p.1 #1 · Processing for color and B/W 120/220 Film
Where are those of you still using 120/220 film currently getting your film processed?
I have not shot any for several years now and am starting to get the "bug" again.
Thank you,
Douglas
p.1 #2 · Processing for color and B/W 120/220 Film
Colour is a different story, but would you consider processing black and white film yourself? It takes a bit of practice, but loading the film into the tank inside a change bag is not that difficult. I'm done and done with film, but when I last got bitten by the bug I used TMAX and HC-110 -- a nice combination that was very easy to use over a laundry sink.
p.1 #3 · Processing for color and B/W 120/220 Film
You can get your film processed at any number of (busy) labs around the country. My personal favorite is the Icon (mostly because I can drop off my film in person and pick it up that day, however Indie Film Lab, Richard Photo Lab, and many more can't wait to hear from you.
However, film processing isn't cheap and as the prior poster said (and I agree), B&W is very easy to do yourself and there's isn't a big commitment in space or resources to try it. You also get the chance to try different developers and half of the fun is experimenting.
p.1 #4 · Processing for color and B/W 120/220 Film
Rob, I once upon a time printed B/W and CibaChromes Color, But all my equipment was lost in a basement flood at my parent/s house years ago. I had not graduated to processing film at that time,
So I had no film tanks or reels. I would like to get into that maybe, I'm not sure where to find the required chemistry or equipment. Any suggestions?
Douglas
p.1 #5 · Processing for color and B/W 120/220 Film
+1 for doing black and white yourself. That's what I do. I send C41 to Northeast Photographic in Maine or have it done at my local lab. I don't do slides, at least not until Fuji does something.
As for required equipment, facebook marketplace is worth a look. For chemicals, I prefer to buy from my local camera shop, and then B&H for whatever the local place doesn't have.
p.1 #6 · Processing for color and B/W 120/220 Film
douter wrote:
Rob, I once upon a time printed B/W and CibaChromes Color, But all my equipment was lost in a basement flood at my parent/s house years ago. I had not graduated to processing film at that time,
So I had no film tanks or reels. I would like to get into that maybe, I'm not sure where to find the required chemistry or equipment. Any suggestions?
Douglas
Hi Doug. I'm in Canada so we'll be using different suppliers. The good news is a lot of what you need is available online.
* A good change bag
* Tanks and reels
* Clips for hanging negatives to dry
* Sleeves for storage
You may be able to get the chemistry online too, but local stores are a good source. Don't cheap out on the tanks and reels -- especially the reels. You need an easy to use, high quality reel so you don't get frustrated trying to load and unload the film by touch.
It's easy to get lost in the options for chemistry and film. My advice to people is just pick something and get really comfortable with it. For my last and final "return to film" a few years ago, I went with Kodak Tmax 400 and Kodak HC-110. It's a liquid concentrate. You can make it really complicated to use if you like, or you can follow this guy's advice (which I did) and just use it direct from the bottle as a 1+49 mixture (below). The link is broken so I pasted the text of his post:
I chose Tmax 400 because I was shooting 4x5 and wanted a faster film that still supported fine detail. Tmax 100 is also excellent. As you'll see from the list below you can use HC-110 with just about any film you like.
========================
HC110 made simple (JBrunner on PhotoRio)
I thought I had posted this to the articles a long time ago, but I guess I didn't. So
for the archives and the children, here it is.
I like Hc110. Especially for roll film. I don't like the convoluted "working
solution" dilutions and sub dilutions, or the short times some of the dilutions
and sub dilutions create. It should be simple to use Hc110, like Rodinal.
If you care to research, there was a method to Kodaks madness when they
created the dilutions and routines for HC110, but they are of little
convenience for the darkroom enthusiast. I get more questions about
mixing and developing with HC110 than all other developers combined. It is
a great developer that doesn't need to be complex in usage, so I concocted a
metric dilution that goes by 50 (1+49) That means you use 1 ml of HC110 for
every 49 ml of water in a direct from the concentrate dilution.
Here is how to use it on roll film in an inversion tank, like Rodinal:
First of all, forget about saving and replenishing it. Mix up what you need, use
it, and dump it. It's so cheap under normal usage that saving it is fairly
useless from a cost savings perspective, plus consistent performance is
assured by using it one-shot.
Next, forget about an intermediate working solution. Mix it directly from the
concentrate. Use a small bottle and a baby syringe (available at any drug
store) to mix directly from the concentrate. Simply mix it 1+49 . Use the times
below as a starting guide (you may not expose the same as me, or may not
have the same taste in negatives, so these are only suggestions that should
get you in the ballpark to do your own tweeking)
So without further ado,
Hc110 direct from concentrate-1+49 , 68f 20c, agitate first 30s with 2
inversions every 30s thereafter.
****Note to the civilized-Please keep in mind that this methodology is for the
US version of the concentrate*****
Acros100 @ 100 - 8 min
Efke 25 @ 20 - 10.5 min
Efke100 @ 100 - 10 min
Ilford FP4+ @ 64 - 9 min
Ilford FP4+ @ 125 - 11 min
Ilford HP5 @ 400 - 8 min
Ilford HP5 @ 800 - 11.5 min
Plus X @ 125 - 8 min
Tmax100 @ 100 - 9 min
Tmax400 @ 400 - 9 min
TriX320 @ 320 -8 min
TriX400 @ 400 - 8 min
"return to film" a few years ago, I went with Kodak Tmax 400 and Kodak HC-110. It's a liquid concentrate. You can make it really complicated to use if you like, or you can follow this guy's advice (which I did) and just use it direct from the bottle as a 1+49 mixture (below). The link is broken so I pasted the text of his post: