Post your recent film shots!
p.626 #1Post your recent film shots!
Peter Figen wrote:
That old film looks pretty darned vintage - much older than '83.
Here's a 4x5 Ektachrome I shot for Amway way back when. Cambo 4x5. Schneider 210mm 5.6 Symmar S.
That old film looks pretty darned vintage - much older than '83.
Here's a 4x5 Ektachrome I shot for Amway way back when. Cambo 4x5. Schneider 210mm 5.6 Symmar S.
Sep 19, 2016 at 09:12 PM
p.626 #2Post your recent film shots!
edwardkaraa wrote:
It was a happy accident I would say. I really like the surreal color 
The colors are not really that surreal. According to Wiki: '...The designers originally planned for the building to be clad entirely with hill country limestone quarried in Oatmanville (present-day Oak Hill), about 10 miles (16 km) to the southwest. However, the high iron content of the limestone led it to rapidly discolor with rust stains when exposed to the elements. Learning of the problem, the owners of Granite Mountain near Marble Falls offered to donate to the state, free of charge, the necessary amount of sunset red granite as an alternative. While the building is mostly built of the Oak Hill limestone, most of this is hidden behind the walls and on the foundations. Red granite was subsequently used for many state government buildings in the Austin area'.
Granted, my shooting a tungsten-balanced film without a filter leaves a cast but it's not that far removed from what I saw thru the reflex viewer on my Chamonix.
Kenj8246 wrote
The trouble is that I disovered, after the exposure was made, the film I thought was Vericolor was actually Fuji NPL160 quickloads. This is a tungsten balanced film that needs a warming filter to shoot it in natural light. Not knowing it was NPL, I didn't have the filter mounted. Brainfart, waht can I say?The colors are not really that surreal. According to Wiki: '...The designers originally planned for the building to be clad entirely with hill country limestone quarried in Oatmanville (present-day Oak Hill), about 10 miles (16 km) to the southwest. However, the high iron content of the limestone led it to rapidly discolor with rust stains when exposed to the elements. Learning of the problem, the owners of Granite Mountain near Marble Falls offered to donate to the state, free of charge, the necessary amount of sunset red granite as an alternative. While the building is mostly built of the Oak Hill limestone, most of this is hidden behind the walls and on the foundations. Red granite was subsequently used for many state government buildings in the Austin area'.
Granted, my shooting a tungsten-balanced film without a filter leaves a cast but it's not that far removed from what I saw thru the reflex viewer on my Chamonix.
Sep 20, 2016 at 08:43 AM
p.626 #3Post your recent film shots!
Kenj8246 wrote:
It was a happy accident I would say. I really like the surreal color The colors are not really that surreal. According to Wiki: '...The designers originally planned for the building to be clad entirely with hill country limestone quarried in Oatmanville (present-day Oak Hill), about 10 miles (16 km) to the southwest. However, the high iron content of the limestone led it to rapidly discolor with rust stains when exposed to the elements. Learning of the problem, the owners of Granite Mountain near Marble Falls offered to donate to the state, free of charge, the necessary amount of sunset red granite as an alternative. While the building is mostly built of the Oak...Show more →
Hope you don't mind Kenny but I could not resist making a simple tweak in Lightroom to correct that rather strong colour cast on your otherwise perfectly composed and exposed image - just love how much you can now do by combining digital with analogue
edwardkaraa wrote
Kenj8246 wrote
The trouble is that I disovered, after the exposure was made, the film I thought was Vericolor was actually Fuji NPL160 quickloads. This is a tungsten balanced film that needs a warming filter to shoot it in natural light. Not knowing it was NPL, I didn't have the filter mounted. Brainfart, waht can I say?Hope you don't mind Kenny but I could not resist making a simple tweak in Lightroom to correct that rather strong colour cast on your otherwise perfectly composed and exposed image - just love how much you can now do by combining digital with analogue
Sep 20, 2016 at 01:05 PM
p.626 #4Post your recent film shots!
