cactusclay wrote:
Thanks John, that sounds much better, but all I saw on that link, was the cron. Anyone know what the deal is for shipping to the states from that HK outfit?
I just ordered my apo 75/2 from HK Supplies, too... Did Leica raise the price when they introduced the coding? I thought I saw something about that, and it occured to me that there may be a limited time window to get an uncoded one for a little less. (No point sitting on our two coding vouchers, might as well use them!)
As I get it the f-stop saved in the exif is calculated by the ratio between the light going through the lens (by the internal lightmeter / the white lamel) and the light mesured in the external lightmeter.
I would gess that the used f-stop therefore would be also in the exif of all images, no matter if the lens is coded or not
I was lucky and my 50 is allready coded but I asked/insisted on it.
If you are buying from HKS, you can get slightly lower prices by buying outside of ebay. The Nocti is listed as $3020 + $60 shipping on ebay. I had the choice of $3030 uncoded, $3180 coded, both shipping included.
In the end, I bought uncoded and may have them coded the next time I am sending something off to Solms. Doesn't look like there's free coding here in the UK. However, during this transition period from uncoded to coded, one UK retailer is selling uncoded lenses for the old price with a upgrade voucher at Leica UK.
Edited by Mark Norton on Oct 16, 2006 at 02:07 PM GMT
Still shooting Canon digital... Sold my 'Blads a while back but I've still got my Leica M3 and M6TTL, along with 24, 35, 50 and 90 Leica lenses from film days, but haven't shot with them in some time... The R-D1 just didn't work for me, so I'm looking forward to the M8.
I see you have purchased the 50 1.4 Lux ASPH. I'm sitting on the fence right now about upgrading my Summicron. I had previously owned the Noct and Cron combination, but sold the Noct when I stopped shooting film (my review of the Noctilux can be found here). However, my question for others on this thread is: which to choose between the ASPH and the older Lux? I am certain the new lens is sharper wide open, but my biggest concern is bokeh/fingerprint. (As far as sharpness goes, the Summicron is just dandy.) I tried the CV 50 Nokton--a fine lens as Sean has said, but with a much "harsher" bokeh wide open. For me this is a big deal.
I'd appreciate any thoughts on the bokeh differences at wide apertures between the 50 Lux ASPH and 50 Lux... Thanks!
t_streng wrote:
As I get it the f-stop saved in the exif is calculated by the ratio between the light going through the lens (by the internal lightmeter / the white lamel) and the light mesured in the external lightmeter.
I think there's still confusion over whether the blue dot does allow the camera to estimate working aperture. I don't think I'll believe it until I see it with my own eyes and see how the camera handles some duct-tape over the sensor!
Welcome Gary. Nice to have another victim onboard. Sounds like a good collection of lenses.
By the way, I'm sure that you THINK that you have everything you need for your M8. But if you value your bank account and credit card balances, you may wan't to avoid Guy's threads here.
Mark Norton wrote:
I think there's still confusion over whether the blue dot does allow the camera to estimate working aperture. I don't think I'll believe it until I see it with my own eyes and see how the camera handles some duct-tape over the sensor!
LFI was 100% clear: the blue dot is an external light sensor to calculate actual aperture with a +/- 1 stop exactitude.It took them a whole paragraph to elaborate on it. I know there are some contrary rumours are flying, but those are but rumours.
jaapv wrote:
LFI was 100% clear: the blue dot is an external light sensor to calculate actual aperture with a +/- 1 stop exactitude.It took them a whole paragraph to elaborate on it. I know there are some contrary rumours are flying, but those are but rumours.
Hi guys:
What happens if you have a heavy filter (such as polarizer) in place? The light reaching the internal light meter would be very different than the external meter, which would lead the EXIF data to report the wrong f stop used.
Regards
Dave G.
Correct, it will be off by a number of stops. On a manual aperture camera one runs into the limitations of the compromise fairly quickly.Frankly the feature is fairly unimportant to the " classic" M user. More importantly, it will be used to correct the file for vignetting and CA. So best shoot RAW in those circumstances (or any circumstances imho)
I too have ordered an M8
Sold my G2 and my Rd-1 to reduce the pain
I'm thinking of selling the XPan too
I am trusting that Sean Read's "between the lines" review of the image quality and Leicas need to get it right will pay off. I'd like to be shooting, not thinking about it
Guy, good thing your lens is coded.
I think one could survive with only 2 lenses:
24 and 50 or 28 and 50 (in my case)
a wider lens, the 35 and a 75 will be the add ons (in my case)
Anyone have experience with the older 50mm summilux? I've found one in very good condition and it was made in 1973. Does it have a nice bokeh/look?
The new 50mm summilux ASPH is out of the question for me.
That is a very good lens. Although it does not have the extreme correction of the asph, which is simply the best 50 mm ever built by anybody, it is a close second. Slightly more flare (although still in the superleague) slightly less contrast, excellent(wide open) to superb ( stopped down to 2.8) sharpness, I cannot see you being disappointed by it. In fact some users prefer the more gentle fingerprint of the older version.
jaapv wrote:
LFI was 100% clear: the blue dot is an external light sensor to calculate actual aperture with a +/- 1 stop exactitude.It took them a whole paragraph to elaborate on it. I know there are some contrary rumours are flying, but those are but rumours.
The aperture being used is not in the EXIF data according to the instruction manual. Maybe this was a feature that had to be dropped during the M8 development. Not a real big deal.
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