p.2 #1 · If Canon have got it wrong let me know how........
jcolwell wrote:
My "take" on this post is that Fred is surprised to get really excellent results while shooting the wall, but not so good when shooting in "real life". That's why I asked about the tripod, which tends to give great results, plus working with a tripod gives you time to relax and think about what you're doing. Taking sharp handheld photos is not a trivial pursuit, even with IS and decent shutter speeds. Also, things like curvature of the plane of focus and DOF can interact in ways that provide undesirable results (for sharpness) that are not in line with the photographers expectations. ...Show more →
Plus atmospheric conditions, subject movement, subject distance, light quality, etc etc etc.... But only if they could all be brick walls.... Don't sweat it, your equipment works fine. Now retire the mental maturation of shooting brick walls and examining them under the microscope, and get back to what matters: Light and composition. If you spend half as much time and effort as you did on the bricks, your photography will improve exponentially more than any microadjustment/calibration you could ever imagine.
p.2 #2 · If Canon have got it wrong let me know how........
EB-1 wrote:
For landscape work you should consider an FF/FX body.
EBH
Cost my friend. I don't have the money the go out and by a FF body. Nor do I have the money to get a FF standard lens or a wide lens - I'd want to get a 5D Mark II and 24-70L and 16-35L II lenses if I went FF. I want the best as after using this gear I don't want anything that is sub excellent.
Oct 12, 2008 at 12:49 PM
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p.2 #3 · If Canon have got it wrong let me know how........
Fred Lindsey wrote:
The picture was shot at f16 so I can imagine there was no loss of focus. The lens I used performed flawlessy in the test. I focused on the foreground but the mountains are just the same.
Is it in my processing?
Thanks
Well if you shot it at f/16 on a crop camera, then I don't think you can expect much better sharpness in the corners. At f/16 diffraction is going to seriously limit the potential sharpness on a crop camera. I also would be worried that with your less than completely stable tripod small movements (perhaps caused by even a light wind) might also be robbing the shot of some sharpness. If you shot that at f/16 it was probably a pretty long exposure. As you get your new tripod and if you shoot such shots at f/8 or so (that would be my advice as you can still get the whole scene in focus) I think you will find better sharpness. I hope this helps.
p.2 #4 · If Canon have got it wrong let me know how........
I think it was shot at 1/125th. I suppose diffraction could be something. Do you think it could be destructive editing though. As this shot below is one I took as I normally take them using my 17-55 at 28mm 5.6 and then checking it with the shots above. Absolutely stellar.
Sharpened with default setting of 3 in camera. Shot in RAW. Converted to TIFF with DPP using a sharpening setting of 100 on top of the RAW sharpening. Converted to JPEG using CS3 with a compression value of 12.
p.2 #6 · If Canon have got it wrong let me know how........
Fred Lindsey wrote:
Yeh thats basically my point. I also kinda aimed to show people the potential of the lenses if they were on the edge and to also demonstrate that even with all the Nikon rave going on at the moment Canon still have exemplary IQ.
So how should I go about getting these kind of results when not shooting with a tripod?
High shutter speed. S-q-u-e-e-z-e the shutter button g-e-n-t-l-y. With practise you will learn to do this quite fast.
I by the way should say that I aim to use a tripod a lot more soon. I have at the moment a Jessops TP327, just about the cheapest tripod money can buy but will soon be upgrading to a Manfrotto system (hopefully a 458B and a 468MGRC2 if santa is in a good mood ) . Can you give me any tips on ballhead QR systems you recommend considering I use a 30D/40D and the above tested lenses on a regular basis. Solid tripod legs are critical. Any Manfrotto (or other good brand) head that is up to the weight of your kit will do for lenses less than 300mm or so. Above this point you should be considering special kit, such as Wimberley. With long telephotos (400mm and up) rest something (even your arm, but keep still) over the centre of support to dampen any vibration, while you release via remote or cable. HTH
Thanks everyone, I hope the post provides something as it took ages to do
p.2 #7 · If Canon have got it wrong let me know how........
I'm glad this thread made it to page 2 so that I could skip that avalanche of images.
Oct 13, 2008 at 12:04 PM
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p.2 #8 · If Canon have got it wrong let me know how........
This thread is now locked. There are over 80 images loading on the first page alone. The best approach for posting so many images is to create a gallery and link it on your post. Thanks for your understading.
Please stop. This is beyond numbing. Just makes no sense whatsoever.