Images taken are a mixture of Rolleiflex 2.8F (square images) or Pentax 67 with 105/2.4 (3:2 ratio) all on Ektar 100 self developed with the Fuji Hunt Kit and scanned with the Nikon Coolscan 9000
Originals at my flickr feed - https://www.flickr.com/photos/nico1974 and on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/nicoimages/
End of Summer by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Silver Birch by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Rainbow by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Pitfield Street by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Robot by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Crane by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Metalic by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Cells by Nicholas T, on Flickr
Originals at my flickr feed - https://www.flickr.com/photos/nico1974 and on Instagram https://www.instagram.com/nicoimages/
End of Summer by Nicholas T, on FlickrSilver Birch by Nicholas T, on FlickrRainbow by Nicholas T, on FlickrPitfield Street by Nicholas T, on FlickrRobot by Nicholas T, on FlickrCrane by Nicholas T, on FlickrMetalic by Nicholas T, on FlickrCells by Nicholas T, on FlickrSep 20, 2016 at 04:51 PM
p.626 #5Post your recent film shots!
Peter Figen wrote:
That old film looks pretty darned vintage - much older than '83.
Here's a 4x5 Ektachrome I shot for Amway way back when. Cambo 4x5. Schneider 210mm 5.6 Symmar S.
Yeah, I think it was sun roasted and toasted and attic stored in a hot climate
Very nice work by the way!
That old film looks pretty darned vintage - much older than '83.
Here's a 4x5 Ektachrome I shot for Amway way back when. Cambo 4x5. Schneider 210mm 5.6 Symmar S.
Yeah, I think it was sun roasted and toasted and attic stored in a hot climate
Very nice work by the way!
Sep 21, 2016 at 06:48 AM
p.626 #7Post your recent film shots!
Nico,
As always some great subjects captures & perfect color
Dan
As always some great subjects captures & perfect color
Dan
Sep 21, 2016 at 09:11 PM
p.626 #8Post your recent film shots!
Just awesome shots here, really inspiring! Just finished up 1600 miles around WA. This was an evening on Steptoe Butte South of Spokane. (think I need to start using fresh photoflo every time...)
Acros through Distagon 50 FLE
Acros through Distagon 50 FLE
Sep 21, 2016 at 10:39 PM
p.626 #9Post your recent film shots!
Hey guys / Nico, how can I get this Ektar to be more neutral? I'm getting results quite often that are too aqua/pink that seem to be un-fixable with any white balance settings in Vuescan or Lightroom?
here's an example;
same white balance but better;
Then a completely different day and roll that seemed to come out perfectly normal. I should double check as this may have been Portra but I get the same issue with Portra though less frequently. (could it be my lab?)
here's an example;
same white balance but better;
Then a completely different day and roll that seemed to come out perfectly normal. I should double check as this may have been Portra but I get the same issue with Portra though less frequently. (could it be my lab?)
Sep 22, 2016 at 08:05 AM
p.626 #10Post your recent film shots!
Found this on Facebook
Congratulations Peter! Amazing work.
https://m.facebook.com/stevehuffphoto/photos/a.154536744598751.40889.154367971282295/1183668378352244/?type=3&source=48
Congratulations Peter! Amazing work.
https://m.facebook.com/stevehuffphoto/photos/a.154536744598751.40889.154367971282295/1183668378352244/?type=3&source=48
Sep 22, 2016 at 10:55 AM
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p.626 #11Post your recent film shots!
Thatspeck wrote:
Hey guys / Nico, how can I get this Ektar to be more neutral? I'm getting results quite often that are too aqua/pink that seem to be un-fixable with any white balance settings in Vuescan or Lightroom?
I suffered the same issue with Ektar and Porta film after digitizing - Ektar often a bit too bluish/magenta in some shadow areas, Porta slight greenish tint. Best solution I found is to adjust the white balance in PS within the curve adjustments. Select a black point first (darkest area in the photo) and then the white point (brightest spot in the photo). Then you can also set a grey point which might be difficult since it might lead to a yellowish/orange cast if not done carefully. I often only set black and white points instead. In my experience you need to repeat this black/white point setting for every film which you developed yourself due to slight differences in each process. But for most frames of the same film this so achieved white balance setting should work. Afterwards you might need to adjust slightly the saturation levels of specific color channels - watch out for the blue, magenta, and red with Ektar and blue, cyan, green with Porta.
Hey guys / Nico, how can I get this Ektar to be more neutral? I'm getting results quite often that are too aqua/pink that seem to be un-fixable with any white balance settings in Vuescan or Lightroom?
