Post your recent film shots!
p.802 #2Post your recent film shots!
Leica M2 + Voigtlander 35mm f/2 Ultron. Fomapan100.
Home developed with Rodinal & TF-4, Epson v700 scan.
Untitled by Jonathan Robson, on Flickr
Ford v8 by Jonathan Robson, on Flickr
Covid Closed Railway Musuem by Jonathan Robson, on Flickr
Home developed with Rodinal & TF-4, Epson v700 scan.
Untitled by Jonathan Robson, on FlickrFord v8 by Jonathan Robson, on FlickrCovid Closed Railway Musuem by Jonathan Robson, on FlickrSep 08, 2020 at 08:21 AM
p.802 #5Post your recent film shots!
A friend of mine developed this roll and had a minor goof, no big deal. 
Fuji GW690II, Fomapan 100
Fuji GW690II, Fomapan 100
Sep 09, 2020 at 06:03 AM
p.802 #7Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Perhaps THE worst place to land when parachuting.
Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpg
Just pulled the trigger on a GW690III, looking forward to trying some medium format. I didn't realize how popular they were until I tried to snag one on the bay
Perhaps THE worst place to land when parachuting.
Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpg
Just pulled the trigger on a GW690III, looking forward to trying some medium format. I didn't realize how popular they were until I tried to snag one on the bay
Sep 09, 2020 at 12:27 PM
p.802 #8Post your recent film shots!
robsonj wrote:
Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpgJust pulled the trigger on a GW690III, looking forward to trying some medium format. I didn't realize how popular they were until I tried to snag one on the bay
Congrats! The lens is crazy sharp on it, and it is a very simple/easy to use camera. The only thing to be aware of is maintaining tension on the film when you load it/close the back. I do this by applying pressure to the film feeding side (the left side where you would load a new roll) as you advance the film as you are loading it. Then as you come up to the start arrow, keep slowly advancing the film as you close the back thus maintaining tension. The times (2) that i did not do this resulted in fat/loose rolls and light leaks.
I've never had this issue with any of my other medium format cameras. Including the Lomo LC-A 120!
Also... the Voigtlander VCII meter is an excellent hot shoe meter for this camera. But in daylight I normally roll nekkid and Sunny F16.
Desmolicious wrote
Perhaps THE worst place to land when parachuting.Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpg
Congrats! The lens is crazy sharp on it, and it is a very simple/easy to use camera. The only thing to be aware of is maintaining tension on the film when you load it/close the back. I do this by applying pressure to the film feeding side (the left side where you would load a new roll) as you advance the film as you are loading it. Then as you come up to the start arrow, keep slowly advancing the film as you close the back thus maintaining tension. The times (2) that i did not do this resulted in fat/loose rolls and light leaks.
I've never had this issue with any of my other medium format cameras. Including the Lomo LC-A 120!
Also... the Voigtlander VCII meter is an excellent hot shoe meter for this camera. But in daylight I normally roll nekkid and Sunny F16.
Sep 09, 2020 at 01:02 PM
p.802 #9Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpgJust pulled the trigger on a GW690III, looking forward to trying some medium format. I didn't realize how popular they were until I tried to snag one on the bayCongrats! The lens is crazy sharp on it, and it is a very simple/easy to use camera. The only thing to be aware of is maintaining tension on the film when you load it/close the back. I do this by applying pressure to the film feeding side (the left side where you would load a new roll) as you advance the film as you are loading it. Then as you come up to the start arrow, keep slowly advancing the film as you close the back thus maintaining tension. The times (2) that i did not do this resulted in...Show more →
Thanks for the tips. I use a VCII on my M2, one of the reasons the 690 appeals in the same way the M2 does... 100% mechanical, no electronics to corrode.
robsonj wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Perhaps THE worst place to land when parachuting.Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpg
Thanks for the tips. I use a VCII on my M2, one of the reasons the 690 appeals in the same way the M2 does... 100% mechanical, no electronics to corrode.
