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Re-entering film maybe, need info!

  
 
jimmuller
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p.1 #1 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


A few months ago I started a thread about shooting film again. Now I have a bigger temptation and a bigger dilemma.

I shot slides with a Nikkormat since the early 70's, never developed anything myself, then switched to pocket-digital, then to phones, now to a mirrorless Z5-II w/FTZ for my original vintage F-mount lenses. I really like the combination, the convenience of digital and MF lenses to make me think about my shots.. Since buying the Z5-II I've gathered more great FM lenses. My Nikkormat keeps calling but so far I've resisted the temptation. But that will change in a few days.

This weekend I will be visiting a friend who is presenting me with five more lenses, a few other goodies, and two vintage Nikon bodies, a 1980 F2 with a meterless viewfinder and a 1973 F Photomic FTn with meter. Both are fully functional though with minor flaws. I have a local source for the Wein MRB625 battery to power my Nikkormat and the F Photomic, and the light meter he promised to throw in. But I have no idea what to do with them.

I could shoot slides again, probably Ektachrome. I've read about c-41 color developing which presumably I could do, but I have no idea how much trouble it is or how one disposes of the solutions, let alone how much it costs. With slide film I have no idea how one would mount them. Like in the old days, I could.send them away for developing and mounting. I have a good rig for scanning slides and 35mm film, but if that's all I want why use a film camera at all? At least pulling out the slide projector every so often is a fun activity (which I haven't done in decades).

Alternatively I could load B&W film in at least one of those F cameras or my Nikkormat. I read that Ilford XP2 can be processed with c-41, which again raises the question of whether I could do it myself. But it re-asks the question why. I can shoot B&W with the Z5-II. Truth be told, I'm not so fond of B&W, which says stick with color. ('m not such a good photographer that I'd take pride in capturing a great B&W image.)

So a fun activity yes, but maybe not so practical. Every way I spin the question comes down to how much trouble and cost it is and what kind of film and processing. If I can't resolve those questions, then none of those film cameras is worth pursuing.

None of you can resolve what I want to do but you can answer the practicality questions. Any advice?

Thanks!



Mar 12, 2026 at 04:44 PM
madNbad
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p.1 #2 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


The bigger question is do you have a plan for converting negatives or digitizing slides? Is it something you are interested in exploring? Then there is the gear and software.

If it's a path you feel is feasible, if not practical, we're here to help.



Mar 12, 2026 at 05:05 PM
OregonSun
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p.1 #3 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


Start with one roll each of slide and color negative, pay for dev/mount and scan them yourself since you have a rig for that. If you like the results/experience, continue. If at some point you find you're spending too much on dev, try doing that yourself too.


Mar 12, 2026 at 05:05 PM
jimmuller
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p.1 #4 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


madNbad wrote:
The bigger question is do you have a plan for converting negatives or digitizing slides? Is it something you are interested in exploring? Then there is the gear and software.

If it's a path you feel is feasible, if not practical, we're here to help.


---------------------------------------------

OregonSun wrote:
Start with one roll each of slide and color negative, pay for dev/mount and scan them yourself since you have a rig for that. If you like the results/experience, continue. If at some point you find you're spending too much on dev, try doing that yourself too.


I do have the ability to scan film or slides. (I've been scanning the 1000+ slides from the old days.) I don't have any way to develop, ort mount transparency film in slide holders, so dev'ing them myself might not be an option. That's part of what I'm asking.



Mar 12, 2026 at 05:10 PM
Desmolicious
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p.1 #5 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


If you want to just see if you like the film vibe including using the cameras again, just get a roll of color print film like Fuji or Kodak 200 - whichever is cheapest (they are both good) - go out and have fun just take pics of stuff, get it developed and scanned and see what you get.
I’d initially pay for the dev/scan to see if you like it before investing in gear and chems to do it yourself.

Also I wouldn’t bother w the light meters in the Nikkormat or F2 photomic. Every one I’ve seen and/or used have no longer been accurate. Age has done in those cells. So just meter using Sunny F16 or a free lightmeter app.