I suffered the same issue with Ektar and Porta film after digitizing - Ektar often a bit too bluish/magenta in some shadow areas, Porta slight greenish tint. Best solution I found is to adjust the white balance in PS within the curve adjustments. Select a black point first (darkest area in the photo) and then the white point (brightest spot in the photo). Then you can also set a grey point which might be difficult since it might lead to a yellowish/orange cast if not done carefully. I often only set black and white points instead. In my experience you need to repeat this black/white point setting for every film which you developed yourself due to slight differences in each process. But for most frames of the same film this so achieved white balance setting should work. Afterwards you might need to adjust slightly the saturation levels of specific color channels - watch out for the blue, magenta, and red with Ektar and blue, cyan, green with Porta.
Sep 22, 2016 at 01:08 PM
p.626 #12Post your recent film shots!
Thatspeck wrote:
Hey guys / Nico, how can I get this Ektar to be more neutral? I'm getting results quite often that are too aqua/pink that seem to be un-fixable with any white balance settings in Vuescan or Lightroom?
here's an example;
https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8805/29771386621_3bc484b1e5_b.jpg
same white balance but better;
https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8061/29818910106_0d5e1653f9_b.jpg
Then a completely different day and roll that seemed to come out perfectly normal. I should double check as this may have been Portra but I get the same issue with Portra though less frequently. (could it be my lab?)
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8284/28352171342_10e6393baf_b.jpg
The colour casts in your images are not too bad are these commercial scans or did you scan yourself?
The easiest way to correct the scan is to open the TIFF or DNG (preferably 16bit) file up in Photoshop and then click on Image / Adjustments / Levels - then go and select the blue channel and move the sliders ever so slightly to get rid of the blue cast. You may also need to very marginally go into the green channel and tweak that a bit.
Edited on Sep 22, 2016 at 02:23 PM · View previous versions
Hey guys / Nico, how can I get this Ektar to be more neutral? I'm getting results quite often that are too aqua/pink that seem to be un-fixable with any white balance settings in Vuescan or Lightroom?
here's an example;
https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8805/29771386621_3bc484b1e5_b.jpg
same white balance but better;
https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8061/29818910106_0d5e1653f9_b.jpg
Then a completely different day and roll that seemed to come out perfectly normal. I should double check as this may have been Portra but I get the same issue with Portra though less frequently. (could it be my lab?)
https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8284/28352171342_10e6393baf_b.jpg
The colour casts in your images are not too bad are these commercial scans or did you scan yourself?
The easiest way to correct the scan is to open the TIFF or DNG (preferably 16bit) file up in Photoshop and then click on Image / Adjustments / Levels - then go and select the blue channel and move the sliders ever so slightly to get rid of the blue cast. You may also need to very marginally go into the green channel and tweak that a bit.
Edited on Sep 22, 2016 at 02:23 PM · View previous versions
Sep 22, 2016 at 02:14 PM
p.626 #13Post your recent film shots!
retrofocus wrote:
I suffered the same issue with Ektar and Porta film after digitizing - Ektar often a bit too bluish/magenta in some shadow areas, Porta slight greenish tint. Best solution I found is to adjust the white balance in PS within the curve adjustments. Select a black point first (darkest area in the photo) and then the white point (brightest spot in the photo). Then you can also set a grey point which might be difficult since it might lead to a yellowish/orange cast if not done carefully. I often only set black and white points instead. In my experience you...Show more →
Agree this is another great method of correcting colour casts - sometimes to be used in combination with individual levels correction
Thatspeck wrote
Hey guys / Nico, how can I get this Ektar to be more neutral? I'm getting results quite often that are too aqua/pink that seem to be un-fixable with any white balance settings in Vuescan or Lightroom?Agree this is another great method of correcting colour casts - sometimes to be used in combination with individual levels correction
Sep 22, 2016 at 02:17 PM
p.626 #14Post your recent film shots!
nicoimages wrote:
The easiest way to correct the scan is to open the TIFF or DNG (preferably 16bit) file up in Photoshop and then click on Image / Adjustments / Levels - then go and select the blue channel and move the sliders ever so slightly to get rid of the blue cast. You may also need to very marginally go into the green channel and tweak that a bit.
