you want to use, it's a pain in the butt to get them for home use. B&H won't ship them. The most easily available kits are powdered kits (Tetenal), which for various (perhaps only theoretical) reasons, are less ideal. Mostly due to the blix as opposed to separate bleach and fix. This is my take on it from reading what Photo Engineer has said over on APUG - He's a retired Kodak employee who worked on a lot of products.
I've been meaning to do it at home, but when it comes down to it, sending it off to a lab to get it developed and quick scans is cheap enough. Saves me from scanning it all.
For B&W, I'd get:
- changing bag or throw a towel under your bathroom door and do it in there. easier than a changing bag. I used to use a changing bag. Then I sealed my bathroom door frame with weather stripping and throw a towel under it. I'll never use a changing bag again if I can help it.
- tank. one or two reel. if you stick with it, you'll be annoyed with developing one roll at a time - of course you can always get a two reel later. I use stainless with stainless reels. The cheap ones from freestyle or B&H are fine.
- reel(s). I like stainless steel reels. I never got along with the plastic ones. Some people are the exact opposite. If you go stainless, DO get a Hewes reel. They are more expensive but WAY easier to load. Freestylephoto has them for $20 - B&H is a lot more expensive.
- chems. I'd get developer, fix, and photo-flo. You can skip the stop - just use water after the dev and before the fix. I personally use XTOL since it's easy to mix up at room temperature and gives a slight speed boost. Others swear by liquid devs because they are easier to mix - Rodinal, HC 110 and TMAX come to mind. Ilford has equivalents. For fix I'd get a liquid rapid fix. I use Ilford. Don't forget Photoflo. Helps drying.
- I'd pick up a set or two of the film clips for hanging your film to dry.
- you also might want a film leader retriever. The $5 metals ones suck. Get the $10 plastic one. Or just use a can opener and open the canister completely and take the film out to load it.
- thermometer to measure your dev temp
- clock
That's all you really need. Don't forget some kind of sleeves or pages to put your negs in. When you are done washing your film, dunk it in the photoflo solution (diluted), and hang it up to dry in the shower. I rigged a coat hanger that hangs over the shower rod. If you have problems with dust, run the shower on hot for a couple minutes to make the bathroom steamy. Your negs might dry with some curl - if they do, cut them up, put them in sleeves/pages, and put them under a bunch of books overnight.
Take notes on your times/temps and the results so you know what to change if things come out unexpected. APUG is a great resource too.
You raise a good point. This is 120 film, not 35. Not sure if that makes a difference anywhere other than the leader retriever. Thanks for the detailed walkthrough. I have a professional company in town - I wonder if I can buy the chemicals there. I need to go up there again this week anyhow to pick up my film.
Yup it does make a difference. You don't need a leader retriever, and the reels are less fiddly. I'd still get a Hewes reel, but its not as big of a deal. You will need a larger tank though - one made for 2 35mm reels (16oz).
I'm using old Nikkor/Honeywell reels for 120 and those are really good and plentiful on the auction site.
I don't own a Hewes in 120 but I have 2 in 35 and Kid is right. The 35mm Hewes are worth it.
I was going to get a 220 reel from Hewes but 2 separate people said they sucked on the Adorama site (in the reviews).
I was, wtf?? Hewes are supposed to be the best and everyone recommends them.
I do color and b/w both in ss tanks in a water bath and it's not that difficult really.
Just adjust your starting temp a bit depending on what your temp is at the end of the 3:15 dev cycle. The rest of the process temp isn't as critical.
It's actually quicker and easier than b/w once you get your process nailed.
Just to clarify about the Hewes reels. They are better in two regards. One is they use thick SS wire, unlike some (but not all) of the cheap reels. The second part is the sprocket tab thingy at the center on the 35mm reels. Instead of some stupid clip, there are two prongs that you slip the sprocket holes of your film over. As far as I know, no other reel has these. It's obviously not a big deal for 120, so Bruce is correct - there are lots of good options, especially used.
I bought some reels made by someone else that have the sprocket tabs (don't remember who and they aren't marked)... makes all the difference in the world. Don't mess around with stupid clips... you will get ruined negatives from time to time using them... never with the tabs.
kidtexas wrote:
Just to clarify about the Hewes reels. They are better in two regards. One is they use thick SS wire, unlike some (but not all) of the cheap reels. The second part is the sprocket tab thingy at the center on the 35mm reels. Instead of some stupid clip, there are two prongs that you slip the sprocket holes of your film over. As far as I know, no other reel has these. It's obviously not a big deal for 120, so Bruce is correct - there are lots of good options, especially used.
