I do 90% of my work in studio. Product shots and still life.
I have had the batteries die on me mid shoot several times. I know I could buy more batteries or the AC adapters, but I’m thinking about upgrading to a power pack/head setup.
Wondering if you all might have some recommendations for a step up kit.
I do have a bunch of bowens mount soft boxes, not a dealbreaker, but if I could adapt, that would be a bonus.
I've had the Xplor 1200 pro for ~4.5 years and love it. I have the AC adapter for it as well.
Every so often it has been on discount down to like $1200 even down to $999 at some times.
I also have the Godox QT1200IIM Flash as well which I've been able to use on at least a shoot or two so far and like it too (usually use it as main or for the projector/gobo attachment).
If you have enough power, you could always just get some extension heads for your AD600s, if you're mainly just looking to get some weight off the end of a boomed light. Guessing that's also why you're not keen on AC adapters for the AD600, as they make them a bit larger length-wise. If you otherwise have no other issues with the lights, I'd just get a superclamp so you can mount the AD600 body onto the stand, an extension head, and an AC adapter. Depending on whether you have the mk1 OG, mk2 pro etc, you could get the clamp, ext head and AC adapter for about $200-250 and then just keep one battery on a charger for the strobe that you're still powering with a battery.
I've heard great things about AD1200 too. If you're happy with your bowens mount modifiers, and are otherwise happy with Godox, I don't see an upside to switching systems.
When outfitting my present studio I debated on batteries or AC Power for the lighting. I ended up putting electric outlet power strips on the ceiling, roughly above where I usually place my lights camera right and left in the studio. I minimize power cords running around on the floor, but never want a dead battery problem mid shoot either. All of my lights are Godox or Flashpoint and with Bowens mounts. I do have high powered lights in 800 and 1000 w/s sizes, but I find that the SK300 and SK400 Godox lights or equivalent Flashpoint lights are more than adequate for my studio use. Smaller and cheaper too. The bigger, heavier lights for most needs in my studio is just a waste of money, because I just don't need that much light power for all but very unusual shooting most of the time. My studio is 19 x 26' with an 8' ceiling height (wish it was higher, but not possible here). The walls and ceiling are white, so I can bounce light off of them when needed, or depend on the inverse square law of light and distance when I want darkness. The studio is set up for Portraits, Still Life, Macro, and Video shooting with the video LED light panels placed on a DIY ceiling lighting support grid, so I can leave them all in place when shooting stills below. Yes, I use light stands when needed, but without power cords on the floor. Lights and soft boxes usually get hung from the ceiling grid if they won't need to be moved around during the shoot. Modified light stands hung upside down from the ceiling grid eliminates the trip hazard of the tripod legs on the floor and can be adjusted up and down easily. The grid allows me to place a light anywhere within a 10' wide by 22' area of the studio and AC Power is available anywhere within 5' of a hanging light or light on a stand. Though only one 20 amp power circuit on the ceiling, I have wireless control modules and remotes so I can turn power on and off for any group or kind of light, whether it's on the ceiling grid or on a stand below it. Even my tether cable runs to the ceiling grid and across to above my computer table, with enough slack at the camera end for free movement in the camera half of the studio. I have a tether cable extension to use if I ever need it, but haven't needed it in 6 years of shooting in this studio. With no power cables on the floor and a minimum of light stands too, so my studio is far safer than most photo studios. I now use camera stands instead of camera tripods most of the time, again for safety, as well as for more camera stability that helps when shooting Still Life and macro. Even my ceiling "work light" is wirelessly controlled from any camera stand, the computer table, a toolbox on wheels that I place my camera on during shooting breaks, and at the original light switch position at the entrance door. In most cases, I use a camera F-8 setting to eliminate the ceiling light from having any effect on the shoot, but if a lower F-Stop setting is required, I have the way to turn the ceiling work light off before the shot and then back on without the need to move around in the darkened studio. Yes, I know that the F-Stop setting of the camera determines the focal depth, but it can also be used to eliminate low level room lighting from affecting most photo shoots. If a lower F-Stop setting is required for a shoot, then I have the way to briefly turn this light off and then back on without the need to move around in the dark to turn it off and then back on. Safety in my studio for both me and my models is very important to me, and I have designed safety into my studio as much as I can.
I'd rethink your battery vs pack and head scenario, here's my thoughts from someone who used a pack and head system, Speedotron Black Line for nearly 40 years for product work.
Back in 2018 I bought my first AD600Pro and since then have migrated fully over to Godox, now with 8 strobes. I have four AC adapters so I don't have to worry about battery issues on a full day shoot for my main lights and use the batteries if needed on additional strobes. The AC adapters are quite affordable.
The main drawback that most affordable pack and head systems can't give you is flexibility in power distribution between the heads. If you need one head at 1/2 power, another at 1/256, another at 1/8 and another at 1/32 you can easily accomplish this with monoblock style (Godox) strobes, not so with pack and head configurations unless you won the lottery and buy Broncolor or the Godox P2400 w/s studio pack but you'll need 2 of them if you need 4 heads.
Another consideration is redundancy. If a pack goes down you lose all your ability to light a subject, not so with monoblock strobes. And if the odd time you are asked to do a location shoot, your pack and head system can be a bit more logistically challenging, weight, power supply issues etc. You might consider the AC models such as the QT600IIIM which are @$260 cheaper than a AD600Pro II and come in 400w/s, 600w/s and 1200w/s versions.
p.1 #10Upgrading strobes from Flashpoint Xplor600?
