Nielk Mike wrote:
gyoung143 wrote
Nielk Mike wrote
gdanmitchell wrote
ruthenium wrote
Dan, I did NOT write “larger sensor collects more light”… Quoting the post I was replying to…
ruthenium wrote
The GFX100 sensor collects 1 stop of light more than a FF sensor, while a FF sensor collects 1.5 stops more light than the APS-C. - - -
Regarding, separately, the “focus beyond infinity” issue…
gyoung143 wrote
You mileage obviously varies, as they say. My observations of using my 14mm on Xpro2 and Xt3 since my early days with Fuji is that the indication is unreliable when af-s is used. You can focus several times on the same point in a scence and get a different reading each time, but I am satisfied that the actual focus point is the same, within minor and acceptable variation. Same thing happens with my 18-55 when on 18mm. 23mm f/2 I have behaves much more consistently.
Gerry If I recall correctly, these cameras AF at the set aperture rather than (as on DSLRs) the maximum lens aperture. Assuming my memory is correct, this means that when we shoot at smaller apertures the camera is trying to focus using a larger DOF, which would mean that the combination of diffraction blur (at really small aperture) and the larger DOF places a range of subjects within the “in focus” range.
If this is on the right track, the issue would be magnified when using wide angle lenses since a given subject element will be even small than it would be using a longer lens.
My hunch is that this is why we might be seeing the camera lock onto different-distance elements of the scene with very wide lenses shot at small apertures, perhaps. But the real world consequences would usually be minimal or even meaningless n the photograph, since I assume that the camera’s AF system is looking at more than one point in the image area and, at least, all of them in the Af zone should be in focus to a viewer. It depends. normally, DoF will cover for the camera not putting the focus where it was supposed to be. But: On a pixel level (when cropping), DoF is very narrow even with a wide angle lens. This leads to something that was suppose to be in critical focus to be just outside of it and to appear soft. DoF calculations include factors for magnification. Thus tge 'normal' DoF figure for a given aperture anf field of view are only 'true' if the whole image is viewed at 'normal viewing distance. If you alter those conditions, such as bt cropping, or viewing a part of the image by magnification then the DoF will be less. It's about how the image is viewed and was just as true when you looked at the image on an enlarger baseboard with a magnifier. It's nothing to do with 'digital' as such.
Gerry Exactly. That is why Fuji offers two different DoF scales :-)
Basically, DOF scales are so subjective as to be virtually useless.
Many years ago when I was a very young photographer, i mistakenly believed that everything within the supposed DOF zone would be “in focus” and that things outside of that zone would be “out of focus.”
But it is way more complicated and way more subjective than that.
Essentially, those DOF scales made a conditional prediction along the lines of: “Given typical expectations for how share is ‘sharp enough,’ stuff within the DOF zone is likely to not be so fuzzy that you’ll think it is out of focus as long as you make a print that isn’t all that large.”
But it is very subjective in real world photography. For example, a level of OOF that is OK for a 8x10 print is unlikely to be as acceptable in a 20” x 30” print, though by what degree depends on how you judge — nose-length close or so-called “normal viewing distance?”
today we push small image area captures (e.g. the size of a 24 x 36 35mm frame) to much larger final output, and often while asking for an even higher level of sharpness and detail than we accepted in the film era. For example, way back in the 35mm film era, we would regularly shoot at f/16 if we wanted more DOF. But today, many of us think twice before using that aperture unless we’re willing to sacrifice a bit of full-image softness due to diffraction in order to gain that bit of depth of field.
Once you learn the effect on final images of shooting with your camera’s DOF scale as a helper, it can be somewhat useful. But if sharpness is really critical you get in the habit of at least hitting the DOF preview button and inspecting elements of the scene that you consider important. I know, had to do that while shooting moving subjects with a handheld camera!