Sep 09, 2020 at 01:38 PM
p.802 #10Post your recent film shots!
robsonj wrote:
Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpgJust pulled the trigger on a GW690III, looking forward to trying some medium format. I didn't realize how popular they were until I tried to snag one on the bayCongrats! The lens is crazy sharp on it, and it is a very simple/easy to use camera. The only thing to be aware of is maintaining tension on the film when you load it/close the back. I do this by applying pressure to the film feeding side (the left side where you would load a new roll) as you advance the film as you are loading it. Then as you come up to the start arrow, keep slowly advancing the film as you close the back thus maintaining tension. The times (2) that i did not do this resulted in fat/loose rolls and light leaks.
I've never had this issue with any of my other medium format cameras. Including the Lomo LC-A 120!
Also... the Voigtlander VCII meter is an excellent hot shoe meter for this camera. But in daylight I normally roll nekkid and Sunny F16.Thanks for the tips. I use a VCII on my M2, one of the reasons the 690 appeals in the same way the M2 does... 100% mechanical, no electronics to corrode.
I think it even mentions the maintaining tension thing in the owner's manual. Which is available online if you don't have a copy.
If you can get hold of 220 film, this is the camera for it! 16 exp vs 8.
Desmolicious wrote
robsonj wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Perhaps THE worst place to land when parachuting.Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpg
I've never had this issue with any of my other medium format cameras. Including the Lomo LC-A 120!
Also... the Voigtlander VCII meter is an excellent hot shoe meter for this camera. But in daylight I normally roll nekkid and Sunny F16.
I think it even mentions the maintaining tension thing in the owner's manual. Which is available online if you don't have a copy.
If you can get hold of 220 film, this is the camera for it! 16 exp vs 8.
Sep 09, 2020 at 01:42 PM
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p.802 #11Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpgJust pulled the trigger on a GW690III, looking forward to trying some medium format. I didn't realize how popular they were until I tried to snag one on the bayCongrats! The lens is crazy sharp on it, and it is a very simple/easy to use camera. The only thing to be aware of is maintaining tension on the film when you load it/close the back. I do this by applying pressure to the film feeding side (the left side where you would load a new roll) as you advance the film as you are loading it. Then as you come up to the start arrow, keep slowly advancing the film as you close the back thus maintaining tension. The times (2) that i did not do this resulted in fat/loose rolls and light leaks.
I've never had this issue with any of my other medium format cameras. Including the Lomo LC-A 120!
Also... the Voigtlander VCII meter is an excellent hot shoe meter for this camera. But in daylight I normally roll nekkid and Sunny F16.Thanks for the tips. I use a VCII on my M2, one of the reasons the 690 appeals in the same way the M2 does... 100% mechanical, no electronics to corrode.I think it even mentions the maintaining tension thing in the owner's manual. Which is available online if you don't have a copy.
If you can get hold of 220 film, this is the camera for it! 16 exp vs 8.
One of the attractions to the 690 is actually the 8 shots. I don't shoot a lot of film, so 24 & 36 is always a lot for me to get through. 8 is great for me
robsonj wrote
Desmolicious wrote
robsonj wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Perhaps THE worst place to land when parachuting.Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpg
I've never had this issue with any of my other medium format cameras. Including the Lomo LC-A 120!
Also... the Voigtlander VCII meter is an excellent hot shoe meter for this camera. But in daylight I normally roll nekkid and Sunny F16.
If you can get hold of 220 film, this is the camera for it! 16 exp vs 8.
One of the attractions to the 690 is actually the 8 shots. I don't shoot a lot of film, so 24 & 36 is always a lot for me to get through. 8 is great for me
Sep 09, 2020 at 04:16 PM
p.802 #12Post your recent film shots!
I always do one of these, though not always with the Fuji GW690II (Fomapan 100).
Sep 09, 2020 at 05:46 PM
p.802 #13Post your recent film shots!
Photo was taken with 135mm f/4 lens. Great lens if I may say so. I also have a SMC Pentax 55mm f/4 (which is actually a wide angle lens for medium format).
I used to own a bunch of other film cameras (FUJI GA645, GSW690III, GW690, Nikon F100) but have sold all of them for various reasons.
