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Nikon FM3A

  
 
Surfnsun
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p.3 #1Nikon FM3A


andrewd01 wrote:
EB-1 wroteYou can see a teardown here. https://richardhaw.com/2020/04/10/repair-nikon-fm3a/

EBH
That example shows the plastic front trim plate that looks ugly on badly treated cameras.

I very much doubt that any knobs/dials etc are brass as weight saving was very much an objective of this series of cameras. The knobs/dials are high quality however. The brass top and base plates are extremely thin and will dent if breathed on heavily.

They are nice cameras if treated well. I like to use a leather half case to keep cameras like this in mint condition (easy to source on ebay). Do not be under any illusion that they have particularly solid and durable build
...Show more →

Have you had something break on the FM3a? From a build quality perspective?

It’s a camera, don’t drop it. Don’t bash it into things. I wouldn’t “expect” any of my cameras to survive if I don’t take care of them.

No worries though. We all have our own experiences.
Sep 26, 2026 at 01:58 PM
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p.3 #2Nikon FM3A
Surfnsun wrote:
andrewd01 wrote
EB-1 wroteYou can see a teardown here. https://richardhaw.com/2020/04/10/repair-nikon-fm3a/

EBH
That example shows the plastic front trim plate that looks ugly on badly treated cameras.

I very much doubt that any knobs/dials etc are brass as weight saving was very much an objective of this series of cameras. The knobs/dials are high quality however. The brass top and base plates are extremely thin and will dent if breathed on heavily.

They are nice cameras if treated well. I like to use a leather half case to keep cameras like this in mint condition (easy to source on ebay). Do not be under any illusion that they have particularly solid and durable build quality.
Have you had something break on the FM3a? From a build quality perspective?

It’s a camera, don’t drop it. Don’t bash it into things. I wouldn’t “expect” any of my cameras to survive if I don’t take care of them.

No worries though. We all have our own experiences.


Aside from the entire FE/FM family having the weak rewind knob post/threads that can easily tilt over if it takes even a lame bump, and the prism housings being thin on pretty much every Nikon SLR, they're robust enough for camera stuff.

I've got a lot of Nikons. F-F6, N80's, N75's, FE's, an EM, etc. I'm personally not at all wrapped up with what is most resistant to failure at this point. Every camera has weak points and known issues, so buy the feature set you like and enjoy it.
Sep 26, 2026 at 03:03 PM
andrewd01
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p.3 #3Nikon FM3A
They are perfectly serviceable if looked after. The easy to dent bodywork is mainly a cosmetic problem, and a shared issue with the cameras in the same category from competitor brands.
Sep 26, 2026 at 04:06 PM
Desmolicious
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p.3 #4Nikon FM3A
RoamingScott wrote:
A scratched trim plate or dented metal top plate doesn't affect durability, it only offends people who care about form over function.


Like adult diapers, it depends.

The non Ti Nikon F3’s achilles heal was the circuit board breaking under the top left cover if it took a dent there. Literally would kill the camera.
Those metal top plates on cameras do cover delicate hardware. It is better not to dent them - or if you are into that sort of sado-photo-masochism have a camera that enjoys the beating.
Sep 26, 2026 at 07:48 PM
Desmolicious
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p.3 #5Nikon FM3A
Surfnsun wrote:
andrewd01 wrote
EB-1 wroteYou can see a teardown here. https://richardhaw.com/2020/04/10/repair-nikon-fm3a/

EBH
That example shows the plastic front trim plate that looks ugly on badly treated cameras.

I very much doubt that any knobs/dials etc are brass as weight saving was very much an objective of this series of cameras. The knobs/dials are high quality however. The brass top and base plates are extremely thin and will dent if breathed on heavily.

They are nice cameras if treated well. I like to use a leather half case to keep cameras like this in mint condition (easy to source on ebay). Do not be under any illusion that they have particularly solid and durable build quality.
Have you had something break on the FM3a? From a build quality perspective?

It’s a camera, don’t drop it. Don’t bash it into things. I wouldn’t “expect” any of my cameras to survive if I don’t take care of them.

No worries though. We all have our own experiences.


Out of the bajillion cameras I own, there are only two that genuinely feel near indestructible. My Nikonos V. It has a body literally carved out of billet steel to withstand underwater diving pressure.

One time skateboarding I took a faceplant and my once pristine Nikonos skidded down the road until it eventually hit a curb (kerb?). The only damage to it was slight scrapes on one corner. I was expecting serious damage.
If that had been any of my other cameras - Nikon F series, Leica Ms, R, Minolta XK etc - they would have shattered into pieces.

Do I recommend doing this? H3ll no. But if you are going to eat it, make sure it is a Nikonos that you have with you.

