For my new A7RVI, I'm using the Kirk bracket from my A7RV or perhaps A7RIV. It fits perfectly and allows access to the battery and all the ports. RRS gear is lovely but, in my opinion, seriously overpriced.
regulator wrote:
Has anyone discovered an intervelometer / remote trigger that works with the new body yet?
You can use the app as a remote control and the camera has a built in intervalometer that is very good. I may not completely understand your use case but wanted you to know it's on menu page 8 in the camera.
InFocus2014 wrote:
There are those of us who have the mental deficiency that serves to seek instant gratification and dopamine hits, all aroused by manufacturer pre-release propaganda contrived to do just that. Therefore, we (of questionable mental stability) have learned, over time in this same cycle, to endure living without such "necessities" for the initial period of newly-released equipment ownership. Rinse and repeat.
I learned a different lesson over the years. ;-)
For me, the lesson was that I can wait a bit longer and the new thing will seem just as new… and I won’t have to compromise my photography in the meantime by trying to work without stuff I need.
YMMV, and apparently does. ;-)
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doc4x5 wrote:
For my new A7RVI, I'm using the Kirk bracket from my A7RV or perhaps A7RIV. It fits perfectly and allows access to the battery and all the ports. RRS gear is lovely but, in my opinion, seriously overpriced.
I hear you. I have a lot of RRS stuff (tripods, heads, brackets, plates) and some Kirk.
I’m interested to hear that the old “bracket” (an L-bracket) works on the new camera. If it does “fit perfectly,” why are you buying a different tone?
I had trouble seeing this juvenile gannet and used the focus box to keep the bird in the frame. Bear in mind these are approximately APS-C sized crops of the original image.
Usually a difficult situation for many cameras (you know who you are )
1/4000s seems to work well for avoiding motion blur at 800mm(400-800).
Pretty much every frame has sharp eyes with no sign of motion blur which I never achieved at slower shutter speeds although you might need a 5k or 6K display to see that clearly.
Not really any sign of rolling shutter distortion on any of the frames of these birds.
I didn't shoot anything for a week, so I picked up the A7RVI to shoot some hummingbirds this morning. Some shots definitely show the rolling effect. You can see a vague third wing or elongated wings. For that type of shooting I will stick with my A1II.
Douglas L wrote:
I didn't shoot anything for a week, so I picked up the A7RVI to shoot some hummingbirds this morning. Some shots definitely show the rolling effect. You can see a vague third wing or elongated wings. For that type of shooting I will stick with my A1II.
Thanks for these examples, in which the electronic shutter definitely didn't work for these hummers. We have seen examples when it did, but these suggest that whether it does or not is not a simple yes or no answer. Sometimes it will work just fine. Sometimes the results will be clearly problematic. Sometimes the effect will be mild and will bother some people and not others.
Knowing that is helpful. Some may still choose to use the camera in electronic shutter mode just deleting the photos that are clearly problematic. Others might not want to risk it and will use a camera with a faster sensor scan speed or use the mechanical shutter.
