p.2 #2 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
I have tried multiple apps on the iPhone and „lightme“ is by far the best imo.
Some features I appreciate and that set it apart from many other phone apps:
- You can select the film stock and it will automatically account for reciprocity failure (if there is no info available for the film, you can manually set the reciprocity failure formula as a fallback)
- it has a Reflective and Spot meter mode that you can seamlessly switch between
- you can seamlessly assign a Zone to the Spot meter reading
Just great functionality and a very intuitive user interface imo.
p.2 #3 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
I love my pentax spotmeter. I can measure the light on exactly what I want. As well as keep an eye on the tonal range of the scene. If I happen to have a whole roll in similar conditions I can push or pull the roll.
p.2 #4 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
Sunny 16 most of the time while I too lazy have Sekonic with me.
If I'm shooting in complex lighting situation or indoor I would use my phone or Sekonic
I have Sekonic 508 ( spot ) and 308 meter, also have voigtlander light meter ii but this one is always on my m cameras.
p.2 #5 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
True bliss is walking around with a Zorki 6 and just going ‘commando’ on the exposure. F4 and be there. Zone focus for the win.
Why would you shoot slide film in medium format? I guess there are projectors? But if you are going to scan them? I understand that give the photographer more control versus the dark-room/scanner. MF slide film was a magazine thing, right?
Not sexy or cool, but a cheap digital camera that will show exposure and a histogram seems to be the simplist way…
p.2 #6 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
From college days until I started using more studio flash I had relied on the Sekonic 398. My old ones still work. But ever since moving up to the 358 I find the digital read out much more accurate and easier to read. But it looks like Sekonic has stipped making it. I also have had a Pentax 1 degree spot meter I used for 4x5 zone system work. But for some reason I cannot read the digital screen outdoors, probably an age thing. So I picked up a Sekonic 758 that does both incident and spot metering with a screen I can read in all conditions. It also does some quasy zone system thing that I’ll never use or need.
p.2 #7 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
When I shot Leica and LTM cameras I depended on Sunny 16 and my iPhone's metering app. Which meant that my shutter speed almost never changed since I correlated it with film speed.
But 36 exposures is different than a dozen or so of MF (and certainly not on slide film). I would want spot metering.
p.2 #8 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
I just wing it with 35mm, works for me. I'm generally on 1/125 for everyday photos so just treat it like shutter priority mode and adjust aperture if it's shade/sun, white/black etc, there's not many variables really once you get used to it.
With MF and more important shots where I want to be sure, I use a light meter, normally in incident mode not reflected. I prefer having a dedicated tool rather than futzing with my phone but whatever gets you there.
p.2 #9 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
anselwannab wrote:
True bliss is walking around with a Zorki 6 and just going ‘commando’ on the exposure. F4 and be there. Zone focus for the win.
Why would you shoot slide film in medium format? I guess there are projectors? But if you are going to scan them? I understand that give the photographer more control versus the dark-room/scanner. MF slide film was a magazine thing, right?
Not sexy or cool, but a cheap digital camera that will show exposure and a histogram seems to be the simplest way…
Set the WB on that digital camera to Daylight and you will be able to even judge the color temperature by looking at the RGB histogram
And as an added bonus take pictures when circumstances call for it
p.2 #10 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
For years, I shot with a Minolta Flashmeter III. It was very consistent and I was able to nail Velvia every shot. I used it in reflective mode rather than incident. This spring (37 years later), it took a crap on me by overexposing 3.5 stops. I would have rather it simply quit since I shot a few rolls at +3.5 stops. Anyway, I bought another for $50 (ebay). Sekonics are popular and more expensive, but I really like the Minolta. (Be sure to there is the incident dome and case if you're purchasing on ebay.)
p.2 #11 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
anselwannab wrote:
True bliss is walking around with a Zorki 6 and just going ‘commando’ on the exposure. F4 and be there. Zone focus for the win.
Why would you shoot slide film in medium format? I guess there are projectors? But if you are going to scan them? I understand that give the photographer more control versus the dark-room/scanner. MF slide film was a magazine thing, right?
Not sexy or cool, but a cheap digital camera that will show exposure and a histogram seems to be the simplist way…
Slide film gives a different look to negative. Well exposed Velvia and Ektachrome have a look that can't really be reproduced by negative film or digital emulations.
p.2 #13 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
I use a phone app. It works. The vast majority of my exposures are within 1/3 stop of where they need to be. Exception: Phoenix I and II, because the true speed was an educated guess.
I do not shoot slide. If I did shoot slide, I'd appreciate the peace of mind of using a meter.
p.2 #14 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
bjhurley wrote:
The two main issues I've found with shoe-mount meters is that:
1. They have a tendency to slip off. Usually they slip off in my bag, but sometimes they slip off while I'm pulling the camera out of the bag and in a couple of cases they ended up in places where I couldn't retrieve them.
2. The ones with displays on the top can be impossible to read in sunny conditions. This is my problem with the Hedeco Lime II meter, for example.
3. As madNbad noted above, they are reflective only. Although that's also true with built-in meters on SLRs etc so it's not really a dealbreaker; it's just that if I'm going to be using a meter I'd rather have ability to choose between reflected and incident....Show more →
A good way to deal with meter slippage I've found is to take electrical or duct tape and apply it to the bottom of the meter, or to the bottom of the actual flash mount on the camera. If you're applying the tape to the shoe on the meter, cut a piece slightly longer than the shoe itself, where if you fold the excess up it'll match the height of the shoe. Apply it starting from the back of the shoe so that way the excess will fold up onto the front. This way, whenever you go to slide the shoe in it won't catch the edge of the tape and peel it back.
p.2 #16 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
dpsaiz wrote:
I use a Sekonic L-208 meter that mounts on the cold shoe of my Fujifilm GW690ll.
It's very easy to use. I also use the Sekonic L-358. I almost never use the camera metering
I had the GSW690III for many years and it has a hot shoe. I'm pretty sure the GW690II does also.
Back in the 90s I used the Minolta Autometer IVF (flash) for metering exposures. I had the 10° reflective optical viewing attachment IIRC, but also used the dome and flat incident diffusers for various purposes like studio flash with other gear.
p.2 #18 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
I meter with digital DLSR/ILCE I usually have with me along film or have a old simple Sekonic 208
Sunny day ISO 100 F11 1/250 is rule of thumb I use too if I have some doubts with Sekonic output (It has no Spot mode)
p.2 #20 · How do you meter with a camera with no meter?
Geoff D F wrote:
Planing to shoot the Fujifilm GSW690. It's fully manual and lacks a meter.
What would you suggest - phone app, one of those little Chinese meters, another camera, Sekonic incident meter (I can'tafford a spot meter)? Will be outdoors shooting landscapes and architecture.
I can probably sunny 16 a film like Gold, but also thinking of shooting some Ektachrome.
You've been posting some great pictures and even using a polaizer. How did you decide to meter the scene?