Mar 12, 2026 at 05:15 PM
madNbad
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p.1 #6 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


The local shop charges seven dollars a roll to develop C41 then I scan it myself. I develop my B&W films but take my color film to them.


Mar 12, 2026 at 05:16 PM
OregonSun
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p.1 #7 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


jimmuller wrote:
---------------------------------------------

I do have the ability to scan film or slides. (I've been scanning the 1000+ slides from the old days.) I don't have any way to develop, ort mount transparency film in slide holders, so dev'ing them myself might not be an option. That's part of what I'm asking.


Dev'ing yourself just requires buying stuff, learning how to use it, and finding the time to do it. Only you can decide if the eventual cost savings would be worth it to you. I've been paying my local lab for dev only and scanning myself since I started shooting film again over 10 years ago. The convenience has outweighed the cost for me.

All I'm saying is try out a couple rolls and pay for dev/mount since you already have everything else you need. That will give you some actual experience to inform your ultimate decision.



Mar 12, 2026 at 05:32 PM
OffTrail
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p.1 #8 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


jimmuller wrote:
But it re-asks the question why. I can shoot B&W with the Z5-II. Truth be told, I'm not so fond of B&W, which says stick with color.


A, I don't think the ability to shoot B&W in your Z5II raises the question "why". Today, film really is a process-first medium. If you don't like the process, the results are irrelevant. I don't say that to be gatekeep-y, it's just a practical matter. Plenty of people like the look of film, but just find the whole process to be a total PITA.

2, most larger county dumps accept photo chemicals for disposal.

D, developing at home is pretty straightforward. If you've got the time, space, and inclination to do it, it's about like making coffee.

But I agree with @OregonSun@, just shoot some film and have a lab do the work to see if you like that side of the process. If you do, it'll make committing to the rest of the home dev setup a lot easier.



Mar 12, 2026 at 06:08 PM
jay w
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p.1 #9 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


I agree with OffTrial. You have to figure out why you're doing it. Just liking how the camera/lens feels in your hands and the sound of the shutter is enough for enjoyment. I actually enjoy the darkroom since I now have time to devote to it. I'd say that digital is more convenient, faster, and actually, has been quality in many ways that film, so you better like the process film if you go that way.

I'm not a fan of color negative film, so I've always shot slide or BW. Slide is so expensive now that (once my slide film stock is gone), I'll probably only shoot BW. For me, digital is fine for color.




Mar 12, 2026 at 06:59 PM
Tina Kino
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p.1 #10 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


jimmuller wrote:
Any advice?


I suppose the majority of the questions you're asking yourself only you can answer - by figuring out what it is you want (or by try and error) 💁‍♂️

Regarding the developing your own film though I'd strongly suggest you do a dozen rolls of black & white before trying c-41 or e-6, as the latter is much more of a hassle.



Mar 13, 2026 at 01:46 AM
 


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Oscarsmadness
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p.1 #11 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


We can help you with theoreticals on this forum, but my hunch is that the best answers to some of those questions will come by forging ahead and doing it. The only way to find out if this is worth it is to do it.

Some things worth a thought:
E-6 at home is generally not advisable. The chemicals require special care and the tolerances are so narrow.
Color negative dev is doable at home. People on this forum have had success with this. I personally am happy to send to the lab for C-41.
I do my own B&W, like a lot of folks here do. It's easy.

You're leaning to color, so I recommend getting a roll of Ektar 100. Let the lab handle the development and then scan it yourself. If all goes well, then try slide. If you hated it or if you discover a malfunction in the camera, at least you don't lose a roll of slide film. And by this point, I think you'll know what you want to do.



Mar 13, 2026 at 03:00 AM
jimmuller
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p.1 #12 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


OffTrail wrote
...Today, film really is a process-first medium.


And that is exactly why I phrased my original post the way I did. The only "process" I know about film is taking an exposed roll.to a shop and waiting for the results to, ah, roll in. That's hardly a process, and certainly not involving other than loading film in the camera. Unlike digital, it has downsides such as cost and no immediate return. If I'm going to jump in, the water had better not be too cold.

