Black Coating Issues Type Z?
p.2 #1Black Coating Issues Type Z?
rscheffler wrote:
But rather than adapting the RF 50/1/2's hood I bought a cheap 1" metal screw-on 77mm hood and leave it pretty much permanently attached.
That made me shudder tbh
I now purposefully avoid doing that with AF lenses - not so bothered about MF lenses. But screwing a metal hood directly to the filter thread seriously stresses me out, any knocks will reverberate and transcend throughout the AF system and optical train.
Isn’t this exactly the reason why hoods are coupled via the lens body to actively avoid the above scenario ever happening??
If I had to go that route I’d use rubber hoods that soften any impact and act like a huge rubber bumper 🤣👍🏻
Oct 17, 2026 at 01:08 AM
p.2 #2Black Coating Issues Type Z?
The color makes no difference with this lens. We deploy them at work and they're as solid in outdoor events as they are indoors. Plus, if you're a longtime Canon shooter, expect a wave of sentimentality to wash over you when you unbox it. It was like holding a magic drainpipe again (that's lighter, better, has a longer range, and takes the TCs, of course).
Oct 17, 2026 at 01:18 AM
p.2 #3Black Coating Issues Type Z?
Pixelpuffin wrote:
That made me shudder tbh
I now purposefully avoid doing that with AF lenses - not so bothered about MF lenses. But screwing a metal hood directly to the filter thread seriously stresses me out, any knocks will reverberate and transcend throughout the AF system and optical train.
Isn’t this exactly the reason why hoods are coupled via the lens body to actively avoid the above scenario ever happening??
If I had to go that route I’d use rubber hoods that soften any impact and act like a huge rubber bumper 🤣👍🏻
I'll take my chances. IMO the main benefit of the supplied bayonet style hoods is that they're fast to deploy and reversible. But they're too bulky unless you downsize to the 50/1.2's hood, if it fits the Z (it fits the other 70-200s). The EF 85/1.4's hood would be another option in place of the 50/1.2's.
An internal zoom/focusing lens like the 70-200Z's filter threads are connected to the same part of the lens body as the hood bayonet flanges, so shock transfers through the same areas of the lens, granted the slightly looser bayonet connection combined with a more deformable plastic hood may mitigate impacts slightly more.
I used to use the Mamiya 77mm collapsible rubber hood. It was very well made, robust and held its shape because of a metal reinforcement ring at the front. Most rubber hoods are thin and too easily deformable. Alas the Mamiya hoods were discontinued over 10 years ago and those I have all wore out long ago.
rscheffler wrote
But rather than adapting the RF 50/1/2's hood I bought a cheap 1" metal screw-on 77mm hood and leave it pretty much permanently attached.I now purposefully avoid doing that with AF lenses - not so bothered about MF lenses. But screwing a metal hood directly to the filter thread seriously stresses me out, any knocks will reverberate and transcend throughout the AF system and optical train.
Isn’t this exactly the reason why hoods are coupled via the lens body to actively avoid the above scenario ever happening??
If I had to go that route I’d use rubber hoods that soften any impact and act like a huge rubber bumper 🤣👍🏻
I'll take my chances. IMO the main benefit of the supplied bayonet style hoods is that they're fast to deploy and reversible. But they're too bulky unless you downsize to the 50/1.2's hood, if it fits the Z (it fits the other 70-200s). The EF 85/1.4's hood would be another option in place of the 50/1.2's.
An internal zoom/focusing lens like the 70-200Z's filter threads are connected to the same part of the lens body as the hood bayonet flanges, so shock transfers through the same areas of the lens, granted the slightly looser bayonet connection combined with a more deformable plastic hood may mitigate impacts slightly more.
I used to use the Mamiya 77mm collapsible rubber hood. It was very well made, robust and held its shape because of a metal reinforcement ring at the front. Most rubber hoods are thin and too easily deformable. Alas the Mamiya hoods were discontinued over 10 years ago and those I have all wore out long ago.
Oct 17, 2026 at 10:27 AM
|
p.2 #4Black Coating Issues Type Z?
rscheffler wrote:
Pixelpuffin wrote
rscheffler wrote
But rather than adapting the RF 50/1/2's hood I bought a cheap 1" metal screw-on 77mm hood and leave it pretty much permanently attached.I now purposefully avoid doing that with AF lenses - not so bothered about MF lenses. But screwing a metal hood directly to the filter thread seriously stresses me out, any knocks will reverberate and transcend throughout the AF system and optical train.
Isn’t this exactly the reason why hoods are coupled via the lens body to actively avoid the above scenario ever happening??
