AI Servo, single middle point AF. You can use multipoint with a clear sky background, but it doesn;t work well with a busy background like trees - it can and will misfocus onto the background. You can use another single point to properly frame your BIF if you know the direction (like a point to the right to focus on a birds head as it is flying to the right).
Yes, too bad that IS and some other information is not includd in the Exif. I don;t even think the camera knows whether IS is on or not- it is an independent lens function.
gailb wrote:
Imagemaster, I know when IS is on or off. When I take some comparison shots and view them back home on my computer, I forget which ones were taken with IS off or on. Maybe I need to bring along a pad and pencil.
I have the same problem, but unless you are doing a comparison test with it on and off, it doesn't really matter.
Forgive my ignorance, but why should I use center point AF only for BIF. I've read some use multipoint for BIF, but they may have more focus points than my XSi.
If you are using multipoint, the camera will focus on the subject with the most contrast that any focus point sees, which may not be your bird if there is something else in the background. Like Gene said, it works best when there is just sky behind the bird. Even then, I still prefer center point only.
I get confused about which are the best AF settings to use One Shot, AI Focus or AI Servo. Many of the birds I photograph are on the ground and then take off. I've been using AI Focus, which I understand the camera senses when to switch between One Shot and AI Servo.
Use One Shot if your subject is sitting still and not likely to move. For all other cases use AI Servo. Forget about AI Focus. I have yet to hear from anyone that it works efficiently.
I rented a 400mm L lens today and will have it for two weeks. It should arrive Monday or Tuesday. During this time, I also hope to get together with the individual who owns the 100-400mm IS L, so I can give it a try. If necessary, I'll rent the latter too.
In a couple of weeks, I expect to have made up my mind about which lens to buy, assuming I can manage handling them.
Once again, thanks everyone for ALL the help. It is much appreciated.
PhotoHound wrote:
Go with the 300mm f/4 L IS, with a 1.4 teleconveter.
Ditto!
While Bushhaw is a great piece of gear, but not sure why folks recommended Bushhawk when the OP specifically wants something "light" and portable.
OP - If the 100-400 IS is too heavy for you, your best next option is 300 IS w/ TC. There is nothing lighter than that and has IS as well as IQ at the same time.
I have to second the 400mm f5.6L recommendation. I have that, some 300mm zooms and the 100-400mm. The fixed 400mm does need to be steadier, but turns in great results (despite no IS it is almost certainly the sharpest and best autofocusing lens in that range, and lightyears ahead of anything with a TC). I bought a gun-like mount for it, and that really works as I too don't have super-steady hands. When I overcome my shyness, I'll post some of my pics.
I will say though that when I first bought all this stuff I took some photos, then wondered what the heck I just spent all this money on -- disappointing shot after shot. After a while I figured out what to do, and now have (ok maybe just me) I think are great shots that make me happy with the gear and the hobby.
aeast wrote:
Here's a vote for the 300L f/4 IS +1.4 TC. I have this combo and can tell you that this lens is one I will never part with. You can get both of these for around the price of a 100-400 (which I have) and the 300L is far superior IMHO. The 300L is also MUCH lighter than the 100-400.
Good luck,
Aaron
Here's another vote for this combo - which gives you 420mm, at almost no sacrifice in IQ, IMO.
I use this as my handheld walkaround wildlife/bird lens, and BIF shooting. (I have a 500L + non-reporting 1.4x I use with monopod for "long" shooting.)
While Bushhaw is a great piece of gear, but not sure why folks recommended Bushhawk when the OP specifically wants something "light" and portable.
OP - If the 100-400 IS is too heavy for you, your best next option is 300 IS w/ TC. There is nothing lighter than that and has IS as well as IQ at the same time.
Ohhhh, in all these discussions I forgot about the 300 IS w/TC.
I found one that's about 2.5 years old, refurbished; from a reputable company. Is it okay to buy a refurbished lens?
If you can afford it, get the 400mm F4 DO. If not get the 400mm F5.6. Efficient shooting is the key to hand held success without fatigue. There are several skills you need to learn to accomplish this. If you learn proper technique and skills you can do it!
I have said before that my choice will likely be the 300 f4 IS lens to use with and without the TC. I might prefer that 400 5.6 if it were not for the fact that at 4oo mm I have a terrible time trying to locate BIF in the viewfinder of my 40D.. On my Bigma 50-500 I can zoom back to where I locate the birds in the viewfinder and then while keeping it in the viewfinder I can slowly zoom out again. I suppose the 300 will be like that to some degree but not quite as severe. This is something a person might want to consider as well.
pcimaging wrote:
I have said before that my choice will likely be the 300 f4 IS lens to use with and without the TC. I might prefer that 400 5.6 if it were not for the fact that at 4oo mm I have a terrible time trying to locate BIF in the viewfinder of my 40D.. On my Bigma 50-500 I can zoom back to where I locate the birds in the viewfinder and then while keeping it in the viewfinder I can slowly zoom out again. I suppose the 300 will be like that to some degree but not quite as severe. This is something a person might want to consider as well....Show more →
If you hand hold the camera/lens and learn subject aquistion skills, finding the bird won't be a problem at any focal length.