So I was wanting to learn about possible "more involving" options. I believe I have. So thank you all. But keep responding!



Mar 13, 2026 at 05:54 AM
jay w
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p.1 #13 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


Just a comment on processing color. In school in the 80s, we had to mix up E-6 chemistry and develop a roll. The lesson I remember is that even if the chemicals are mixed carefully and "correctly" the color balance will not be spot on. We were shooting gray cards and using a densitometer to measure color. The color balance from processing your own is probably close enough, but a lab will (well, should) mix the chemistry and then run control strips and adjust the chem to give results that are within acceptable limits...so likely better results. In the 80s, I made the decision to never process my own color film (although I think color neg may be less fickle). Now E-6 processing is $6 a sheet of 4x5 (which I still have in the freezer), so I'll have to recalculate. $15/roll somehow sounds more reasonable.


Mar 13, 2026 at 09:28 AM
bjhurley
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p.1 #14 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


I agree about trying Ektar. It's a color negative film but probably the closest you'll get to the slide film you remember in terms of sharpness, low grain, and saturated colors (it can do weird color shifts in bright sunlight though). I'm not a fan of Ektachrome and a roll of Provia and Velvia plus E6 processing costs more than several of my cameras (when you can even find those films). So despite having shot slide film exclusively for 30 years I'm happy to shoot negatives now.


Mar 13, 2026 at 10:03 AM
Oscarsmadness
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p.1 #15 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


Here's a different idea. Find a lab that has darkroom classes, and take a class. Even if you know how to do everything already, it will allow you to go through all the motions without first investing in processing equipment. The class likely will be B&W only, but the mechanics are similar. Dump, slosh, dump, slosh, dump, slosh, etc. in the dark. C-41 is like B&W on steroids, plus a thermometer. E-6 is somewhere between C-41 and rocket science.

If you don't like it, then you know this isn't going to work. Of course, this assumes such a lab with an opportunity exists where you live.



Mar 13, 2026 at 11:41 AM
Taperwing
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p.1 #16 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


Souping B+W film at home is an easily learned, and relatively inexpensive pursuit. Three basic chemicals are required, (1) Developer (I like XTOL, but D76, HC110, and Rodinal are the original standards), (2) Fixer (non-hardening) and (3) Photo-Flo. Then you need a some storage containers for your chemistry, a simple thermometer, a daylight processing tank (with a reel for whatever size film you have, Patterson is good plastic tank and comes with an easy to load, adjustable reel), and fully darkened room (to load the exposed film into the processing tank). Small, light-tight, tabletop loading tents are also available for not too much money. Clear negative storgage sheets and a binder are also good, even if you are having someone else process.

All that said, you looking in the range of $100 to get fully up and running with new gear. Might be able to scrounge some cheaper gear on Craigslist of FBMarketplace. Still probably makes sense to have your first couple of rolls processed commercially, just to see if jumping back into film makes sense for you. For me, going back to 35mm didn't scratch much of an itch, but medium format did.



Mar 13, 2026 at 12:07 PM
OffTrail
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p.1 #17 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


jimmuller wrote:
And that is exactly why I phrased my original post the way I did. The only "process" I know about film is taking an exposed roll.to a shop and waiting for the results to, ah, roll in. That's hardly a process, and certainly not involving other than loading film in the camera. Unlike digital, it has downsides such as cost and no immediate return. If I'm going to jump in, the water had better not be too cold.

So I was wanting to learn about possible "more involving" options. I believe I have. So thank you all. But keep responding!


Dropping off at a lab is an entirely valid way to engage with film. Home development is absolutely doable for just about anyone, but it isn't for everyone. For instance, I don't like staying on top of C-41 shelf life or exhaustion, and while I do usually shoot enough C41 to support doing it myself, I still find it much more convenient to have my local lab process it for me. I don't have them cut or scan, just process. It's $5 per roll, usually ready next day.

