madNbad
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Tina Kino wrote:
I decided to get back into shooting and developing b&w myself after a fairly long hiatus, and tried to really make up my mind on what film and dev to use (never been really consistent with it in the past, frankly), so I spent the last week looking at myriads of images and reading a ton of stuff regarding dilutions, dev times, agitaion etc.
As a sidenote, this guy's comparison / review videos I've found rather helpful in this regard: The Naked Photographer
I can see how Tri-X may fail to look "exciting" or "inspiring".
Still it ended up on top of my list (actually shooting a roll of Delta 400, Hp5, T-Max 400 and Tri-X side by side right now; will develop them all the same and then hopefully be wiser / able to decide what to settle on : )
As always, it obviously depends on what mood you're going for, I'd say Tri-X just lends itself very much to an understated, "classic" vibe. That will be even more pronounced the less spectacular the light is.
Are both your shots developed with the same developer? They look so different..
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Nice shots, I appreciate how Rodinal looks sometimes in other people's shot, yet don't "dare" to use it myself, it's so brutal 😅
XT-3 is basically the same thing as XTOL, right?
While I haven't decided on what film to use yet I did settle on XTOL, found this gives kind of the classic look, but with a little bit more of an "edge" (compared to HC-110 / D-76).
Please post more Tri-X / XT-3 examples, if you like!
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I received some good advice from a member on a different forum about exposing then developing Tri-X in Rodinal. First is the Rodinal speed tax. I was originally exposing Tri-X at box speed but it worked much better when it was shot at ISO 200. Consistently in development, time, temperature and agitation. Originally, I was using a 1:25 dilution but the negatives were a little thick. I changed to 1:50 and had a nice, easily scannable negative. The biggest change was agitation. I値l start with thirty seconds of gentle agitation then invert the tank three times every minute.
When I moved to the D-76 clone, I followed the same process and now that I知 using Adox XT-3 (Xtol) it works for it, too.
Currently, I have a handful of emulations in the refrigerator, Pan F, FP-4, HP-5, some Acros II but mostly Tri-X. When the Ilford stock is gone, most likely I値l just stay with Tri-X.
I致e been using color film lately but should have some new Tri-X images by next week. Thanks for asking.
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