Advice for a newbie
p.1 #1Advice for a newbie
It feels like months of agonising over whether m43 was the right thing to do. Well I made up my mind, I have a OM-1 ii and the 100-400ii on its way. The Nikon Z8 and the 180-600 was just too much, both cash and weight wise!
It was bought for wildlife, I have a local lake in a park about 20 mins from me with lots of waterfowl, I plan on using it to learn how to shoot birds, BIF and getting my ehad around learning patterns etc..
I need to switch my focus to learning how to shoot a new genre, reaching out to the wiser heads here to save me some time and point me to any useful resources or people to follow
I will say the 100-400 gallery on this site is inspiring
Much Appreciated in advance
It was bought for wildlife, I have a local lake in a park about 20 mins from me with lots of waterfowl, I plan on using it to learn how to shoot birds, BIF and getting my ehad around learning patterns etc..
I need to switch my focus to learning how to shoot a new genre, reaching out to the wiser heads here to save me some time and point me to any useful resources or people to follow
I will say the 100-400 gallery on this site is inspiring
Much Appreciated in advance
Jun 01, 2026 at 01:45 PM
p.1 #2Advice for a newbie
For M43 v s FF. If I crop my Canon 45mps down to 20mps after shooting the same thing with both cameras, the difference is minimal if any. So the lesson I learned, and reinforced on Safaris, is:
With the OM-1 MkII with a 20mps sensor, to get the same results as a cropped Full Frame camera, "FILL THE FRAME" when shooting.
With the OM-1 MkII with a 20mps sensor, to get the same results as a cropped Full Frame camera, "FILL THE FRAME" when shooting.
Jun 01, 2026 at 02:04 PM
p.1 #3Advice for a newbie
Alan Kefauver wrote:
For M43 v s FF. If I crop my Canon 45mps down to 20mps after shooting the same thing with both cameras, the difference is minimal if any. So the lesson I learned, and reinforced on Safaris, is:
With the OM-1 MkII with a 20mps sensor, to get the same results as a cropped Full Frame camera, "FILL THE FRAME" when shooting.
Understood, if only I was going on a safari! You make an important point though, use the crop to fill the frame..
Jun 01, 2026 at 02:43 PM
p.1 #4Advice for a newbie
Cant go out with this until Sun, but my new toys have arrived. A whole new world awaits, as soon as they have a deal on the 90mm macro, then I will be getting that as well.
I intend spending the next year documenting every form of insect and bird life at my local park, see how many I can find.
I intend spending the next year documenting every form of insect and bird life at my local park, see how many I can find.
 |
||
 |
||
|
Jun 04, 2026 at 12:12 PM
p.1 #5Advice for a newbie
Advantage is you can easily carry the equivalent of 800mm, so often it’s a wash between cropping from a shorter FF lens and a longer MFT lens. Enjoy!
Jun 04, 2026 at 12:17 PM
p.1 #7Advice for a newbie
I have the same setup, it's a killer combo for my semi-casual birding adventures. It took me a while to set up the camera to my liking, but now that it's dialed in, it's such a joy to use.
I found the HLD-10 works well with that lens combo but reviews on the grip are a bit polarized.
I thought my lens was soft but after enough troubleshooting and google-fu, it turns out my Hoya UV filter was causing the lens to struggle finding focus.
EDIT: Here's the link I found from these forums regarding the UV filter.
I found the HLD-10 works well with that lens combo but reviews on the grip are a bit polarized.
I thought my lens was soft but after enough troubleshooting and google-fu, it turns out my Hoya UV filter was causing the lens to struggle finding focus.
EDIT: Here's the link I found from these forums regarding the UV filter.
Jun 13, 2026 at 05:49 AM
p.1 #8Advice for a newbie
I am liking the weight, sadly my skills are very lacking in the wildlife department, but I have time and practice will get me there.
Certainly haven't worked out my setup yet, that will come as I go out more and work out what i use the most and how I like to shoot.
it is a nice bit of kit
Certainly haven't worked out my setup yet, that will come as I go out more and work out what i use the most and how I like to shoot.
it is a nice bit of kit
Jun 13, 2026 at 12:23 PM
p.1 #9Advice for a newbie
wastedimages wrote:
I am liking the weight, sadly my skills are very lacking in the wildlife department, but I have time and practice will get me there.
I am a complete newbie when it comes to birding, but when I first went out I mainly focused on capturing larger birds like ducks and herons. I got some "decent" images the first time out, the second trip (after changing my settings, using ProCap SH2, etc) got me quite a few keepers. I'm hopeful the 1.4x and 2x teleconverters I just ordered will get me closer while I work on my fieldcraft techniques.
Best of luck!
I am liking the weight, sadly my skills are very lacking in the wildlife department, but I have time and practice will get me there.
