p.2 #1 · Mirrorless platform for Leica M lenses. Leica SL3S or Nikon ZF
Rainbow Chaser wrote:
Interesting observation. Out of the Leica and Nikon cameras, which were you shooting RAW, and which were JPEG?
I shoot raw on all my cameras and adjust - I’m sure somebody better at color grading than me can theoretically get them to match but the starting point was noticeably different.
p.2 #2 · Mirrorless platform for Leica M lenses. Leica SL3S or Nikon ZF
Can you explain a little about how your preferred photography type and its images are disrupted by: I 'just wish it worked well with M lenses.'
Many of us use them (M-mount optics) on Sony cameras with scarcely a care in the world, because for final intended formats (be it display print, book, web, archive) and size, the sensor effect is marginal.
Despite it showing up in 100% crops. If you have to look hard for faults in far corners, maybe they can overlooked. Cine companies actually engineer this corner fade (sharpness, contrast, vignette, even bokeh ball shapes) into their very expensive lenses, like Cooke and Leitz.
And so generalizing about something that impacts your purchase decisions so strongly, I think needs more elaboration. Demanding perfection when it is unnecessary may be a bigger problem, unless you print very large. I can ask a simple question: how often do the images produced by *your* M lenses require perfect corners, assuming the lens can deliver them?
A similar issue applies to high resolution. Bear in mind that many forms of photography are heavily center-weighted, and that portion of the frame suffers from no-to-minimal sensor thickness effect. For example, bokeh alone is far more important for wide aperture street work than corners, same for much of portraiture.
Your viewers will not have their eyes drawn to that region of the image very often..it is the last thing they will do. Front corners often get lost in fading DOF and top corners are often the sky. They don't matter. High resolution buys you more small cropping ability too.
I suppose what I am saying is you need to examine real world *context* when making broad brush rules for yourself about such matters - by looking at what and how you shoot, and what you intend to do with the images.
It's so easy to fall into a purity spiral on these questions, so real world matters count greatly. Image purity can easily lead us into a whirlpool. And you might be letting minor issues like flip screen aversion (which don't need to be used) loom larger than they deserve.
Another option if you don't enjoy magnification (many like me love it) is an AF adapter on the Nikon, it seems very popular. I personally think M lenses look comical on that very large body and many images want more Mp, so it is out for me.
Photography is not a good place for perfectionists. We must choose the least-bad too often. A small Sony for MF would sell by the truck load. They and Nikon have vested interests in their AF suites though, so it won't happen. cheers and good luck going forward.
p.2 #3 · Mirrorless platform for Leica M lenses. Leica SL3S or Nikon ZF
The ZF is a builky body and that's my main beef with using it as an M mount camera, but focus confirmation is awesome. That said if having a bulky body is a deal killer, the size will likely bug you.
ZF files do have a green/yellow tint to them vs Sony/Leica, but it can be corrected in post pretty easily, unless you are trying to color match files between the ZF and another camera. I also use M mount lenses on my a7cr since I sold most of my Sony lenses to fund the transition to Sony. I don't really have any issues with M mount lenses on Sony cams as I'm mostly shooting wide open stuff that throws the corners out of focus. YMMV
p.2 #4 · Mirrorless platform for Leica M lenses. Leica SL3S or Nikon ZF
I had the impression that Nikon's Z-mount color science is about as good as it gets, especially for JPEG shooters. A couple of you guys are challenging that idea.
p.2 #5 · Mirrorless platform for Leica M lenses. Leica SL3S or Nikon ZF
Not a perfect comparison, but Leica on the left, Nikon on the right. Both set to the same WB and tint values. And both on the summilux 35 FLE .
Edit: theyre just different starting points. I dont find one better than the other and though its hard to fully color match between cameras I can get them more or less to the same points in post.