What most people don't know is that you can buy a film camera, used it for a year or two and then sell it for a small profit!
Now, this Pentax 67 I picked up, I love it, shooting with the waist level finder is amazing. When looking through it everything has a 3D pop to it.
Here's another with the 135mm lens.
I used to own a bunch of other film cameras (FUJI GA645, GSW690III, GW690, Nikon F100) but have sold all of them for various reasons.
What most people don't know is that you can buy a film camera, used it for a year or two and then sell it for a small profit!
Now, this Pentax 67 I picked up, I love it, shooting with the waist level finder is amazing. When looking through it everything has a 3D pop to it.
Here's another with the 135mm lens.
Sep 10, 2020 at 06:10 AM
p.802 #14Post your recent film shots!
robsonj wrote:
Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpgJust pulled the trigger on a GW690III, looking forward to trying some medium format. I didn't realize how popular they were until I tried to snag one on the bayCongrats! The lens is crazy sharp on it, and it is a very simple/easy to use camera. The only thing to be aware of is maintaining tension on the film when you load it/close the back. I do this by applying pressure to the film feeding side (the left side where you would load a new roll) as you advance the film as you are loading it. Then as you come up to the start arrow, keep slowly advancing the film as you close the back thus maintaining tension. The times (2) that i did not do this resulted in fat/loose rolls and light leaks.
I've never had this issue with any of my other medium format cameras. Including the Lomo LC-A 120!
Also... the Voigtlander VCII meter is an excellent hot shoe meter for this camera. But in daylight I normally roll nekkid and Sunny F16.Thanks for the tips. I use a VCII on my M2, one of the reasons the 690 appeals in the same way the M2 does... 100% mechanical, no electronics to corrode.I think it even mentions the maintaining tension thing in the owner's manual. Which is available online if you don't have a copy.
If you can get hold of 220 film, this is the camera for it! 16 exp vs 8.One of the attractions to the 690 is actually the 8 shots. I don't shoot a lot of film, so 24 & 36 is always a lot for me to get through. 8 is great for me
I take 8 pics between picking up the camera to walking out the front door to go shoot...
Desmolicious wrote
robsonj wrote
Desmolicious wrote
robsonj wrote
Desmolicious wrote
Perhaps THE worst place to land when parachuting.Fuji GW690III, decrepit Tri-X 320, DF96 monobath.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50323855941_8511a8208f_b.jpg
I've never had this issue with any of my other medium format cameras. Including the Lomo LC-A 120!
Also... the Voigtlander VCII meter is an excellent hot shoe meter for this camera. But in daylight I normally roll nekkid and Sunny F16.
If you can get hold of 220 film, this is the camera for it! 16 exp vs 8.
I take 8 pics between picking up the camera to walking out the front door to go shoot...
Sep 10, 2020 at 11:15 AM
p.802 #15Post your recent film shots!
Hahaha, after owning many film cameras that took 36, 16, and 8 shots I feel like my current camera that takes 10 shots is the perfect balance between quantity and quality.
Sep 10, 2020 at 06:38 PM
p.802 #16Post your recent film shots!
Desmolicious wrote:
Congrats! The lens is crazy sharp on it, and it is a very simple/easy to use camera. The only thing to be aware of is maintaining tension on the film when you load it/close the back. I do this by applying pressure to the film feeding side (the left side where you would load a new roll) as you advance the film as you are loading it. Then as you come up to the start arrow, keep slowly advancing the film as you close the back thus maintaining tension. The times (2) that i did not do this resulted in fat/loose rolls and light leaks.
I've never had this issue with any of my other medium format cameras. Including the Lomo LC-A 120!
Also... the Voigtlander VCII meter is an excellent hot shoe meter for this camera. But in daylight I normally roll nekkid and Sunny F16.Thanks for the tips. I use a VCII on my M2, one of the reasons the 690 appeals in the same way the M2 does... 100% mechanical, no electronics to corrode.I think it even mentions the maintaining tension thing in the owner's manual. Which is available online if you don't have a copy.
