Jack Flesher wrote:
Thank you. As re internal Sony noise stack capture, the A7R6 apparently does —though I have not confirmed it— output a single corrected file from that internal noise capture stack.
It says pretty clearly in the manual that it can't be done in camera.
Jack Flesher wrote:
Thank you. As re internal Sony noise stack capture, the A7R6 apparently does —though I have not confirmed it— output a single corrected file from that internal noise capture stack.
It would be nice if the camera did it internally but may be too CPU intensive for on the fly. If you read the link Duncan posted this is confirmation that it does not;
"You can create low-noise images that cannot be achieved with normal shooting by continuously shooting 4 to 32 RAW images and then combining them on a computer. To combine multiple RAW images, dedicated software is needed.
Number of Shots:
Sets the number of images shot with noise reduction shooting. ([4 shots]/[8 shots]/[16 shots]/[32 shots])
Note
RAW images recorded with [NR Shooting] cannot be combined using the camera. Use Imaging Edge Desktop (Viewer) to combine the images."
Jack Flesher wrote:
Hmmm. I am relatively new to Sony. It was baked in with Nikon and Fuji, so I assumed Sony did the same. I searched specifically for Sony and got this:
>>
How It Works on RAW Files
• In-Camera Processing: When Long Exposure NR is set to On and your shutter speed is 1 second or longer, the camera takes your main exposure and then immediately takes a second "dark frame" (a blank exposure with the shutter closed) for the exact same duration.
• Baked-In Subtraction: The camera subtracts the dark frame (which contains hot pixels and sensor thermal/amp noise) directly from the sensor data before it writes the file to your memory card.
• The Result: The saved RAW file is already cleaned of hot pixels and pattern noise. You cannot "turn off" or remove this dark-frame subtraction later in post-processing, nor can you retrieve the separate dark frame itself.
<<
Which is exactly how it worked for me before with Nikon and Fuji. I normally leave it off because it doubles the capture time, and then deal with it in post using AI noise tools. Hence, I have not actually tried it with Sony yet, so if Sony works differently then my above suggestion may be wrong, or at least more problematic. ...Show more →
Dark frames remove hot and cold pixel. Stacking (multiple exposures) improves signal to noise. If you are stacking there's a benefit to also shooting dark frames but little need to process those calibration files in-camera. Typically you would shoot multiple dark frames at the same shutter speed as the image you captured. How many dark frames is a bit tricky to determine due to camera heating. With a cooled astrophotography camera with the same Sony sensor typically 25-50 dark frames are produced. The number of frames shot in astrophotography seems like a lot to those unfamiliar with that specialty, but the math proves the benefit to noise reduction.
BigBabyMoses06 wrote:
Used the R6 for some varsity girls soccer yesterday!
Just some notes to share if anyone cares. I did notice the AF struggled a little more keep up with and track a faster sport (compared to field hockey). Have a handful of missed shots (back or front focused). I played with turning on/off subject tracking with a custom AF area, and when I turned it off, the camera would only focus on the very bottom row of the box, regardless of the box size, and behaved quite strange. Occasionally it would appear to nail focus, with the green box on the players eye/face, but when I reviewed the images that set of shots was completely back focused on an object 10-15 feet behind the players. This happened when the subject was far away only.
Noticed the rolling shutter more as well, in the soccer ball and background verticals like poles and fences, but not horrible yet. I think this is about the limit that I would be comfortable using the R6 for ball sports. Still want to try basketball and wrestling this winter.
Very good shots! So far your post is the most detailed one on fast sports with A7RVI. Do you think A7RVI is good enough for occasional shooting of junior ice hockey? I searched "a7rvi + ice hockey" in FM but didn't get much info.
I'm looking for a do-everything (travel, walk around, kids hockey/soccer games) camera to replace my A7RV, which struggles when I shoot hockey games. Like many, I'm hesitating between a new A7RVI and a used A1 ii (or A1). Appreciate it!