P.s I mention two, because I had to have both the green and the orange one….
Sep 26, 2026 at 07:56 PM
andrewd01
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p.3 #6Nikon FM3A
RoamingScott wrote:
A scratched trim plate or dented metal top plate doesn't affect durability, it only offends people who care about form over function.


It would be fine if these were cheap, but for what they sell for I want something that isn’t so susceptible to getting dented.
For those who favour function over form you can get a perfectly functional auto/manual SLR for 1/10 the price of an FM3a.
Sep 27, 2026 at 02:57 AM
Desmolicious
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p.3 #7Nikon FM3A
andrewd01 wrote:
RoamingScott wroteA scratched trim plate or dented metal top plate doesn't affect durability, it only offends people who care about form over function.
It would be fine if these were cheap, but for what they sell for I want something that isn’t so susceptible to getting dented.
For those who favour function over form you can get a perfectly functional auto/manual SLR for 1/10 the price of an FM3a.


If you compare a $30 market value Nikon N80 to a $1000 (?) FM3a, the Nikon N80 is actually a much better camera if your goal is to get your shot.

Then again, I can say the same thing about the N80 and a $7000 new Leica M6.
Sep 27, 2026 at 11:27 AM
Surfnsun
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p.3 #8Nikon FM3A
Well I suppose for my own photography’s safety I might have to consider getting an M6. It’s quite the sacrifice. I know. I’m surprised too.

And it should probably be the titanium version with the solid brass top and bottom plates like my M10r.

But seriously I do have a problem with the FM3a that I don’t know how to overlook. The focus ring doesn’t turn the same direction as my Leica. It’s like trying to cross your arms the other way. We can all do it, but it doesn’t feel right. So sadly I think that my time with this particular Nikon might have to be more of a romantic fling?
Sep 27, 2026 at 01:53 PM
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p.3 #9Nikon FM3A
Surfnsun wrote:
Well I suppose for my own photography’s safety I might have to consider getting an M6. It’s quite the sacrifice. I know. I’m surprised too.

And it should probably be the titanium version with the solid brass top and bottom plates like my M10r.

But seriously I do have a problem with the FM3a that I don’t know how to overlook. The focus ring doesn’t turn the same direction as my Leica. It’s like trying to cross your arms the other way. We can all do it, but it doesn’t feel right. So sadly I think that my time with
...Show more →

I dunno, I use M and F all the time and it's fine. Just takes some getting used to. I think the different form factors help.

Either way, Huss ain't lying about the N80. It'll correctly expose negatives every time, it's got a soft shutter release, pop-up flash, auto advance, it's not quite M quiet but certainly SLR quiet, and you won't have to deal with focus or aperture rings since all controls are on the camera. Autofocus is a bit slower than the F5/F6, though.
Sep 27, 2026 at 02:08 PM
Surfnsun
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p.3 #10Nikon FM3A
I know I could get used to it, but I wanna be a little princess about it… lol But seriously sometimes I forget which camera I’m shooting with because I have multiple systems, so I really don’t want to rack the focus the wrong way and then get annoyed with myself. Already happening.

It’s a beautiful camera and operates perfectly. It’s buttery smooth, it’s LIGHT, feels like new condition, and the lens is amazing. It’ll make any photographer happy! I have no doubt.

But I could be just as happy with an M6 and a Voigt 28mm APO. I can’t say I haven’t thought about that camera before. But since I’m really enjoying everything about shooting film, I’m not as worried about the upfront investment. Gotta save a bit. For me the more I enjoy it, the more chance there is of it actually coming with me, and that’s really the whole point of this thing. I want something that comes with me and makes memories, especially for the situations where my 50 just isn’t quite the right lens.

I imagine that Voigt 28 APO should be a fantastic on film!

OffTrail wrote:
Surfnsun wroteWell I suppose for my own photography’s safety I might have to consider getting an M6. It’s quite the sacrifice. I know. I’m surprised too.

And it should probably be the titanium version with the solid brass top and bottom plates like my M10r.

But seriously I do have a problem with the FM3a that I don’t know how to overlook. The focus ring doesn’t turn the same direction as my Leica. It’s like trying to cross your arms the other way. We can all do it, but it doesn’t feel right. So sadly I think that my time with this particular Nikon might have to be more of a romantic fling?
I dunno, I use M and F all the time and it's fine. Just takes some getting used to. I think the different form factors help.

Either way, Huss ain't lying about the N80. It'll correctly expose negatives every time, it's got a soft shutter release, pop-up flash, auto advance, it's not quite M quiet but certainly SLR quiet, and you won't have to deal with focus or aperture rings since all controls are on the camera. Autofocus is a bit slower than the F5/F6, though.