As for home development, C-41, ECN-2, and E-6 require fairly precise temperature control. I've done C-41 using a water bath, but if I do it again, it'll be with a sous vide circulator or a Jobo. Still, the water bath works. You can usually do 16 or 32 rolls per batch with most of the kits I see, but you're not going to get a lot of shelf life out of the mixed chemicals. You would ideally have steady work, or you could wait and do batches. Some people mix from scratch ( @lifeandmylens@ had a write-up detailing his ECN-2 process, for instance), but that's not something I've tried. But actual color development is easy and it's meant to be a very standard development process.

B&W can be as simple or as complicated as you like. There's monobath, there are tons of developers, there are different dilutions, different methods of agitation, optional rinse steps, etc. It's generally done at room temp, but nothing is ever written in stone. Even room temp isn't always the same. So B&W can take a bit of experimentation to get to a point where you're happy, but the process itself is very easy.

Typical gear to do this is a changing bag, some tanks and reels, ways to measure liquids, bottles for storing chemicals, a good instant-read thermometer is nice, funnels, clips to hang the film, scissors, etc.



Mar 13, 2026 at 04:14 PM
bwcolor
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p.1 #18 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


I returned to film last year after fifteen years of only digital. I just purchased an X2Dii, but rarely use it because I’m really taken by all the film stocks and the process. I’ve since greatly upgraded my film copy setup and am about to get back to E6, C41 and B&W developing at home. I’m just getting back to B&W in that I’ve been shooting Ektar, Portra, and E100. I swore that I would never go back to B&W film since I love my M11 Monochrom, but I was wrong. Lots of fun, but start out simple with limited film stocks. I too would suggest Ektar if you liked Velvia and send out for development. Should you decide to go further and start processing film at home, there are many threads with great advice, but start out by sending everything out. I tried a few labs and many negatives came back quite dirty. I settled on Citizen Camera in Portland and have been happy since.

Lastly, after looking at many film images and reading the forums, I became convinced that at least 35mm was a low resolution proposition much like standard TV is to 4K. I was wrong and I think I know why. Every step of the film process is critical and at each step you can loose, or retain detail. This is where optical printing with high quality optics raises film to another level. That said, if you attend to great lens optics, a camera that holds the film flat, quality development with fresh stock and then there is the last part of the process and where I noticed many cut corners with the assumption that the information just isn’t there. I went a different direction. Rather than find the cheapest stand that holds my camera, I purchased a used industrial copy stand and quality gear to hold and illuminate the film. Lastly, I moved from the Sony A7CR/Tamron 90mm Macro to an X2D/120mm Hasselblad Macro. Beyond that, I shoot using the camera tethered to Phocus in four shot pixelshift mode. I didn’t intend to use the X2D, but once the X2D2 came out, the resale value dropped so much that I decided to sell my Sony gear and M11M and just stay with Hasselblad and film.



Mar 13, 2026 at 05:54 PM
jimmuller
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p.1 #19 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!


Thank you all for your input helping me decide which bridge to jump off. No, wait, wrong metaphor. Which end of the pool to jump into. I went to my local Hunts, bought a roll of Ultramax 400 and a Wein mrb625 battery. I put the battery in the Nikkormat and the meter seems to work properly! After I've used up the film I will post some scans. Then I'll try one of those oldfangled bodies I got on Saturday. Will have to play with them first. Both are seemingly more complex than the Nikkormat.

Cheers!



Mar 16, 2026 at 04:36 PM
James Markus
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p.1 #20 · Re-entering film maybe, need info!




jimmuller wrote:
Thank you all for your input helping me decide which bridge to jump off. No, wait, wrong metaphor. Which end of the pool to jump into. I went to my local Hunts, bought a roll of Ultramax 400 and a Wein mrb625 battery. I put the battery in the Nikkormat and the meter seems to work properly! After I've used up the film I will post some scans. Then I'll try one of those oldfangled bodies I got on Saturday. Will have to play with them first. Both are seemingly more complex than the Nikkormat.

Cheers!


Jim, Is it possible you are over analyzing this? Other than converting old slides to digital, there has seemed to be some nostalgia associated with how the images were created intially. You can go to the grocery and buy bread - even artisnal bread, but making your own can be enjoyable If you enjoy it - does any of the other bits matter?



Mar 17, 2026 at 06:56 AM
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