Well, my google search of FM didn't pan out (and I wasn't about to attempt a FM search of FM, especially given all the threads on the Forum & Misc subforum...) on this. As much as I like the quality of light from my softbox, I hate it going everywhere
Are there any DIY alternatives to the honeycomb grids for softboxes? I'd love to get the 36x48 grid for my softbox, but I believe the cheapest one I found is from Photoflex which is around $200. Oddly enough, their next smaller size grid for the med softbox is only ~$100. I could justify the latter's cost, but not the former's. I could get one of the smaller ones and only velcro it to 2 sides (and put black felt across the rest of the softbox),
Are there any DIY, alternative options that anyone's used? I looked at Domke inserts, but nothing comes close to that size.
break out the sewing machine. cut strips of black cloth approx 2 inch in width, sew in a piece of string on one end so that it will be on the inside when you sew the sides together. pull string to pull tube inside of itself, and cut string off. Assemble tubes into the grid for what ever size you need. sew on a border attach velcro and voila. softbox grid. maybe $30.00 in material
ent2b wrote:
As much as I like the quality of light from my softbox, I hate it going everywhere
There's a reason SB grids or egg crates are expensive. They are tedious and difficult to construct.
You might consider flagging your soft box until you are rich and famous enough to afford the real deal. Thick foam insulation from Lowes or HD that is sprayed black on one side makes a very cheap and effective cutter or oversized barndoor. Controlling spill is certainly one of the most effective ways to improve a studio produced image. Often times removing light is every bit as important as applying it.
Although cutters and barndoors are not a true replacement for egg crates on a SB or any other modifier (since grids also effect light quality), it's seems like spill control is your primary concern and this can be addressed by other means that are far more cost effective.
Good luck on your DIY project. And let us know when your first run of sub $100 Alien Eggs come to market.
I used black foam core and a mat cutter to make mine for the 30x40 & 12x 20 boxes that I have. After I cut the peices I used pins to hold it together and glued everything up.
This is an image taken with the 10x20:
I don't think there's a good DIY solution, because the grids themselves are quite complex; in the end, I broke down and bought one for my softbox. These days, I rarely shoot without it; they are incredibly helpful, and give you total control over your light. If you can make the investment, I would go for it.
lordarka wrote:
I don't think there's a good DIY solution, because the grids themselves are quite complex; in the end, I broke down and bought one for my softbox. These days, I rarely shoot without it; they are incredibly helpful, and give you total control over your light. If you can make the investment, I would go for it.
Arka C.
I have a pair for my chimera's. They suck up a lot of light and leave gridded cathlights. I hardly use them, but when I need them, they are invaluable.
This is gonna sound counterproductive but check into Amvona selling SB's on eBay. Most if not all their SB's come with grids. I've picked up Amvona SB's on eBay for obscenely low prices (like $50 for a 5' octobox). They also come with the Calumet speedring.
regards,
Jon
LABRIEDL, I'm trying to figure out what you are describing, but I'm lost. What are the tubes for? How about the string? Can you clarify?
Am I the only one that does not understand the build explanation?
I was going to build one for my photoflex Med SB with 2" strips of black cloth and sandwiching interlaced 2" beads of hot glue as opposed to sewing it. What do you guys think?
DIY softbox grids....i can get them done for under $1. Go to any store that sells lots and lots of cups. They have the grids premade for the packing of cups and the fold up too! Just get one or two and tape them together!!!
Black construction paper, that is cut and taped together, will do the trick. You will to figure out, how to mount it to your own soft box.
If you say it can't be done, well, go ahead and spend a fortune on them. I have them mounted on mine. (My softbox stays in the studio, so it doesn't go anywhere.)
Someoene will also comment about heat. Well, it's so "far away" heat is not an issue. (The front fabric would have burned a long time ago, if there was a heat issue.) I have WL Utra 1800 units.
As far as "grids" go, who says they have to be "square?" Just like Dragonfly mentioned. Think about that for a moment. Just make "black circles" with construction paper and tape them together. Does the same thing.
Do I have a photo to show you? Nope! Just do a Google search for photo grids and you'll get many hits. Mine look like the ones you see that sell for $200-300. Just a heck of a lot cheaper!
I like to experiment with DIY stuff. If it works, then great! If not, I go back to the drawing board. When I shot with my 4x5 large format (those of you that did) , we always made something, to get the desired effect.
Josh - that's kinda along the lines of what I was thinking. But, they aren't that thick.
Marian - that's a lot of construction paper! seriously though, thanks for the input!
LABRIEDL - I didn't quite understand what you were saying either.
Ok...one general question...when they say "40 degree" grid, is that the angle from the center of a square grid (as you are looking directly at the sbox) out to the opposite corner edges or the midpoints of the edges (a conical angle)?
Thanks for the responses, folks! Arka - we need to chat soon!
Someone made one and written an article.. but I can't find the article.. only a few photos that were included in the article.... this may give you new idea?
You can go to Home Depot and get the white plastic flourescent lighting grids. They come in 2x4 feet sheets in a grid pattern made of 1/2 inch squares. Cut the sheets to size or glue multiple sheets together if you need something larger. Paint the sheets with matte black paint and glue Velcro strips along the edge to attach it to the softbox. If you need more directivity you can place one sheet over the other to increase the thickness which is about 1/2 inch or so. They are a bit heavier then a cloth grid, so you may need to put a light stand under it to give added support if your softbox cannot handle it. The sheets run about $5 each plus the cost of the paint, glue and velcro. They work quite well.
As for the string. that's so once you sew up the edge you can easily turn the tube you made inside out. Iron it and now you have a long rectangle with the raw edge of the seam on the inside. then assemble the grid and hot glue in place and then sew it up so that it doesn't come apart.
I haven't tried it yet but that's how I'd do it when I get a soft box.
The flourescent lighting grids that are in Home Depot are the right idea, but extrememly heavy, to mount to a softbox. I thought of that, a long time agao, when I saw them.
The construction paper I bought was at a craft shop. $4.00 for a thick pack of black paper, which is about 11x17, I think. From these, you can cut any size strips you want 2 inch, 3 inch, etc. You can make them deep or shallow. Your choice
Again, all these ideas are good, but everyone has a different softbox and flash. So, some tinkering and "thinking outside the box" will do it!
ent2b wrote:
Ok...one general question...when they say "40 degree" grid, is that the angle from the center of a square grid (as you are looking directly at the sbox) out to the opposite corners (diagonal angle) or the midpoints of the edges (a conical angle)?
john - but where is the center of the spread of light? are the numbers in reference to light coming out of the entire softbox will only spread to 40 deg (etc) wide (like a honeycomb grid on a reflector) or is it talking about the light spread in any given grid "square"?
seriously though, thanks for the input!