I always underexpose my ambient by 1 stop. With Sony flashes, I can use TTL and the flash automatically brings up the exposure of the subject.
How would I do this with manual Godox and flash timing? Let's say at 1 stop under is 1/2000 f2 250iso. For proper subject exposure, I need to be at 1/1000 with 1/128 flash power. If I were to use the Godox flash timing chart, do I use 1/1000 or 1/2000 to determine the timing? If 1/1000 is the answer, how would the timing conflict with my camera (1/2000) to underexpose the ambient?
I want to minimize time doing test shots, I want to use the chart as a hard and fast guide to set the timing. Or am I overthinking it that shutter doesn't affect flash?
I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.
morris e wrote:
I’d appreciate hearing detailed workflow info from anyone using an a9iii with flashes and strobes (ideally Godox but others welcome too) regularly in a range of different situations (direct, triggered, multiple) — especially if you feel you’ve either “got it down” or have reached the limits of its flexibility.
I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.
If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.
However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun even in sunny16 conditions. With these settings you can fire the flash at like 10fps or so because its only using small amount of power.
On other camera you would need ND filter, flash will fire at 1/1 power, and the 75ws speedlight wont emit enough power. You cant shoot at 10fps either, you will fire one or two shots and then wait for flash to recharge.
I use a Sony on camera flash. Godox TTL basically doesnt work.
aCuria wrote:
I can make some comments but there is much more to be learned imo.
If the strobe is the main light source for studio settings, then there is no difference between A9iii and other cameras. AD600pro T0.1 at 1/1 power is 1/220s iirc. Therefore your settings will be something like: 1/200s, f/8, Base iso, Flash power 1/1. The limitation here is maximum flash power.
However if flash is used more as fill flash, then the A9iii has a huge advantage. Your settings will be like: Base ISO, f/1.4, 1/32000s, flash power 1/128? (use TTL) and this is enough to overpower the sun even in sunny16 conditions. With these settings you can fire the flash at like 10fps or so because its only using small amount of power.
On other camera you would need ND filter, flash will fire at 1/1 power, and the 75ws speedlight wont emit enough power. You cant shoot at 10fps either, you will fire one or two shots and then wait for flash to recharge.
I use a Sony on camera flash. Godox TTL basically doesnt work.
...Show more →
I was using Sony speed lights and they worked effortlessly in TTL. I just hate using AA batteries, they don't cycle fast enough, and the light doesn't fill a big softbox.
So I tried the Godox ad200 in manual over the weekend. Either I don't have a workflow yet or I find myself fidgeting too much with the settings. First, I have to check my shutter speed to determine if I need to set my flash timing. If so, then find out my flash power, test a few pops. Then look over at the chart for best timing. Set that value in on my camera.
As mentioned in my first post, I under expose my ambient by 1 stop so that adds another layer of confusion to my process.
garyHalcon wrote:
I was using Sony speed lights and they worked effortlessly in TTL. I just hate using AA batteries, they don't cycle fast enough, and the light doesn't fill a big softbox.
So I tried the Godox ad200 in manual over the weekend. Either I don't have a workflow yet or I find myself fidgeting too much with the settings. First, I have to check my shutter speed to determine if I need to set my flash timing. If so, then find out my flash power, test a few pops. Then look over at the chart for best timing. Set that value in on my camera.
As mentioned in my first post, I under expose my ambient by 1 stop so that adds another layer of confusion to my process. ...Show more →
The speedlights do recycle very fast in fill flash + bright aperture situations. You can easily get 100 frames off in a burst at 10fps
I heard someone mentioning something about hooking up an external godox? battery pack to the Sony speed light, but I have not explored this possibility myself.
The AD200 will not fill a big softbox either right?
aCuria wrote:
The speedlights do recycle very fast in fill flash + bright aperture situations. You can easily get 100 frames off in a burst at 10fps
I heard someone mentioning something about hooking up an external godox? battery pack to the Sony speed light, but I have not explored this possibility myself.
The AD200 will not fill a big softbox either right?
I tested it in my 42 inch softbox. The ad200 bare bulb fills it better than the speed light with the wide angle panel.
garyHalcon wrote:
I always underexpose my ambient by 1 stop. With Sony flashes, I can use TTL and the flash automatically brings up the exposure of the subject.
How would I do this with manual Godox and flash timing? Let's say at 1 stop under is 1/2000 f2 250iso. For proper subject exposure, I need to be at 1/1000 with 1/128 flash power. If I were to use the Godox flash timing chart, do I use 1/1000 or 1/2000 to determine the timing? If 1/1000 is the answer, how would the timing conflict with my camera (1/2000) to underexpose the ambient?
I want to minimize time doing test shots, I want to use the chart as a hard and fast guide to set the timing. Or am I overthinking it that shutter doesn't affect flash?...Show more →
With Godox in Manual mode, you have to calibrate the delay timing for each power setting to hit peak brightness and ensure natural color. The easiest way to find this is by test-shooting a blank wall ahead of time.
To simplify the process, I work in 1-stop increments for shutter speeds from 1/1000s up to 1/32000s (which is Sunny 16 at f/1.4 and ISO 250). At fast shutter speeds, stop down to f/5.6 (or any aperture that completely kills the ambient light) and start with the AD200 at 1/8 power. Adjust the delay timing in 200ms increments until the flash registers, then fine-tune in 20ms steps to lock in maximum brightness. From there, for every 1-stop drop in flash power, decrease the delay timing by 40ms until you hit peak brightness again.
Once finished, you’ll have a complete delay timing table for every shutter speed and power combination. Just a note, at 1/2000s, your max brightness is achieved with 1/4 power setting, while at 1/1000s, 1/2 power setting provides the max brightness. I tape this directly to my AD200 for a quick reference in the field.
However, I am now selling my AD200. Running two F28RMA flashes provides the exact same high-speed output, but with the massive advantage of native TTL and global shutter sync, all at half the weight. With the new firmware, Sony tuned the F28RMA to have extremely fast flash durations under GS.
