In reply to the last post by sskoutas on page one.
For short runs at a low price you can bet that digital presses are being used. That means CMYK toner based systems. Generically put... Toner particles (beads) versus wet ink are much larger and will yield a smaller gamut of reproducible color than wet ink (offset presses) for CMYK printing. Many of the color hues will overlap and be in gamut for both offset (wet) and digital (toner), but some will not. That's just the nature of the beast. I'm not at all saying the quality is poor, just different and if managed properly it can be quite good.
sskoutas wrote:
I looked over the Apple book last night. I am pleased, but I'm not blown away. In general, I think the images look a bit darker than they do I on my Apple Cinema displays.
Comparing what you see on a monitor is not going to be necessarily accurately representative of what you see on a printed substrate. Remember your monitor emitting RGB pixels to display your image while printed photographic work is put to substrate in CMYK (subtractive color). Most associate monitors with additive color and it's easy to think in those terms, but it's not true additive color unless the RGB mixes which is not the case with monitor display pixels. I digress though. My point is this... When you take a image which you capture in RGB and print it in CMYK there has to be a conversion. Since we're dealing with two different color models you can bet that some colors of the RGB image may not be reproducible in the CMYK gamut. This is coupled with the particular CMYK gamut of the device (printer) and technology used (offset, digital, etc...) If you hope to have any level of accuracy with coming close to soft proofing on you monitor you need to take a few crucial steps. First, your monitor must be calibrated. Best done with a quality paring of hardware (spectrophotometer) and software (various) from a company such as Gretag Macbeth. If you don't want to spend the cash and understand you will give up accuracy you can use the free Adobe Gamma utility (PC) or for Mac, run the Calibrate utility, located on the System Preferences/Displays/Color tab. Monitor calibration isn't a one time occurrence either because it will change or degrade in performance over time. Next you will need an icc profile for the particular printer device your piece will be printed on. This describes the reproducible color the printer can output (it's gamut). A canned generic one is better than none, but one which was created for same paper/substrate you will be using is better. That is because the white point of the paper plays a role in how the ink or toner looks when put down on top of it. Any print provider worth using will have these for you. You will load this icc (or icm for PC) onto you system. For PC's XP or better it's as easy as right clicking and selecting Install Profile. For Mac copy profiles into the /Library/ColorSync/Profiles folder or the /Users/[username]/Library/ColorSync/Profiles folder. Now you need to invoke the soft proofing tools of your photo editing SW...I'll assume Photoshop. From PS go to the View menu and select Proof Setup > Custom (this is the same for Illustrator and InDesign btw). From here you can chose any icc profile you have loaded to soft proof to. When you turn on Proof colors you will see an on monitor shift in color which will be closer to your printed piece for that device the profile was based on. Further more you can also turn the Gamut Warning option (photoshop only) on from the same View menu. When on you will see any colors which are out of gamut turn to grey/gray while any the are in gamut remain in color. Remember, this is a soft proof only and will not perform any conversion to your image. Full color management is a much deeper topic. What it will do is give you a much closer approximation of what a printed version of you image will look like.
sskoutas wrote:
I don't know what the "technical" name is for it, but the slip jacket images have that "stack of ink" look to them, whereby when you look at the image from a side angle you can see the edges of each color layer.
What you're likely seeing here is called toner pile. On digital presses toner is placed on the paper and fused to it (on top of it) as opposed to wet ink which is absorbed. This pile height will vary depending on the toner properties, the printer used, the paper and how much toner coverage is required for that image.