The hippie thing was something I just threw together with one of my h.s. senior girls.
First shot of her posted was a bare 550 off camera flash due to the amount of ambient. The 2nd shot was with the 550 in a mini photoflex softbox. I threw some paint on the chair approx 3 days before, because I knew we would shoot some in that field.
The lab www.thedarkroom.com does my development and scanning. The scans aren't high enough for large prints. Basically 8x10's and down. Cost is good to. 10.00 per roll + 4.00 for shipping.
Simon, thanks. A few more?
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Tri-X that I developed and scanned on an Epson V600
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Thanks Pfiltz! I am really enjoying your work!
50mm Sekor? I know there is a f2.0 and a f4.5 variant, but there also is a "rumour" about a f1.7 and a 1.2 one, although the f1.2 probably is the f2.0 (1:2). Or did you find the missing lens?
Pfiltz wrote:
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Appreciate it. New to film.
All images shot with my RB67 w/50mm Sekor lens, Portra 160 converted to BW via LR3. My RB is my first film camera. Now I'm looking to move into 4x5
I usually strike up a conversation with all my subjects. Usually talk about where they're from, past work experience and so on..
ceder wrote:
Thanks Pfiltz! I am really enjoying your work!
50mm Sekor? I know there is a f2.0 and a f4.5 variant, but there also is a "rumour" about a f1.7 and a 1.2 one, although the f1.2 probably is the f2.0 (1:2). Or did you find the missing lens?
I think a 50mm f1.7 that could cover 6x7 would weigh as much as a desktop computer...
Thanks folks. If I know then what I know now, I may have bought a different MF camera. This damn thang is a beast, even with this little 50 on it. I move up to my 180mm, and it seems I add 20 more pounds to it..
Pfiltz, if you use the waistlevel instead of the prism the beast will weigh quite a bit less...
Agreed, but he didn't have one. I bought this guys whole kit. 3 lenses [50, 180, 250], filters, 3 backs, case, bag of film, etc....
I know I can go buy one, but I want to be 100% sure, I'm going to keep it. I really need another 120 back. I have (2) 220's, and don't really see me using them. I have slide film and color neg.
Simon Kennedy wrote:
Use Colorperfect.
That way you will get repeatability, and you can learn more accurately how a particular film will begave with a particular exposure in particular lighting. Also you will be able to fine tune your developing.
I was very close to buying it yesterday after Epson Scan went awol. But once I figured out how to get a true gray point the curves method now is very accurate. $67 for something I can do is just not worth it to me. And it doesn't help that I cannot fully evaluate colorperfect because of the ridiculous watermark. It seems to be a great program but with the curves/gray point method the colors were nearly identical.
Simon Kennedy wrote:
Nice shots though, I haven't personally seen an Aero Ektar used like that before.
Might have a go with the old Xenotar...
Thanks. The Xenotar should work some magic as well. If only they were sub $500... I have a Verito coming, hopefully that exceeds my expectations and I can put it to good use.
On another note, I did a developer test. Not a great one I'll admit but I wanted to see the differences between Rodinal 1:25, Rodinal Stand, Pyrocat 1:100, and Pyrocat HD 2 bath.
The Pyro 1:100 was the oddest as it didn't have the best shadow detail but also had the brightest highlights, too bright. Appeared sharper though, perhaps due to the increased contrast. Maybe my dilutions were off. Would be easy only using 60ml working solution.
Rodinal 1:25 was ok. A bit too bright in the highlights again but better than Pyro 1:100.
Rodinal Stand and Pyro 2 bath both looked awesome, to me. The highlights were kept incredibly well. And both had even development. Shadow detail was good and tonality better. Better range of tones too, as far as my scanner was telling me.
Really have to look close to see the differences. But under fairly subdued lighting I think it was telling enough. I am going to do some more comparisons in higher contrast scenes and try to iron out a process, probably between Rodinal stand and Pyro 2 bath. Both looked flat but had a broad range and the highlights weren't close to going, which is what I want.
I'll also have to try and compare my d300s and use it's spot meter to measure the zones so I have some idea of the scenes subject brightness range.
