I was checking the sekonic site, and I couldn't find the L-608. I thought this was there top-end meter? Did they replace it with the 558? Or is that a different meter?
I couldn't tell you which is the newer one, but I've used the 558, and I like it a lot. If I needed a spot meter more in my life, I would get one. (As it is I just use the L-358).
The L-608 was replaced by the 558. the only difrance is the spot meter. the L-608 has a zoom of 1-4 degree and the 558 is a fixed spot of 1 degrees and slightly more sesiitve to light and less expensive.
Stevenmrt wrote:
The L-608 was replaced by the 558. the only difrance is the spot meter. the L-608 has a zoom of 1-4 degree and the 558 is a fixed spot of 1 degrees and slightly more sesiitve to light and less expensive.
thanks steven
I see you have the L-608. Do you use this zoom function?
In other words, would you go for a used 608 or a new 558?
it's easer to be more precise in your calcuation of ratios and determing the overall tones by being able to zoom in on just the right spot without interverance from other aspects of light. the 5degree is like a wide angle lens it takes it all in. A 1 degree allows me to narrow the field to precisly where I want to measure without interferance from overpowering light within my scene.
I'm just a control freak and the boy scout motto " Be prepared" the zoom is my personel preferance and I believe in getting as much control over producing images as one can afford. otherwise a person may find that a 1 degree spot is just what they needed for a particular situation and will be left in the cold. when if they could have afforded that extra $200 to begin with they would have had the 1 degree spot. now that person would have to spend $600 for an entiley new meter to get the 1 degree spot.
it's easer to be more precise in your calcuation of ratios and determing the overall tones by being able to zoom in on just the right spot without interverance from other aspects of light. the 5degree is like a wide angle lens it takes it all in. A 1 degree allows me to narrow the field to precisly where I want to measure without interferance from overpowering light within my scene.
I'm just a control freak and the boy scout motto " Be prepared" the zoom is my personel preferance and I believe in getting as much control over producing images as one can afford. otherwise a person may find that a 1 degree spot is just what they needed for a particular situation and will be left in the cold. when if they could have afforded that extra $200 to begin with they would have had the 1 degree spot. now that person would have to spend $600 for an entiley new meter to get the 1 degree spot....Show more →
Let me rephrase the question. What can't I do with a 1 degree spot (L558) that you can do with a 5 degree spot (L0608)?
ChrisEOS wrote:
How do I check if my light meter is accurate?
If your camera's meter is not accurate, how do you calibrate?
stick in directly under the sun, set the shutter speed and the iso to the same, (ie 125), If its a clear sunny day with no clouds obstructing you, it should read F/16. If its off from that, the meter is off. Some can be recalibrated in meter, other have to be sent out, or you could just know its off a 1/3 stop or whatever
Thiers times when I just want a quick overall reading of say a doorframe and the entry. keep in mind I would be shooting in close proxemity to the subject and my 10D does not have a true spot meter. and when I do setup on a tripod my RZ or a 4x5 I still prefer to have the flexability of zooming in or out to capture the best reading of my subject far and near.
I have no problems with the 558 I think it is a great meter. I just prefer the zoom. like I said before I'm just a control freak and I stick to the motto of be prepared.
RDKirk wrote:
Let me rephrase the question. What can't I do with a 1 degree spot (L558) that you can do with a 5 degree spot (L0608)?
See what part of the scene you are looking at. Sometimes I can't tell where I am in an image with a 1 degree, it is zoomed in too close. I pull back,find the right area, then zoom in. Like binoculars that are too strong. Huh, what am I looking at? Where'd that bird go?
Take a reading that balances out light and dark, like on strongly side-lit grass. Do you want light, dark? Sometimes both.
Sort of like a 1x1, 3x3, or 5x5 sample in photoshop. The smaller selection can bounce all over the place depending on exactly *which* pixel you pick, even in an area that looks homogenous.
the zoom is my personel preferance and I believe in getting as much control over producing images as one can afford. otherwise a person may find that a 1 degree spot is just what they needed for a particular situation and will be left in the cold. when if they could have afforded that extra $200 to begin with they would have had the 1 degree spot. now that person would have to spend $600 for an entiley new meter to get the 1 degree spot.