Also got to watch my grandson play baseball the day after watching my granddaughter. Felt pretty good about several pics and wanted to share. C&C appreciated as always.
#1 - attempted steal at 2nd
Canon EOS R5RF200-800mm F6.3-9 IS USM lens371mmf/7.11/2500s500 ISO-1.0 EV
#2 - successful steal at 2nd
Canon EOS R5RF70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM lens200mmf/2.81/5000s400 ISO0.0 EV
#3 - runner got caught in a pickle ....
Canon EOS R5m2RF200-800mm F6.3-9 IS USM lens214mmf/6.31/2000s640 ISO-0.3 EV
.... and ended up safe at 3rd!
Canon EOS R5m2RF200-800mm F6.3-9 IS USM lens208mmf/6.31/2000s640 ISO-0.3 EV
#5 - coach questions the umpires on an issue
Canon EOS R5RF200-800mm F6.3-9 IS USM lens600mmf/8.01/2500s1250 ISO-1.0 EV
Canon EOS R5RF200-800mm F6.3-9 IS USM lens707mmf/9.01/2500s640 ISO-1.0 EV
Unexpected bounce in the outfield gives an unexpected expression
Canon EOS R5m2RF200-800mm F6.3-9 IS USM lens277mmf/7.11/2500s1000 ISO-0.3 EV
Nice captures and good use of that 200-800 lens. If it's a game with enough light, I'd make the most of that zoom reach simply for the flexibility it offers. If you look at the focal length of the images here, only one could have been captured with the 70-200 and three were longer than 300mm. I'll post a few more of my thoughts in your other thread, but keep up the good work!
Scott Sewell wrote:
Nice captures and good use of that 200-800 lens. If it's a game with enough light, I'd make the most of that zoom reach simply for the flexibility it offers. If you look at the focal length of the images here, only one could have been captured with the 70-200 and three were longer than 300mm. I'll post a few more of my thoughts in your other thread, but keep up the good work!
You must be advocating for a 100-300 2.8! I will have to see how the PowerBall came out for me to see If I can get one.
argonphoto wrote:
Is shooting through chain link basically a non-issue if you’re close enough?
IMHO, you can get pretty clean photos as long as you are right up against the fence OR far away (then it's difficult for auto focus for some camera bodies) . The type of fence (netting or chain link) makes a difference along with the weather. Bright, sunny days give more reflection on a chain link fence. It's also important to have your lens oriented in the middle of an opening for chain link fences. With netting, it's best if you can push against it (although that makes your camera more vulnerable to damage from a ball). Shooting at f2.8 or your biggest aperture make a positive difference, too.
In July, I was shooting my grandson's baseball game and my 10-year-old granddaughter helped out shooting. I gave her an R5 + RF 70-200 f2.8. I was shooting at the low fence past 3rd base and she wanted to shoot batters from the 1st base side of home plate. At one point, I looked over to see her a few feet from the fence (guess I hadn't explained well enough!). Below are a few of her shots to demonstrate issues with being away from the fence even if you are focused. Both shots are SOOC.
When standing away from the fence, as long as your lens is perpendicular, you might get some ok shots of what's in front of you (#1). However, as the angle becomes more acute or obtuse (depending on your perspective), you'll definitely run into issues that make the photo absolutely unusable (#2).
Best way for me is to have the lens hood touching or almost touching the fence and shooting with the lens perpendicular to the fence. As mentioned, orient the lens to the middle of an opening for chain link fence. Even at a slight angle, I can usually get photos that don't show much of an effect from the fence.
In terms of post-processing, I've found that LRC dehaze helps reduce some of the artifacts from shooting through a fence. On a few photos that I really wanted to salvage, I've also used the radial gradient mask and shaped it to cover the reflective area from the fence and then dehazed a bit or tried other adjustments to the lighting.
Those are some ideas of mine - I'm sure some others with more experience could chime in here.
#1 - my granddaughters shot of the batter running to first. She was shooting back from the fence but was at least almost perpendicular to it.
Canon EOS R5100mmf/2.81/4098s500 ISO
#2 - granddaughter's pic of the runner closer to first base. LOTS of reflection on the fence from this angle makes the photo unusable.
Canon EOS R589mmf/2.81/5319s250 ISO
#3 one of my pics from behind netting (pushed up against it)
Canon EOS R5EF300mm f/2.8L IS II USM lens300mmf/5.61/2500s320 ISO-0.7 EV
Wow that was very thoughtful and thorough - thank you!
The 100-400 and 70-200 are both on my shopping list but I'm prioritizing the 100-400 because landscapes is where most of my shooting tends to be. I hope that slow speed will suffice with the chain link until I cop the 70-200 as well.
crteach wrote:
IMHO, you can get pretty clean photos as long as you are right up against the fence OR far away (then it's difficult for auto focus for some camera bodies) . The type of fence (netting or chain link) makes a difference along with the weather. Bright, sunny days give more reflection on a chain link fence. It's also important to have your lens oriented in the middle of an opening for chain link fences. With netting, it's best if you can push against it (although that makes your camera more vulnerable to damage from a ball). Shooting at f2.8 or your biggest aperture make a positive difference, too.
In July, I was shooting my grandson's baseball game and my 10-year-old granddaughter helped out shooting. I gave her an R5 + RF 70-200 f2.8. I was shooting at the low fence past 3rd base and she wanted to shoot batters from the 1st base side of home plate. At one point, I looked over to see her a few feet from the fence (guess I hadn't explained well enough!). Below are a few of her shots to demonstrate issues with being away from the fence even if you are focused. Both shots are SOOC.
When standing away from the fence, as long as your lens is perpendicular, you might get some ok shots of what's in front of you (#1). However, as the angle becomes more acute or obtuse (depending on your perspective), you'll definitely run into issues that make the photo absolutely unusable (#2).
Best way for me is to have the lens cover touching or almost touching the fence and shooting with the lens perpendicular to the fence. As mentioned, orient the lens to the middle of an opening for chain link fence. Even at a slight angle, I can usually get photos that don't show much of an effect from the fence.
In terms of post-processing, I've found that LRC dehaze helps reduce some of the artifacts from shooting through a fence. On a few photos that I really wanted to salvage, I've also used the radial gradient mask and shaped it to cover the reflective area from the fence and then dehazed a bit or tried other adjustments to the lighting.
Those are some ideas of mine - I'm sure some others with more experience could chime in here.
Caleb Williams wrote:
You must be advocating for a 100-300 2.8! I will have to see how the PowerBall came out for me to see If I can get one.
Nope. While that lens is sweet, it's not the end-all, be-all lens for sports, IMO. Now, would I get one if I won the PowerBall? Likely. But I'm not sure I'm missing much without one. Good luck with the PB!!
argonphoto wrote:
Is shooting through chain link basically a non-issue if you’re close enough?
It can be a non-issue depending on a lot of factors. This video might help. With my 400/f2.8 I didn't have to be right up next to a fence or net. This video might help. It's an oldie, but still as relevant today as when I made it 16 years ago.