I am a complete newbie when it comes to birding, but when I first went out I mainly focused on capturing larger birds like ducks and herons. I got some "decent" images the first time out, the second trip (after changing my settings, using ProCap SH2, etc) got me quite a few keepers. I'm hopeful the 1.4x and 2x teleconverters I just ordered will get me closer while I work on my fieldcraft techniques.
Best of luck!
Jun 14, 2026 at 10:41 AM
p.1 #10Advice for a newbie
Welcome to OM System and M43! I bet you will enjoy using this system very much. I switched from full-frame as well, though from Sony FE, some months ago. I do not regret my switch one bit. For its performance, it is cheap and light. In most situations, I want more depth of field, not less.
The main selling points for me are the macro capabilities, stabilisation, size, weight, and price to some extent. The differences in dynamic range and noise are not as servere as I thought, the matter less to me than the other features, and although the size and weight savings might not seem huge on paper, it definitely is noticeable in use. It is especially true when in awkward positions or holding the camera in one hand. The lenses on this system are more appealing to me as well.
I got the OM-1 II and 90 Macro first, primarily for insects, especially with focus brackets in mind. I was so impressed that I bought an used 300 Pro and 2x teleconverter for wildlife, and eventually made a complete switch, with some other lenses for landscape, architecture and street, as in the 20 Pro, 8-25 Pro and 40-150 f/4 Pro.
Before purchasing the 300 Pro, I heavily considered the 100-400 II, but the former makes more sense to me with its speed and image quality with teleconverters, and I found a reasonably priced used copy. The latter is a great and versatile lens at a much lower price, though, and I do miss having a zoom at times. My dream lens is the 150-400 TC Pro, which I do plan saving up for, but it is out of my price range for now.
I do not need to crop as much for macro and wildlife, as it is already done in camera, and the magnification of the 90 Macro is unmatched within autofocus macro lenses. The stabilisation is exceptional, and so are the computational features, as well as the focus and speed of the camera. The former is so good that I in most situations can exposure, focus and high-res bracket any scene handheld, if they are not moving, of course. I could not do that as often with my Sony. I mostly use exposure bracketing for landscape and architecture, and sometimes high-res for both and even some still birds.
Edited on Jun 15, 2026 at 06:36 AM · View previous versions
The main selling points for me are the macro capabilities, stabilisation, size, weight, and price to some extent. The differences in dynamic range and noise are not as servere as I thought, the matter less to me than the other features, and although the size and weight savings might not seem huge on paper, it definitely is noticeable in use. It is especially true when in awkward positions or holding the camera in one hand. The lenses on this system are more appealing to me as well.
I got the OM-1 II and 90 Macro first, primarily for insects, especially with focus brackets in mind. I was so impressed that I bought an used 300 Pro and 2x teleconverter for wildlife, and eventually made a complete switch, with some other lenses for landscape, architecture and street, as in the 20 Pro, 8-25 Pro and 40-150 f/4 Pro.
Before purchasing the 300 Pro, I heavily considered the 100-400 II, but the former makes more sense to me with its speed and image quality with teleconverters, and I found a reasonably priced used copy. The latter is a great and versatile lens at a much lower price, though, and I do miss having a zoom at times. My dream lens is the 150-400 TC Pro, which I do plan saving up for, but it is out of my price range for now.
I do not need to crop as much for macro and wildlife, as it is already done in camera, and the magnification of the 90 Macro is unmatched within autofocus macro lenses. The stabilisation is exceptional, and so are the computational features, as well as the focus and speed of the camera. The former is so good that I in most situations can exposure, focus and high-res bracket any scene handheld, if they are not moving, of course. I could not do that as often with my Sony. I mostly use exposure bracketing for landscape and architecture, and sometimes high-res for both and even some still birds.
Edited on Jun 15, 2026 at 06:36 AM · View previous versions
Jun 14, 2026 at 01:07 PM
|
p.1 #11Advice for a newbie
My biggest recommendations are to customise most if not all of the buttons to your liking, use custom modes for specific genres and scenes, experiment with lower shutter speeds than adviced when possible, and use hightlight&shadow clipping thresholds. The OM-1 II is heavily customisable, birds are dynamic, and one will often change settings. Procapture is also a really great standout setting as well from what I have heard, though I have not tried it yet.
The stabilisation is wonderful, and if the bird is quite still, you can get away with very low shutter speeds. For instance, I have no issues handholding the 300 Pro at 1/10s, both with and without teleconverters. Some motion in the wings or legs can also give some character in some scenes.
As for highlight&shadow clipping thresholds, I recommend exposing for the highlights whenever there is white and bright plumage, usually -0.3 to -1.3 EV. If the bird is dark allover, I recommend exposing for the shadows, usually +1.0 to even +3.0. Highlights are less forgiven, so focus on those first. Use auto ISO, and adjust aperture and shutter speed accordingly.
