^Agreed, I like how the board walk/ferris wheel are still visible in the background. Definitely want to try out an xpan at some point, they seem like a ton of fun to shoot.
Could you advise me on the Leica M6 and slide film? And scanning...
I started off with photography in the dark room with B&W, but since I did not have one myself, and since commercial labs were so disappointing when it came to negtive film (especially color!!), I shot slide film with a Canon EOS-3 until I started with digital. I like to have control of my exposure, and always spot-metered with the EOS-3, slow but accurate.
I long back to film, and might buy a M6. However, how is the metering? For negative film I am sure it is easy enough, but with slide film Maybe bad idea? (I will shoot both neg and slide, hopefully).
And until I get a scanner, I hope to use some online site - any advice? My "local" lab is silly expensive...
Congrats and good luck! But I really don't think it's that crazy . 4x5 film can be quite cheap especially how little of it you use comparatively. Just buy an 8x10 or larger camera and then 4x5 will suddenly seem so incredibly tame .
Zaitz wrote:
Congrats and good luck! But I really don't think it's that crazy . 4x5 film can be quite cheap especially how little of it you use comparatively. Just buy an 8x10 or larger camera and then 4x5 will suddenly seem so incredibly tame .
haha, I don't think so.
I bought a Sinar F and a Fuji 150/5.6. I think this is a fairly competent entry level kit; certainly not that expensive for the quality that that little Fuji seems to bring with it.
now to decide what film to start with; probably gonna just go with 400tx.
B&W from scanned color negatives, anyone doing that? Convert with NIK Silver?
On my EOS-3 it was so easy to swap film midroll, but what about the Leica M6?
Guess one alternative to several ISO films is to e.g shoot with Tmax 3200 and rate it at ISO 800 and use a 3-stop ND filter when outdoors, and shoot filterless indoors at ISO 800? I never shot with the Tmax, I used Tri or Neopan, what is the grain like at ISO 800?
I do B&W conversions on occasion, posted one upthread in fact, NPH converted to B&W. These days I use Silver Efex Pro for the conversions.
The M6 is significantly more trouble to swap rolls than the EOS 3. For ISO 800 you're better off shooting TMax 400 and pushing the extra stop (it's not even a push if you're using TMax Dev, which has the same time for 800 as 400 for TMax 400 and Tri-X 400).
TMax 3200 looks like crap when pulled. It looks like crap at film speed (around ISO 1250) and box speed as well. It's only advantage is it arguably looks less like crap than TMax 400 or Tri-X pushed to 3200 (personally I disagree and prefer slower film pushed, but that's a taste issue).
My normal solution is 2 bodies, one with low-speed film and one with HP5 at ISO 800 but I'm also using bodies without the M6's low max shutter (I'm shooting an FM2 and 2 Maxxum 7's, so my max shutter is 1/4000 or 1/8000)
Thanks mawz!!
Not sure why I am going back to film, seems such a hassle... Still, it's all about having fun. Guess I love resistance...
Cheers!
mawz wrote:
I do B&W conversions on occasion, posted one upthread in fact, NPH converted to B&W. These days I use Silver Efex Pro for the conversions.
The M6 is significantly more trouble to swap rolls than the EOS 3. For ISO 800 you're better off shooting TMax 400 and pushing the extra stop (it's not even a push if you're using TMax Dev, which has the same time for 800 as 400 for TMax 400 and Tri-X 400).
TMax 3200 looks like crap when pulled. It looks like crap at film speed (around ISO 1250) and box speed as well. It's only advantage is it arguably looks less like crap than TMax 400 or Tri-X pushed to 3200 (personally I disagree and prefer slower film pushed, but that's a taste issue).
My normal solution is 2 bodies, one with low-speed film and one with HP5 at ISO 800 but I'm also using bodies without the M6's low max shutter (I'm shooting an FM2 and 2 Maxxum 7's, so my max shutter is 1/4000 or 1/8000)...Show more →
I roll-switch in the M6 all the time, quite easy. I put a little sticker on it to remember what it goes to, and then usually wind on one extra for security.
zalmyb wrote:
First of all awesome shot, though the pretty good photo is slightly overshadowed by the uniqueness of the lens.
I saw this pop up on my "Flickr feed" and before isaw the title, I thought "that's got to be the aero Ektar"...
I've had my eye on that lens (even though I haven't the system for it yet!) for quite a while. It just seems so... magical. Thanks. I had been interested in it for a while and decided to give it a try. So I found a cheap Speed Graphic and got the shutter in working order. The SG allows me to be more spontaneous with 4x5 than was possible with the Heliar and 8x10. It is quite a unique lens being the approximate equivalent of a full frame 59mm f.9. Being it is a bit wider than I am used to for a 'portrait' lens, the working distance needs to be closer to really pull out the magic of the lens I feel.
I really wish more people would have recommended a Speed Graphic to me when I started 4x5. I've looked at so many barrel lenses with my old Crown and didn't consider them even though they are generally much cheaper. Being able to use them, and with so many more and faster shutter speeds on the Speed, is fantastic. I may try and find another beat up Speed to modify for movements. You can find them for ~$100 in beat up but workable condition. Many have 'stuck' or sticky shutters that only need to be worked into condition. I sat with mine for a good 4 hours and placed very very small drops of wd-40 here and there (seldom but enough) and the shutter slowly worked its way to life and is now consistent and fairly accurate.
And I am surprised you could tell the lens just from the photo!
the headline makes it sound like celluloid is going to be banned from importation or something. it's just a ridiculous alarmist piece anyway, there is a large contingency of important directors who still like film considerably more than digital.
I mean, photography may have put a real damper on painting but you can still get your supplies and I suspect you always will be able to.
Maybe bad idea? (I will shoot both neg and slide, hopefully).
. 4x5 film can be quite cheap especially how little of it you use comparatively. Just buy an 8x10 or larger camera and then 4x5 will suddenly seem so incredibly tame 
. 
