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nehemiahphoto wrote:
Thank you!
Yeah, sadly I am moving a couple times in the next couple months with a job switch and this COVID stuff, but I am excited to start processing on my own. I do have some questions for you film shooters if you'd lend me your experience/input.
1) Exposing/DR - I am used to exposing to save hightlights as shadows are so easy to bring up on current Sony fabricated sensors. I am used to sensors with 13.5-14.5 stops, and know exactly how to work with them.
With film, I know the DR is less (at least on 135mm), and with a different non-linear response in the lights and highlights So, how would I ensure the smoothest highlight roll off with scenes like that Mamiya 7 photo I posted above? I am not using an external meter, but both the Ikon (center weighted) and Mamiya (spot) have light meters. In short, how do I intelligently use the DR of film?
So, when shooting an "A" mode, which is my usual for film and digital, with digital I'll often shoot at "0" to "-1", but with film I should be shooting a "0" to "+1" EV, right?
2) I have a 73 Sonnetar. The frame line on my Ikon are 50/85mm. I am eye balling the difference, but after getting a couple rolls back back, I noticed my focus is off, even when shooting stationary subjects. Would my Ikon not be calibrated to 73mm lens, or do I have focus shift a specific picky lens to worry about?
3) What do you guys use to digitize your negatives? I have read about the Nikon ES-2, which seems to be for 35mm. I have an a7r2 and could easily pick up a macro, but I'd like to be able to scan my 135 and 120 film in a simple way (if possible). From what I have read, scanners seem big, larger, many are out of production not sure the quality is as high as an ES-2 type set up. Is this accurate?
Thanks much for the help! Happy to be corrected or pointed in the right direction....Show more →
Regarding #2, I have no experience with the Sonnetar 73mm but I was disappointed to find that my M-Hexanon lenses don’t focus accurate on any of my Leica bodies. This is a known issue though I’m also aware that some forum members are using M-Hexanons successfully on their M cameras.
As for #3, retrofocus is correct when he states that “This is a big area with multiple possibilities, and nearly everybody will recommend something else.” So here I go... Like retrofocus, I have a Plustek 8200 Ai, which I bought at an attractive price when I mistakenly thought my Coolscan 9000 had given up the ghost. The Coolscan produces slightly sharper output than the Plustek so I’ll keep using it for 35mm until it does finally fail and can’t be repaired. Although the Coolscan has the advantage of handling medium format negatives, I’ve decided to try scanning those with a Sony A7R4 using a Lomography DigitaLIZA. However, Hamish Gill, who runs the 35mmc blog, has designed a device called the PIXL-LATR which will handle 35mm, 120 rollfilm, and 4x5 negatives and I ordered one of these yesterday. Some late production issues and the coronavirus outbreak mean that I probably won’t receive mine for a few months but it does look promising.
Whichever method you decide upon I strongly recommend that, if you use Lightroom, you purchase Negative Lab Pro. USD99 might seem a lot for a plugin but it’s worth every cent. Currently I use Vuescan with both scanners to output a RAW DNG which I import into LR, open with NLP, and create a TIFF that I can then open in Photoshop, fuss around with, and send back to LR for final export. NLP also handles the output from digital cameras.
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