Perhaps watch this video. My settings is quite similiar to his.
https://youtu.be/Adjx7ZOahbc
When you get a macro lens and pair it with a flash, use S-OVF. Otherwise, the viewfinder will be very dark. Do yourself a favour and get a flash and diffuser (a cheap one is fine, but a "shield" is definitely better) right away, to be able to use low ISO values, freeze the subjects and use consistent light.
When focus bracketing, focus somewhere on the subject and move the camera slightly back to get the front of the insect in focus as well. Focusing directly on their thin antennas will often lead to focus hunting or less precision. If it is a bit windy, hold the leaf and/or branch with one hand.
Edited on Jun 15, 2026 at 08:48 AM · View previous versions
The stabilisation is wonderful, and if the bird is quite still, you can get away with very low shutter speeds. For instance, I have no issues handholding the 300 Pro at 1/10s, both with and without teleconverters. Some motion in the wings or legs can also give some character in some scenes.
As for highlight&shadow clipping thresholds, I recommend exposing for the highlights whenever there is white and bright plumage, usually -0.3 to -1.3 EV. If the bird is dark allover, I recommend exposing for the shadows, usually +1.0 to even +3.0. Highlights are less forgiven, so focus on those first. Use auto ISO, and adjust aperture and shutter speed accordingly.
Perhaps watch this video. My settings is quite similiar to his.
https://youtu.be/Adjx7ZOahbc
When you get a macro lens and pair it with a flash, use S-OVF. Otherwise, the viewfinder will be very dark. Do yourself a favour and get a flash and diffuser (a cheap one is fine, but a "shield" is definitely better) right away, to be able to use low ISO values, freeze the subjects and use consistent light.
When focus bracketing, focus somewhere on the subject and move the camera slightly back to get the front of the insect in focus as well. Focusing directly on their thin antennas will often lead to focus hunting or less precision. If it is a bit windy, hold the leaf and/or branch with one hand.
Edited on Jun 15, 2026 at 08:48 AM · View previous versions
Jun 15, 2026 at 05:28 AM
p.1 #12Advice for a newbie
My wife switched from Nikon Z8 with a Sony 200-600mm to the OM1 Markii with the 150-400 TC lens for a trip to India for a tiger and other animal safari. The images were in most cases better than I was getting with my Z9 and the 180-600mm. She had more reach. Once she started to post process all the issues that most are concerned about noise, ability to crop in post etc were not an issue. Also there was another person on our trip who had used OM for 11+ years and was very happy and also very helpful.
After the trip I have sold all my Nikon equipment and moved to OM systems. I do not sell my images and the ability to have both our kits in one camera bag plus the lower weight and some of the advanced features of the OM body I have really enjoyed the move. As for some setup help this website was very good
https://www.philnortonphotographyblog.co.uk/om-system-om1-mk2-guide
You will enjoy your new camera and lens and don't forget to use the precapture mode with some of your Nikon friends (OM captures in RAW!) to get some awesome BIF taking off images.
After the trip I have sold all my Nikon equipment and moved to OM systems. I do not sell my images and the ability to have both our kits in one camera bag plus the lower weight and some of the advanced features of the OM body I have really enjoyed the move. As for some setup help this website was very good
https://www.philnortonphotographyblog.co.uk/om-system-om1-mk2-guide
You will enjoy your new camera and lens and don't forget to use the precapture mode with some of your Nikon friends (OM captures in RAW!) to get some awesome BIF taking off images.
Jun 15, 2026 at 06:01 AM
p.1 #13Advice for a newbie
I am more than happy just playing around at the moment, the menu system feels clunky at the moment, but once I have been out a few times and worked out which settings I want to commonly change I can start to assign shortcuts.
It doesn't matter how many times I use it, the stabilisation still blows me away with how good it is, and so much reach in a handheld package.
It doesn't matter how many times I use it, the stabilisation still blows me away with how good it is, and so much reach in a handheld package.
Jun 15, 2026 at 12:27 PM
p.1 #14Advice for a newbie
Frederik0711 wrote:
Before purchasing the 300 Pro, I heavily considered the 100-400 II, but the former makes more sense to me with its speed and image quality with teleconverters, and I found a reasonably priced used copy.
The 100-400 is a big lens, biggest I have ever owned, but for someone starting out, the range is really useful while I find my feet and develop the technique needed for birds
Before purchasing the 300 Pro, I heavily considered the 100-400 II, but the former makes more sense to me with its speed and image quality with teleconverters, and I found a reasonably priced used copy.
