Is there a 'best' focussing screen for using alt lenses with a 1DsII. Everyone mentions the E-es in connection with the 5D - is there a similar one for the 1DsII? Google is not my friend today....
Also - what happens with the AF points LEDs - are they there but no boxes around them? How easy is it to change screens - 5 min job, or major headache?
whichever 1-series screen that has a split focusing aid in the middle. Should be about $35 at most dealers, and just drops in. Takes about 30 seconds to change.
5 min job, no headaches, no shims to screw with.
I've tried them all save the grid model:
The EcS is NOT as good as the EeS model for the 5D - too wide a range as to what it considers 'in focus'.
Find the split in the split screen version too small to be of value for anything other than macro work
The center prism is very good for sports, etc - but will go dark at F4-5.6 unless you eye is exactly centered in the VF.
Best so far has been the Ec-CIV from the 1D3/1Ds3. Slides right in, nice and bright, good pop.
In a 1 series, there are no etched AF point boxes. Everything is LCD-generated and can be turned off - as can the red AF confirm lights.
I usually run with a clean VF and use the EC-CIV as a ground glass screen - can walk the DoF back and forth easily without a 5lbs of crap in the VF.
I also adapted a Nikon DK-17M VF magnifier and rubber eyecup to a spare 1 series eyecup that I usually leave on. Helps a lot with manual focus work - creates roughly a ~0.9 VF.
BrightScreen microprism is expensive (about $175) but also the best of all I've tried -
If you're "of a certain age" you might need to consider a more powerful dioptric eyepiece as well - crystal clear VF isn't as critical when you're using AF and AF confirm ligh, but the ability to "see into'" the VF is everything with MF. I've turned the AF confirm light off on my 1DsII; I know that AF is dead on with my two Canon long teles, and it's easier to focus with it out of thw way.
I've got the Ec-L cross split prism in my 1Ds...love it. Only down side is the prism messes with metering in the center, so I have to use a different focus point with ETTL or the exposures get kind of wacky. Works great with MF lenses though.
I`ve tried them all and find the centre split image to be the best all round for me (the EC-B I think.) but I do use an AF comfirm adapter. With regards having to pick up something horizontal to focus on ? well, no problem, just a slight turn of the camera usually does it for me. The split image screen is slightly darker than the standard screen for the mk2 and mk3.
There is without a doubt some focus shift when focussing wide open and stopping down to shoot with some lenses (overcome on the later cameras by using live view) which sort of falls in line with how I use my gear. My findings are that with the 1dsmk2 the use of the better Canon lenses give a result that is well on par with the MF lenses (apart from CA that is) so I`m more able to use AF lenses on the camera that hasn`t got live view, where as the 1dsmk3 really does need and make use of that extra res that the MF lenses give it and then you have the benefit of live view to assist.
I can`t believe that all Canon lenses get away without focus shift and so (as they focus wide open) is focus shift a working problem anyway? who knows, I`m pretty sure that they haven`t programmed the cameras to make adjustments for different lenses and maybe DOF takes care of most of it, maybe that`s why Canon lenses can`t keep up (wide angles that is) with the manual focus lenses because they are computed to prevent focus shift and that is the performance compromise.
I went out last week and did a few tests, on the 1dsmk2 the Canon humble 85 1.8 is simply superb as is my 135 f2 (I couldn`t wish for better performance) on the 1dsmk3 the 85 is OK but doesn`t shine quite so much, the 135 f2 is still good on the 1dsmk3 though.
My Leica sumi f2 is very good on the 1dsmk2 but I`ve not seen it shine yet on my mk3. My Contax 25 2.8 is good on both cameras. My Contax 21mm 2.8 is very good on my 1dsmk3 all over the frame but on the 1dsmk2 (although the corners are very good) it certainly doesn`t shine out as well (obviously the res of the chip can`t take full advantage of the lens or/and the mk2 chip isn`t so demanding so the difference is harder to spot.)
My opinion (and it is just my opinion) is when I take my 1dsmk2 out then (in general) I can use what ever lens I choose from my collection and come home with the bacon whereas with the 1dsmk3 I really do need to choose wisely(usually MF) use tripod, remote, mirror up and a tripod.
I was having this discussion with a close pro friend of mine recently and obviously the newer features and ergonomics of the mk3 are lovely to have but with hind sight I would have missed the 1dsmk3 and waited for the Mk4 where I`m sure it would leave the mk2 in the dust but the mk3 doesn`t yet(for me remember)
Sorry, I`ve digressed a touch although I think that most things are related.
