I jumped out of my van today and shot this image with the 450, 10-22 @ ISO 800.hand held.
The wind was really blowing so take no notice of the grass movement. I`m impressed with the result (after PP) yes there is some noise in the sky and the exposure isn`t spot on but the DR isn`t bad at all. Probably would have been better with highlight tone turned on but I don`t like how it affects the colours in the 1dsmk3 and didn`t have my grads with me.
After handling the camera for a couple of days I`m really getting to know my way around and find it very good. I`ve added the BG-E5 battery grip and it has transformed the handling(I have fairly big hands) but the vertical shutter release is very nice + the other vertical controls. I`ve stopped using my 17-40 on my FF camera because of CA and edges and will have no problem using the 10-22 on the 450 when needed. In fact the combo of the 450 + 10-22 is still so light I`ll consider carrying it in my canvas shoulder bag when walking around with the 1dsmk3 + 35-70 Contax as a quick access to a WA lens. Maybe I`m a bit too taken with the 450(honeymoon and all that) but in general the results I`m seeing are going towards a lower res 1dsmk3(can`t believe I just said that)
Anyway here is the link to a raw to download @ 800iso just take it for what it is( a quick snapshot) and please come back and tell me what I`m missing) http://www.savefile.com/files/1578367
That looks great, especially once DPP chromatic aberration correction is applied. It still has a grainier look than a 5D, as you would expect, and perhaps because of that it lacks a sense of 3D, or perhaps that's the lens. I would be really interested to see what it can do through a Zeiss 21. Maybe I will treat myself to a 450 as an extra backup.
I would imagine the 21 would really make that chip shine. I make you absolutely right about the lens over AA filter. I found that out with Contax lenses on my 1dsmk3, from being a bit upset to WOW. My better lenses are great on the 450. It`s just one of those cameras that come along now and then that is just enjoyable to use. I think it might just be that you are not expecting too much so you relax and just enjoy getting your rocks off.
Q.
I always had great results hand holding a Leica M series (obviously no mirror slap etc)but how much of that is due to not having to support a brick while waiting for the moment to press the shutter release. I`ve been doing a bit of testing, handholding the 450 vs the 1dsmk3. Yes the bulk and weight of the 1 series does tend to absorb some movement and you can easily get carried away with the light weight of a camera like the 450 and need to just settle down (after years of supporting the brick you tend to over compensate) I found that if I bring the 1 series up to my eye then I really need to be pressing that release pretty soon( I may be getting on but have always had strong arms) there seems to be a break even point where the arm can hold an item steady and it seems like the 450 falls just below that weight where as the 1 series is above the weight. I`ve added the battery grip to the 450 and IMHO it brings it nearer to the optimum weight.
I don't find camera weight makes much difference. I think this is because I use bracing techniques: elbows in to chest, support with both hands and brow, relax, squeeze don't press, and if possible rest elbows on something steady. I quite often put the camera on my shoulder and look sideways through it. Another good method if you're using AF is to grip right shoulder with left hand and rest camera and lens in the crook of the elbow. The arm is supported at both ends which works very well. I agree that hands get shaky with heavier gear, but muscle vibration is compensated, to some extent, by the increased inertia of the camera. Liveview is a different matter, and keeping one elbow in to chest is crucial. Faster speeds or IS are often required.
Edited by brainiac on May 29, 2008 at 09:41 AM GMT
I have not gotten grip for Xsi yet. However, for the Xti I had, I never take the grip off for the balance reason. I would imagine the new grip works just as well too with Canon E-1 hand strap.
To be honest Dave, the legibility still sucks big time. One major reason for that is that in the stylesheet http://css.pbase.com/styles/76832.css
some webby cowboy with no understanding of the destructive forces unleashed when his own ignorance is combined with the power of CSS, has crudely modified important metrics that a screen type designer has spent years honing and paring down. The main culprit is the line that sets 3 pixels of additional letter-spacing in the body block:
/* Main body of the page */
body {
font: 8pt/16pt arial;
color: #FFFFFF;
letter-spacing : 3px;
background: #000000;
}
However, a non-serif typeface for body text, inadequate leading, and lines too wide to allow the eye to jump to the begninning of the next, don't help. The face should be Georgia if the type is in danger of being this wide, or at least Verdana if the designer really thinks she's too cool to use a serif for body, and the only typographic metric that might need adjustment is the leading, which should be increased considerably to compensate for the long lines.
The letter spacing is hurting the eye's ability to recognise word shapes, which is partly how we read, and the movement from one word to the next overshoots a bit and then jerks back as the eye realises that word gaps aren't much bigger than the kerning. The lack of serifs and use of the awful Arial, combined with inadequate leading and long lines means that it is very hard to see and follow a line, or find the beginning of the next. That's why the whole page looks ugly, and without even knowing why, many visitors will decide not to read it as soon as they get a bit of motion sickness on line 3.