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned buying quality used gear, I've bought new and used Profoto and it's become a great value. My current lineup is a 7b kit, I had the battery rebuilt and it operates as new. The Acute2 1200 kit is a great studio kit and a Compact unit that simply will not die.
p.1 #11Upgrading strobes from Flashpoint Xplor600?
It's probably the case that people don't mention this because intermixing brands is a source of headaches. You can't remotely change power on a Profoto setup using a Godox trigger. And don't get me started on how absurdly overpriced things like replacement bulbs, repairs, modifiers and grids are for Profoto. Core performance of older/used Profoto can't come close to contemporary Godox for color stability, HSS, even output and recycle times under many scenarios. Hard pass from me.
p.1 #12Upgrading strobes from Flashpoint Xplor600?
Right now, my work-work is a GFX100.
My artwork is 4x5 Sinar.
The Godox is 600 W. That is "enough" power, but color consistency is pretty low on them.
I used to think flash was flash, but now I'm reconsidering.
I found a Speedotron 2403CX kit locally that looks pretty nice. It's 1k. I know I would be giving up the remote control for ratios, etc.
I also found an Elinchrom ELB 500 kit for 550. I would have to buy a commander for that, but it's a whole lot newer.
I can also get adapters or sell my modifiers and buy some new ones. (I mostly use big umbrellas, so it would be just getting a couple of soft boxes. ).
p.1 #13Upgrading strobes from Flashpoint Xplor600?
I sold off my entire Godox kit, in favor of Westcott, which while pretty similar, uses the SAME battery and charger on its 250, 400, and 800w batteries. They also have a "max" battery with a bigger capacity, and run sales (or you can find discounts) that bring them to within the same price range as Godox. They also have a fairly active facebook group with US based support. I liked Godox kit, but hated having a different battery for all the flashes. That, and the anxiety of having to manage the battery health or risk them no longer working.
So far, I don't really miss anything about the Godox kit, besides their newer triggers. Westcott also doesn't make anything smaller than their 250w flash, other than their 80w on camera flash. The AD100, 200, and 300 from Godox is pretty slick.
Profoto was completely out of the question because of price. If you need more than 800w, which Godox also sells, the 1200 Godox/Flashpoint is a winner.
p.1 #14Upgrading strobes from Flashpoint Xplor600?
All the newer Godox strobes (AD600Pro and on including the QT series) can be set to Color mode which maintains colour consistency so you may want to give that a try.
Regarding the Speedotron, shot to shot EV is not as consistent as the Godox, keeping in mind they were built for film shooting and slower fire rates, although duty cycle is not an issue. Halogen model lamps generate heat and although the 102 heads have 250 watt lamps they are about equal to the 40 watt LED's in the Godox.
Godox now offer the 800 w/s monoblock but if you are studio only I'd consider the QTIIIM series so you can get 1200 w/s.
atracksler wrote:
Right now, my work-work is a GFX100.
My artwork is 4x5 Sinar.
The Godox is 600 W. That is "enough" power, but color consistency is pretty low on them.
I used to think flash was flash, but now I'm reconsidering.
I found a Speedotron 2403CX kit locally that looks pretty nice. It's 1k. I know I would be giving up the remote control for ratios, etc.
I also found an Elinchrom ELB 500 kit for 550. I would have to buy a commander for that, but it's a whole lot newer.
I can also get adapters or sell my modifiers and buy some new ones. (I mostly use big umbrellas, so it would be just getting a couple of soft boxes. )....Show more →
p.1 #16Upgrading strobes from Flashpoint Xplor600?
Seems like the AC adapters for your existing lights is the simplest solution if the lights themselves are doing what you need. Power pack systems are going to be a big step up in power and cost which you may not necessarily need.
The Godox DP600III is an AC only powered monolight that would give you the same light output without any battery complications. I have some of the little MS300 AC powered lights which work great for close in product stuff. They do need to be cranked up to 1/2 or full power depending on how many diffusers you're using. 3 diffusion layers at f/11 is pretty much full power.
p.1 #17Upgrading strobes from Flashpoint Xplor600?
tcphoto wrote:
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned buying quality used gear, I've bought new and used Profoto and it's become a great value. My current lineup is a 7b kit, I had the battery rebuilt and it operates as new. The Acute2 1200 kit is a great studio kit and a Compact unit that simply will not die.
Back in the late 00s before Godox, I started acquiring Elinchrom Quadra kits and really liked them for a variety of reasons (especially after I converted them to lithium batteries). I've stuck with them and now that they're long gone and old school, I've recently gone on a used buying spree, picking up heads and packs for excellent prices. In one case just paying the shipping to take them off someone's hands. My current philosophy is that other than flashtube changes, which are infrequent, if something goes down, it's cheaper to find a used replacement if I don't already have one in my extensive inventory.
Catching up with the times a bit, I recently pick up an ELB 500 dual-head kit and really like it a lot. It's a pack that unlike the Quadra and ELB 400 will allow independent operation of each head and therefore is not locked into a fixed output ratio. If I was in Maine, I'd grab that $550 ELB 500 kit!
That said, for the OP's purposes, switching to another system is a bit of a PITA and I'm not sure the ELB will really offer a significant benefit. They'd have to find at least another pack and head if they need two 500/600Ws sources. But if 250Ws is enough per head, then two heads on one ELB pack would be doable. Just be aware that the cables on the ELB heads are fixed to the heads (unlike the Quadra heads) and you will need additional Quadra power cables to move two heads far enough away from the single pack. Last time I checked B&H still sells the long extension cable, which is not cheap.