The 100-400 is a big lens, biggest I have ever owned, but for someone starting out, the range is really useful while I find my feet and develop the technique needed for birds
Jun 15, 2026 at 12:30 PM
p.1 #15Advice for a newbie
Sounds reasonable. I found the system and menu easy to learn and memorise after some weeks. I am still learning the nitty-gritty after some months. Some tutorials and testing gets one a long way.
The 100-400 II is a great lens, and I did not intend to push you towards the 300. In many cases, the zoom is better suited, especially with its versatility and when uncertain. It is light and small for what it is, but it is big if you never handled such a lens. You will get used to it.
I recommend connecting a plate or anchor point to the lens foot and attaching a strap to it (I use a Peak Design Slide, but you can use whatever can connect to the plate). This will take some pressure off the camera mount and you, as it is better balanced, as well as being easy to just swing up. That goes for any lens which is much heavier than the camera.
Have fun, feel free to ask questions, and I am looking forward to see your images.
The 100-400 II is a great lens, and I did not intend to push you towards the 300. In many cases, the zoom is better suited, especially with its versatility and when uncertain. It is light and small for what it is, but it is big if you never handled such a lens. You will get used to it.
I recommend connecting a plate or anchor point to the lens foot and attaching a strap to it (I use a Peak Design Slide, but you can use whatever can connect to the plate). This will take some pressure off the camera mount and you, as it is better balanced, as well as being easy to just swing up. That goes for any lens which is much heavier than the camera.
Have fun, feel free to ask questions, and I am looking forward to see your images.
Jun 15, 2026 at 03:00 PM
p.1 #16Advice for a newbie
Frederik0711 wrote:
My biggest recommendations are to customise most if not all of the buttons to your liking, use custom modes for specific genres and scenes, experiment with lower shutter speeds than adviced when possible, and use hightlight&shadow clipping thresholds. The OM-1 II is heavily customisable, birds are dynamic, and one will often change settings. Procapture is also a really great standout setting as well from what I have heard, though I have not tried it yet.
The stabilisation is wonderful, and if the bird is quite still, you can get away with very low shutter speeds. For instance, I have no...Show more →
Thanks for bringing up the S-OVF subject. That's an issue that I didn't know how to solve when using my 90 Macro with a flash. I've been shooting with that dark viewfinder and trying to figure out how to focus
My biggest recommendations are to customise most if not all of the buttons to your liking, use custom modes for specific genres and scenes, experiment with lower shutter speeds than adviced when possible, and use hightlight&shadow clipping thresholds. The OM-1 II is heavily customisable, birds are dynamic, and one will often change settings. Procapture is also a really great standout setting as well from what I have heard, though I have not tried it yet.
The stabilisation is wonderful, and if the bird is quite still, you can get away with very low shutter speeds. For instance, I have no...Show more →
Thanks for bringing up the S-OVF subject. That's an issue that I didn't know how to solve when using my 90 Macro with a flash. I've been shooting with that dark viewfinder and trying to figure out how to focus
Jun 18, 2026 at 03:37 PM
p.1 #17Advice for a newbie
Anyone able to recommend a flash for focus bracketing?
I bought a Godox TT350o, but I don't think it will cut it, even at 1/32 I am only getting 10 shots before it needs to charge..
I bought a Godox TT350o, but I don't think it will cut it, even at 1/32 I am only getting 10 shots before it needs to charge..
Jul 24, 2026 at 10:45 AM
p.1 #18Advice for a newbie
wastedimages wrote:
Anyone able to recommend a flash for focus bracketing?
I bought a Godox TT350o, but I don't think it will cut it, even at 1/32 I am only getting 10 shots before it needs to charge..
seems a bit strange
I have no major problems with mine on its strength
Most of the time it works well 20-35 pictures even at 1/16 and at 1/32 I have managed almost 50
Did you buy the more expensive version Godox Ving V350 Speedliter
TTL & HSS with Li-ion ?
Ronny
Jul 24, 2026 at 11:15 AM
p.1 #19Advice for a newbie
No, it is the TT350o @£63, initially I was at 1/10, but that failed after 5 shots.
Maybe I have a setting that I have set wrong, will have a play.
Thinking about it, maybe it is cheap batteries, will get something a bit better and test
Maybe I have a setting that I have set wrong, will have a play.
Thinking about it, maybe it is cheap batteries, will get something a bit better and test
Jul 24, 2026 at 11:25 AM
p.1 #20Advice for a newbie
OK, better batteries have helped, I am getting more shots at 1/32 though not 50.
I do have a question over focus bracketing, should I start with MF for the initial focus point or should I stay in AF and just move my focus point to the front of whatever I am capturing.
I do have a question over focus bracketing, should I start with MF for the initial focus point or should I stay in AF and just move my focus point to the front of whatever I am capturing.
Jul 29, 2026 at 01:13 PM