When it`s explained like that(by someone that obviously knows a thing or two about reading text) It all becomes clear why I`ve struggled many many times to read web pages. The main thing I`ve come up against is as you have pointed out the follow on from line to line, having to even resort to using the cursor as a marker.
Actually you do see this in magazines at times but I suppose they are tight for space?
On the whole, magazines do a pretty good job because people pay for them. They usually have a properly trained typographer handle the layout, and he will be familiar with the phenomena and terms I described. Newspapers are also a very good guide, generally, as they have to present a lot of text. Most books too. Execrable typography has been one of the few downsides of the desktop publishing and web revolutions, and it's really unnecessary because the physiological and physical rules that govern good typography are simple to understand and experiment with. At my school, the last item on the house rules list was 'Ignorance of these rules is no excuse for breaking them'.
Incidentally, FM could be more legible if the leading was increased a bit. I actually think Trebuchet is more legible for body than Verdana.
To bring it back on topic after a few weeks, my father fell off a boat with his 400D/17-55 around his neck. He's OK at least. My sisters and I have bought him a 450D/XSi as a birthday replacement and I have been playing with it.
All I can say is that it is a wonderful camera and image quality nearly rivals a 5D. Liveview really helps for focussing alt lenses, and in use it works just like a tiny version of my 1Ds3. I'm not finding it too hard to focus alts through the viewfinder either. Even the kit lens is impressive. It has to be in order to satisfy a 5.2 micron pitch. I could quite happily work with this camera for good. Incredible value for money. If this is the entry model, the 5D2 is going to have to be impressive.
Well. Looks like this is my point and shoot (with 24-105). May have to sell my G kit to fund it, though. Oh well, maybe I'll hold if till the price drops a little and shoot some more film in the meantime. Oh for a FF digital G3.
Does the XSi meter okay with focus confirmation adapters? The focus conf. adapters work fine on my 1Ds3, but when shot on the 5D or 40D they over expose by 1 stop for each step stopped down. In other words an adapter code from 35mm F2 will over expose by one stop when the aperture ring is set to F2.8, etc. I want to use the XSi with a couple manual lenses as a poor man's M8. If the metering is wonky, that throws a wrench into the works.
I have had the 350D, 400D and now the 450D, and like you say, the camera overexposes with stop down. I guess the upside is the 1Ds3 doesn't expose incorrectly, but why the difference?
I haven't the faintest clue why... Well, that bums me out because I just bought a XSi... Like you said, the 1Ds3 does fine. Evaluative, center, spot - they're all fine.
I have a 35L, so that may be the way to go with the XSi, but I really wanted a petite lens on the XSi - and something that "draws" different than Canon. Not necessarily stealth mode, but just something small that doesn't attract attention like a 1Ds3.
There's more adapters laying around on the desk than I can count - I swear they breed and multiply! They're mostly the HappyHageHK variety, but there's AF conf Hoada laying around somewhere. Or maybe it's Fotodiox one... I dunno... I'll report back in a couple weeks.
John Black wrote:
...I really wanted a petite lens on the XSi...
A pancake is very nice on the XSi/450D. The Oly 28f3.5 made it a very cute package. The problem is that for general purpose I want a 35mm equivalent focal length. 50 is too narrow for me. There are only two games in town for pancakish wides: Oly 24 f2.8 and Oly 21 f3.5. How I wish Canon would produce a pancake EF-S 20mm or 24mm f2 or f2.8. I am sure it can be done, when you consider what they cram into the kit lens.
As regards auto exposure, I didn't notice any exposure problems with my shots above. One adaptor was 'focon', the other wasn't. Have you tried setting metering to average?
The XSi should be here at the end of week, or maybe early next week after the holiday. I have plenty of adapters to test with, so focus confirmation & metering part should go quickly.
I should qualified "petite" --- something about the size & weight of a Canon 50mm F1.4 is petite. I've been thinking the Leica 28mm Elmarit (current version) because it could pull double duty on the 1Ds3. Or, a Leica 35/2's for the slightly more neutral feel and thinner DOF (than 28mm).
I've even thought the 35/1.4 CZ or a Leica 35 Summilux, but they aren't much smaller or lighter than Canon 35L. Still, I'd love to have something that fast on the Rebel. The added brightness when focusing would be beneficial.
Oh well, maybe I'll hold if till the price drops a little and shoot some more film in the meantime. Oh for a FF digital G3.
I'll report back in a couple weeks.