If I had to go that route I’d use rubber hoods that soften any impact and act like a huge rubber bumper 🤣👍🏻
An internal zoom/focusing lens like the 70-200Z's filter threads are connected to the same part of the lens body as the hood bayonet flanges, so shock transfers through the same areas of the lens, granted the slightly looser bayonet connection combined with a more...Show more →
That’s fair enough and I agree on the bulky comment. Me… I just buy cheap 3rd party hoods and chop them down using a grinder with a slitting disc. I now have several lenses with cut down hoods. I’m not too bothered about flare, it’s my front element catching something that worries me the most. I usually leave front caps off and just drop the lenses into my bag and fit the rear cap. Knowing the cut down hood is preventing the front objective actually touching anything that could scratch it gives me peace of mind.
Oct 17, 2026 at 10:40 AM
p.2 #5Black Coating Issues Type Z?
rscheffler wrote:
That made me shudder tbh
I now purposefully avoid doing that with AF lenses - not so bothered about MF lenses. But screwing a metal hood directly to the filter thread seriously stresses me out, any knocks will reverberate and transcend throughout the AF system and optical train.
Isn’t this exactly the reason why hoods are coupled via the lens body to actively avoid the above scenario ever happening??
If I had to go that route I’d use rubber hoods that soften any impact and act like a huge rubber bumper 🤣👍🏻I'll take my chances. IMO the main benefit of the supplied bayonet style hoods is that they're fast to deploy and reversible. But they're too bulky unless you downsize to the 50/1.2's hood, if it fits the Z (it fits the other 70-200s). The EF 85/1.4's hood would be another option in place of the 50/1.2's.
An internal zoom/focusing lens like the 70-200Z's filter threads are connected to the same part of the lens body as the hood bayonet flanges, so shock transfers through the same areas of the lens, granted the slightly looser bayonet connection combined with a more...Show more →
Doesn't the Z lens have an 82mm thread? In any event, I would never use anything but a reversible bayonet hood. I typically put some grip material on the hoods for lenses like that. Not only is it rough to prevent slippage of the rain cover, it's black and covers the white on hoods like the RF 100-500. I use camo on the larger hoods like 400/4+300/2.8, 500/4, 600/4, 200-600/6.3, etc.
EBH
Pixelpuffin wrote
rscheffler wrote
But rather than adapting the RF 50/1/2's hood I bought a cheap 1" metal screw-on 77mm hood and leave it pretty much permanently attached.I now purposefully avoid doing that with AF lenses - not so bothered about MF lenses. But screwing a metal hood directly to the filter thread seriously stresses me out, any knocks will reverberate and transcend throughout the AF system and optical train.
Isn’t this exactly the reason why hoods are coupled via the lens body to actively avoid the above scenario ever happening??
If I had to go that route I’d use rubber hoods that soften any impact and act like a huge rubber bumper 🤣👍🏻
An internal zoom/focusing lens like the 70-200Z's filter threads are connected to the same part of the lens body as the hood bayonet flanges, so shock transfers through the same areas of the lens, granted the slightly looser bayonet connection combined with a more...Show more →
Doesn't the Z lens have an 82mm thread? In any event, I would never use anything but a reversible bayonet hood. I typically put some grip material on the hoods for lenses like that. Not only is it rough to prevent slippage of the rain cover, it's black and covers the white on hoods like the RF 100-500. I use camo on the larger hoods like 400/4+300/2.8, 500/4, 600/4, 200-600/6.3, etc.
EBH
Oct 17, 2026 at 10:55 AM
p.2 #6Black Coating Issues Type Z?
Yeah, I guess. I know the 50/1.2 and EF 85/1.4 hoods work on the two external zoom 70-200s, which are 77mm filter size. I guess the short hood option for the Z is the one from the 24-105 Z if you just want it as a bumper rather than actual light blocking capability. I believe this is what Stan does.
If you have to get the white Z version, you can also skin it to be something other than white, if such skins are available.
I recently discovered grip tape and have liberally applied it to most of the 28-70/2. Its shape is such that the extra grip offered by the tape really helps how I handle this lens. I haven't found need to tape up the Z as I find it easier to handle.
That's a great tip about taping the hood to help prevent rain cover slippage. I might just do that with my 200-400!
The grippy material on my R6II has become rather smooth after a lot of use. Same with its BG-R10 grip. Strategic placement of grip tape also helped here.
If you have to get the white Z version, you can also skin it to be something other than white, if such skins are available.
I recently discovered grip tape and have liberally applied it to most of the 28-70/2. Its shape is such that the extra grip offered by the tape really helps how I handle this lens. I haven't found need to tape up the Z as I find it easier to handle.
That's a great tip about taping the hood to help prevent rain cover slippage. I might just do that with my 200-400!
The grippy material on my R6II has become rather smooth after a lot of use. Same with its BG-R10 grip. Strategic placement of grip tape also helped here.
Oct 17, 2026 at 07:21 PM