JimN wrote:
If you can afford it, get the 400mm F4 DO. If not get the 400mm F5.6. Efficient shooting is the key to hand held success without fatigue. There are several skills you need to learn to accomplish this. If you learn proper technique and skills you can do it!
I can't afford a DO lens.
But the 400mmL I rented arrives Monday or Tuesday. I'd like to make the best use of it during the two week rental period.
Can someone please tell me some of the types of skills I need to learn for efficient shooting hand held?
Also, what are some of the subject acquisition skills?
I think keeping up the shutter speed is most important. + EC for something against the sky and leading/tracking whatever you're trying to photograph. Knowing their habits and body language helps in identifying when they're about to take flight.
Alot of it is mainly practice....sorry to say but that's the best advice I've been given for in-flights.
OK, I tried my friend's 100-400mm IS Lens today. It was a disappointment....I mean I was a disappointment.
It was a very bright sunny day and the subject, an alligator, was side lit.
I first tried the camera on a tripod. Some of my images were still blurred. So that must mean I pressed the shutter release button too hard. A good but embarrassing lesson. But I'm not letting my embarrassment keep me from this confession because I'm not going to improve if I remain unaware of my mistakes.
I took photos while hand-holding the XSi with the 100-400mm L attached. We won't talk about them.
Here's the only decent photo from the lot, and even it isn't so good. I did use the shadow/highlight adjustment to tweak the lighting. It is a 50% crop or thereabout. Admittedly, the gator was quite a distance away.
1. Shoot in manual exposure mode, center af point only, ai servo af, high speed continuous drive.
2. Subject aquisition skill: Look at your subject. While looking at your subject pop the camera and lens up to your eye in line with your line of sight to the subject. Practice this with still subjects, then large slow subjects, then small faster subjects. Practice until you can put the subject in the viewfinder instantly almost every time.
3. Efficient shooting: Learn your subjects behavioral patterns so you can anticipate the action. Using #1 only have the camera in shooting position when actualy shooting. The rest of the time rest by putting the camera down.
4. See my thread on bumping the focus for bif and practice that technique for bif on non-sky bgs.
This is just the bare minimum basics. I spent 4 hours on this in the last class I taught on Friday, and that class is intended for advanced amatuer photogs and pros.
Raise your ISO to 400 to increase your shutter speed. Try stopping down the lens...the Gator shot was at F10 and a ISO of 200. Find the sweet spot of the lens (mine seems the sharpest at F/7.1 but it really depends on the conditions and the subject).
It's not going to happen overnight...it takes some time to find out what works with the equipment you use. Practice...yes, beating a dead Horse here but that's most important.
gailb wrote:
OK, I tried my friend's 100-400mm IS Lens today. It was a disappointment....I mean I was a disappointment.
It was a very bright sunny day and the subject, an alligator, was side lit.
I first tried the camera on a tripod. Some of my images were still blurred. So that must mean I pressed the shutter release button too hard. A good but embarrassing lesson. But I'm not letting my embarrassment keep me from this confession because I'm not going to improve if I remain unaware of my mistakes.
I took photos while hand-holding the XSi with the 100-400mm L attached. We won't talk about them.
Here's the only decent photo from the lot, and even it isn't so good. I did use the shadow/highlight adjustment to tweak the lighting. It is a 50% crop or thereabout. Admittedly, the gator was quite a distance away.
My rented 400mm L prime arrives in a day or two. I'll have two weeks with it, instead of a half hour. Hope things go better....Show more → Consider using a remote shutter release cable for the tripod shots. I say this because you have said you have very shaky hands. The cable release works well for many still shots and some action shots depending on thespeed of the subject.
I've looked at many of the photos of those in this who have galleries listed, as well as those who have contacted me by PM. Quite frankly, your photos take my breath away. Congratulations on the fine and inspiring work! I feel very fortunate to have the caliber of photographers taking so much time to offer me tips.
I have a long way to go but am a few baby steps ahead of where I was when I first started posting. I know these photos are far from the kind of quality and detail you capture but I'm offering them for any any further comments that can help me continue to improve.
I missed Fed Ex yesterday and don't have the 400mm L yet. All photos taken with the Canon XSi and 55-250mm IS lens; Continuous mode, AI Servo mode.
Focal Length 250 mm
Exposure Time 1/2000 sec
Aperture f/6.3
ISO Equivalent 400
Exposure Bias -1/3
Let me see if I can answer one of my own questions. All things being equal, if I had a lens with a longer reach, I could have captured more detail. Am I correct?
pcimaging wrote:
Consider using a remote shutter release cable for the tripod shots. I say this because you have said you have very shaky hands. The cable release works well for many still shots and some action shots depending on thespeed of the subject.
Why bother buying an additional piece of equipment, when the built-in self-timer works just as well?
That is true if you want to fiddle with the self timer . Some may prefer using the cameras self timer, I prefer using the cable so when I press the shutter it fires immediately. They really have two different purposes.
Maybe I need to bring along a pad and pencil. 