That's how I started out, too - but IMO it didn't work too well or it took very long to get to a reasonable result. Even after you have set the levels correctly (for decent contrast/brightness), you still need to tweak most of the color channels separately - and this is different from digitized frame to frame. I found the method with black and white (eventually grey) point setting much faster and more reliable - it avoids the level adjustment since it will be automatically set with the correct black/white points. And it is much less work to correct slightly the color channels afterwards. This at least from my experience.
The easiest way to correct the scan is to open the TIFF or DNG (preferably 16bit) file up in Photoshop and then click on Image / Adjustments / Levels - then go and select the blue channel and move the sliders ever so slightly to get rid of the blue cast. You may also need to very marginally go into the green channel and tweak that a bit.
That's how I started out, too - but IMO it didn't work too well or it took very long to get to a reasonable result. Even after you have set the levels correctly (for decent contrast/brightness), you still need to tweak most of the color channels separately - and this is different from digitized frame to frame. I found the method with black and white (eventually grey) point setting much faster and more reliable - it avoids the level adjustment since it will be automatically set with the correct black/white points. And it is much less work to correct slightly the color channels afterwards. This at least from my experience.
Sep 22, 2016 at 04:08 PM
p.626 #15Post your recent film shots!
Hell, I still shoot one shot in great light of a gray card to use as a baseline with any new film I use. Gets me close and I tweak from there.
Sep 22, 2016 at 05:58 PM
p.626 #16Post your recent film shots!
Thanks Retro, Nico and Kwoodward for the tips, soooo many variables with this, guess that's why I'm enjoying it so much
Yes, these I scanned on a NIkon 8000, don't think I will try C41 processing though it would be nice to have color negatives as flat as my home processed B&W's. Assume the lab must put them in the protective plastic before completely dry (but that's yet another issue...) I tweaked the blue and green down a little in LR (in the tone curve sliders, don't have PS but will study up on setting the white/black points), also reset the white balance to more the mid day sun it was. This one was a "worst case" for the Blue/magenta issue but I think I could live with this (maybe a little too green...). Will have to get a gray card eventually
Yes, these I scanned on a NIkon 8000, don't think I will try C41 processing though it would be nice to have color negatives as flat as my home processed B&W's. Assume the lab must put them in the protective plastic before completely dry (but that's yet another issue...) I tweaked the blue and green down a little in LR (in the tone curve sliders, don't have PS but will study up on setting the white/black points), also reset the white balance to more the mid day sun it was. This one was a "worst case" for the Blue/magenta issue but I think I could live with this (maybe a little too green...). Will have to get a gray card eventuallySep 22, 2016 at 09:24 PM
p.626 #17Post your recent film shots!
kwoodard wrote:
Hell, I still shoot one shot in great light of a gray card to use as a baseline with any new film I use. Gets me close and I tweak from there.
Yes, this works - as you said in good light. But you will face issues if the light conditions change during the course of taking photos with the same film. Then you need to re-adjust again as described above.
Hell, I still shoot one shot in great light of a gray card to use as a baseline with any new film I use. Gets me close and I tweak from there.
Yes, this works - as you said in good light. But you will face issues if the light conditions change during the course of taking photos with the same film. Then you need to re-adjust again as described above.
Sep 24, 2016 at 07:52 AM
p.626 #18Post your recent film shots!
retrofocus wrote:
kwoodard wrote
Hell, I still shoot one shot in great light of a gray card to use as a baseline with any new film I use. Gets me close and I tweak from there.That is true, but it will get you close.
Sep 24, 2016 at 09:35 AM
p.626 #19Post your recent film shots!
Lovely as usual Tim
mrladewig wrote:
timparkin wrote
All taken with my Ebony 45SU on Fuji Velvia (new version).Sep 25, 2016 at 05:19 AM
p.626 #20Post your recent film shots!
A couple more with the Fujifilm TX-1 (Xpan) and 45mm lens. Agfa Vista 200 film scanned with Nikon Coolscan 9000. Post-processed with Nik software (Viveza and Silver Efex Pro.
TX1-AgfaVista200-16-09-17-0013 Viveza by Paul Gabel, on Flickr
TX1-AgfaVista200-16-09-17-0017 zw by Paul Gabel, on Flickr
TX1-AgfaVista200-16-09-17-0013 Viveza by Paul Gabel, on Flickr
TX1-AgfaVista200-16-09-17-0017 zw by Paul Gabel, on Flickr
Sep 25, 2016 at 02:37 PM