If you can get hold of 220 film, this is the camera for it! 16 exp vs 8.One of the attractions to the 690 is actually the 8 shots. I don't shoot a lot of film, so 24 & 36 is always a lot for me to get through. 8 is great for meI take 8 pics between picking up the camera to walking out the front door to go shoot...
Have you tried the shutter release lock? 😀
robsonj wrote
Desmolicious wrote
robsonj wrote
Desmolicious wrote
robsonj wrote
Just pulled the trigger on a GW690III, looking forward to trying some medium format. I didn't realize how popular they were until I tried to snag one on the bayI've never had this issue with any of my other medium format cameras. Including the Lomo LC-A 120!
Also... the Voigtlander VCII meter is an excellent hot shoe meter for this camera. But in daylight I normally roll nekkid and Sunny F16.
If you can get hold of 220 film, this is the camera for it! 16 exp vs 8.
Have you tried the shutter release lock? 😀
Sep 10, 2020 at 08:43 PM
p.802 #17Post your recent film shots!
You guys need to drag out the ol' Fuji 617 which only gets four frames on a roll of 120 and you have to put a lens on before loading the film or you ruin your film and then you can't change the lens until you've shot your entire roll. Well, theoretically you could attempt a very awkward change in a dark bag, but, no. So basically, the procedure is to view through the independent viewfinder, mount your lens of choice - and there are four - view through the viewfinder, fine tune and focus through the groundglass back, load your film and shoot a four shot bracket then move on to the next roll. AND if you manually cock the shutter in the wrong order, and I can't remember if it's before or after advancing the film, you'll lose a frame. The joys of that camera.
Sep 12, 2020 at 07:40 AM
p.802 #18Post your recent film shots!
Peter Figen wrote:
You guys need to drag out the ol' Fuji 617 which only gets four frames on a roll of 120 and you have to put a lens on before loading the film or you ruin your film and then you can't change the lens until you've shot your entire roll. Well, theoretically you could attempt a very awkward change in a dark bag, but, no. So basically, the procedure is to view through the independent viewfinder, mount your lens of choice - and there are four - view through the viewfinder, fine tune and focus through the groundglass back,...Show more →
I briefly owned a Noblex Pro 175. That was 4 shots on 120 film. I think I only used it for 2 rolls before I moved it on.
Not sure why...
You guys need to drag out the ol' Fuji 617 which only gets four frames on a roll of 120 and you have to put a lens on before loading the film or you ruin your film and then you can't change the lens until you've shot your entire roll. Well, theoretically you could attempt a very awkward change in a dark bag, but, no. So basically, the procedure is to view through the independent viewfinder, mount your lens of choice - and there are four - view through the viewfinder, fine tune and focus through the groundglass back,...Show more →
I briefly owned a Noblex Pro 175. That was 4 shots on 120 film. I think I only used it for 2 rolls before I moved it on.
Not sure why...
Sep 12, 2020 at 10:41 PM
p.802 #19Post your recent film shots!
Peter Figen wrote:
You guys need to drag out the ol' Fuji 617 which only gets four frames on a roll of 120 and you have to put a lens on before loading the film or you ruin your film and then you can't change the lens until you've shot your entire roll. Well, theoretically you could attempt a very awkward change in a dark bag, but, no. So basically, the procedure is to view through the independent viewfinder, mount your lens of choice - and there are four - view through the viewfinder, fine tune and focus through the groundglass back,...Show more →
You can save yourself the lens changing issue by getting the OG G617.....
But you still have the rest of the issues. And no ground glass.
You guys need to drag out the ol' Fuji 617 which only gets four frames on a roll of 120 and you have to put a lens on before loading the film or you ruin your film and then you can't change the lens until you've shot your entire roll. Well, theoretically you could attempt a very awkward change in a dark bag, but, no. So basically, the procedure is to view through the independent viewfinder, mount your lens of choice - and there are four - view through the viewfinder, fine tune and focus through the groundglass back,...Show more →
You can save yourself the lens changing issue by getting the OG G617.....
But you still have the rest of the issues. And no ground glass.
Sep 13, 2020 at 01:06 PM