Sep 27, 2026 at 02:25 PM
 


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madNbad
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p.3 #11Nikon FM3A
Surfnsun wrote:
Well I suppose for my own photography’s safety I might have to consider getting an M6. It’s quite the sacrifice. I know. I’m surprised too.

And it should probably be the titanium version with the solid brass top and bottom plates like my M10r.

But seriously I do have a problem with the FM3a that I don’t know how to overlook. The focus ring doesn’t turn the same direction as my Leica. It’s like trying to cross your arms the other way. We can all do it, but it doesn’t feel right. So sadly I think that my time with
...Show more →


The Nikkor 45 GN has the right to left focusing throw. The only problem is they're a cam driven lens from the 1960's and theres a spot before the cam engages that makes you wonder if anything is happening.
Sep 27, 2026 at 02:50 PM
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p.3 #12Nikon FM3A
Surfnsun wrote:
I know I could get used to it, but I wanna be a little princess about it… lol

Fair. Fair.

Surfnsun wrote:
But I could be just as happy with an M6 and a Voigt 28mm APO. I can’t say I haven’t thought about that camera before. But since I’m really enjoying everything about shooting film, I’m not as worried about the upfront investment. Gotta save a bit. For me the more I enjoy it, the more chance there is of it actually coming with me, and that’s really the whole point of this thing. I want something that comes with me and makes memories, especially for the situations where my 50 just isn’t quite the right lens.

I imagine that Voigt 28
...Show more →

I've also been tempted by the APO's for film, but I just can't seem to pry the 35 Summaron off my M2. Especially not for something bigger and heavier. But I do think there's a benefit to shooting modern glass on film. I use a lot of the AF-S G era stuff on my AF Nikon bodies and there's certainly a different look than what you get with the pre-digital lenses.
Sep 27, 2026 at 03:28 PM
patotts
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p.3 #13Nikon FM3A
I love everything about the FM3a, apart from the prices for a good unit these days...
Sep 28, 2026 at 12:41 PM
RoamingScott
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p.3 #14Nikon FM3A
patotts wrote:
I love everything about the FM3a, apart from the prices for a good unit these days...


Hadn't looked in a bit, they are creeping up. I bought mine for just under $1000 4 years ago and if it had been described as BNIB, I wouldn't have argued.

The flip side is $1200-$1400 for a mint condition unit that will last the rest of your lifetime because it's fully mechanical is still the best deal going.
Sep 28, 2026 at 12:43 PM
patotts
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p.3 #15Nikon FM3A
What about the FM2n? OK, no aperture priority, but still 1/4000 shutter. I guess much more like a Leica M6 that is totally mechanical. Prices are much better as it was made for over 2 decades.
Sep 30, 2026 at 01:50 AM
Surfnsun
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p.3 #16Nikon FM3A
Does it have this K3 split prism viewfinder as an option? It makes focusing the FM3a so much easier than my Nikon FE.

patotts wrote:
What about the FM2n? OK, no aperture priority, but still 1/4000 shutter. I guess much more like a Leica M6 that is totally mechanical. Prices are much better as it was made for over 2 decades.

Sep 30, 2026 at 07:35 AM
grantgoodes
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p.3 #17Nikon FM3A
patotts wrote:
What about the FM2n? OK, no aperture priority, but still 1/4000 shutter. I guess much more like a Leica M6 that is totally mechanical. Prices are much better as it was made for over 2 decades.


Surfnsun wrote:
Does it have this K3 split prism viewfinder as an option? It makes focusing the FM3a so much easier than my Nikon FE.


The FM2n came with the K2, which isn't _quite_ as bright as the K3, but is a big improvement over the original K screen that the FE came with. The FM3a's K3 screen can be retrofitted into any of the FE/FM cameras. I think with the FE2/FM2 this is a simple drop-in, but older bodies such as your FE likely require exposure compensation.
Sep 30, 2026 at 07:59 AM
EB-1
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p.3 #18Nikon FM3A
I always replaced those basic screens with the E screen. A split image screen like a K screen blacks out at close distance due to the slower effective aperture. The grid helps leveling when needed.

EBH
Sep 30, 2026 at 05:13 PM
nightnight
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p.3 #19Nikon FM3A
A couple years back, UsedPhotoPro had a substantial disparity in its pricing matrix between the black paint and silver paint models. Black were $900-$1000, and I got my BNIB silver for $580. Managed to put together a kit with the matching 45 + SB-28 for about $900 total. Every once in a while one will show up on these boards well below street price, and every time I think about buying it. Absolutely no different in terms of end user experience than my FE2 (which I use WAY more often), but undeniably one of the most special cameras ever produced.
Oct 02, 2026 at 03:55 AM


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