Yesterday, I added some minor adjustments to the negatives conversions with NLP and applied them across the roll. Some frames worked better than others. When converting the second roll, I only used the Linear Gamma profile with no other changes. Here are a few that I scanned this morning:
(I’m not even going to say that there’s something missing. (And in any event, I suspect he’s behind the tree, making full use of the natural cover, and ready to pounce like Cato in the Pink Panther movies.))
So many great pics in here lately, thanks everybody for sharing!
Love seeing the high quality of the black and white images posted here..
..apart from diving deeper into wet printing in my kitchen-darkroom I also tried to get some better files out of my old Quato Intelliscan (aka Plustek OpticFilm) in the last days.
Both the analogue printing as well as the scanning definitely feel like "work" at the moment, yet I feel that I'm learning as I go so it's all good. 🙂
@madNbad - thanks for sharing the details on your workflow, that's always very interesting / helpful!
Those negs developed in 110 always look nice and punchy; think I've mentioned before it was a long back and forth for me between this and the D-76 / ID-11 when settling for a developer I'd be using the next few months at least.
In the end I chose the latter, as I got the hunch that 110 would give me negs that are a bit too "bold" from the get go, especially as I'm using a condensor enlarger as well.
Yours do look really good though the way they are.
I'm gathering you scan them in color / raw, and then pull them through NLP, yes? I suppose this is the way to go if one wanted to really get the most out of the negs (I really dislike having to deal with NLP, on top of the headache that is SilverFast, though) 😅
@deadwolfbones ..such nice images, really like the vibe in these!
Tones are beautiful as well, so gentle.. kinda mak me consider using Kentmere 400 a bit (which I always wrote off as "not the real deal" / "not as good" as HP5 / Tri-X etc. - but am slowly seeing that it has it's own look that can work really well / look really nice in some situations (especially the mellow-light shots look very beautiful with it I find).
What developer / method are you using, if I may ask?
Nice shot @lakatua - and I'm kinda surprise how smooth this looks, considering the Delta 400 and XTOL 1:1 combo - I have the feeling things quickly get a bis crunchy when I use this..
Tina Kino wrote:
@deadwolfbones@ ..such nice images, really like the vibe in these!
Tones are beautiful as well, so gentle.. kinda mak me consider using Kentmere 400 a bit (which I always wrote off as "not the real deal" / "not as good", but am slowly seeing that is has it's own look that can work really well in some situations (especially the mellow-light shots look very beautiful with it I find).
What developer / method are you using, if I may ask?
Thank you! These were mailed off so I'm not sure, but I can ask the lab I used.
Tina Kino wrote:
@deadwolfbones@ ..such nice images, really like the vibe in these!
Tones are beautiful as well, so gentle.. kinda mak me consider using Kentmere 400 a bit (which I always wrote off as "not the real deal" / "not as good", but am slowly seeing that is has it's own look that can work really well in some situations (especially the mellow-light shots look very beautiful with it I find).
What developer / method are you using, if I may ask?
Try Kentmere 400. It is great. Image re-post but so you get the idea:
Tina Kino wrote:
@madNbad@ - thanks for sharing the details on your workflow, that's always very interesting / helpful!
Those negs developed in 110 always look nice and punchy; think I've mentioned before it was a long back and forth for me between this and the D-76 / ID-11 when settling for a developer I'd be using the next few months at least.
In the end I chose the latter, as I got the hunch that 110 would give me negs that are a bit too "bold" from the get go, especially as I'm using a condensor enlarger as well.
Yours do look really good though the way they are.
I'm gathering you scan them in color / raw, and then pull them through NLP, yes? I suppose this is the way to go if one wanted to really get the most out of the negs (I really dislike having to deal with NLP, on top of the headache that is SilverFast, though) 😅...Show more →
The First Scan with adjustments from the previous frame
On the previous frame, I boosted the contrast, lowered both the exposure and brightness settings. When applied to this image it blocked a lot of details and really bumped up the contrast.
Let NLP do it's thing
When I was converting images on the second roll, the results were better using only the Linear Gamma profile. I try to get the negative correctly exposed and avoid doing much post processing manipulation. The less I have to do in post makes it feel like I got it right the first time!
madNbad wrote:
I try to get the negative correctly exposed and avoid doing much post processing manipulation. The less I have to do in post makes it feel like I got it right the first time!
Yea, same here - that's what I would love as well, have a properly exposed negative and then "just" scan it without turning on too many knobs..
..yet (sadly) it doesn't work that way - the perfectly exposed Delta 400 negative has a different base than the perfectly exposed Tri-X negative, scenes and lighting vary a lot, etc. - I tried both ignoring any "film profiles" (so basically raw scanning and setting black and white points, adjusting curves..) or using the "Negafix" profiles built into SilverFast (for example).. and I had great success with both methods and also great failures with both approaches, and it just doesn't seem to be consistent / reliable, even when staying with the same film.
Which is one reason (the other being: wanting to get better at actual printing) why I really want to narrow it down for a while and so I intend to just shoot Tri-X and develop in ID-11 for the forseeable future.
