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Archive 2025 · Morris's Fuji Birds In Flight and Action Setup – Updated 3/15/2025

  
 
morris
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p.1 #1 · Morris's Fuji Birds In Flight and Action Setup – Updated 3/15/2025


My settings are developed using the X-H2s and previously on the X-T3.

Firmware 7.1 has returned the X-H2s wonderful performance and reliable focus for still photography.

I’m now coining the term Fujiism, the odd things that Fuji cameras do that we know are wrong yet Fuji fails to fix them. I’ve learned to address some Fujiisims. The first is when you point at a subject and it’s so out of the focus that it’s not clear that there is something in front of the lens resulting in the camera laughing at you and doing nothing. The first thing I try is lifting my finger and then starting focus over. When that fails, I’ll zoom wider and usually the gain in DOF is enough to coax the camera to focus and then you can zoom back in while continuing to tell the camera to focus. Another approach is to pre-focus or focus closer than your subject will be. The camera searches for focus from near to far so being too close can work. When using a lens with focus preset, set the preset closer than you expect your subject to be and you can press the focus recall and then the camera will seek out. If there is a bird in flight, point down below it and then back to the bird will let you acquire focus.

Dealing with obstruction and the camera detects the subject yet focuses on the obstruction. Switch to manual focus or single point. It’s ridiculous that the camera has detected the subject yet dose not focus on it! Come on Fuji!

If you are using an older camera that dose not have subject detection, you will probably get many more in focus images if you set Release/Focus Priority to Focus. This will slow the burst rate yet the improvement is dramatic. Also, I'm not able to test if Front is the best setting for Zone Area Switching. I recommend you try Center as that's what I used with my X-T3.

I’ll add more workarounds for Fujiisims as I remember them.

Below is my Zone AF setup:

If you had this setup bookmarked, please change to this post as the old one has been archived and I can no longer edit it.

The X-H2s has replaced one of my X-T3 bodies and is my primary birds in flight camera. I’ve based the X-H2s on my X-T3 Birds in Flight Setup. It is important to understand that Subject Detection and Subject Eye Detection have priority over the configured AF configuration. When you point at a bird the camera will use the configured focus mode and AF-C settings to focus till it is able to see a subject and then it will switch to subject detection to focus and track it.

The X-H2s’s EVF is very bright and even waring glasses I have no trouble using it in bright sunlight. If you are using it with the electronic shutter lag is near zero and flicker is not evident making it very easy to track your subject as if you were using an SLR. A huge improvement over previous Fuji cameras.

I use AF-C with Zone Focus Mode. Set the zone to 3 boxes and steer with the focus stick as needed. I have been experimenting and have been using the following settings since April of 2019 (on my X-T3):

Tracking sensitivity: 4

Speed tracking sensitivity: 1

Zone area switching: Front

- 3/15/2025 Change recommendation for Zone area switching from Center to Front
- 12/18/2024 Updated for X-H2s firmware 7.1 and removed the recommendation to try Wide/Tracking rather than Zone.
- 12/18/2024 Unified for all Fuji Cameras

- 12/31/2023 Subject Detection Bird is a wonderful asset to our cameras and works wonderfully when the subject is stationary. When a bird is in flight it can work and tends to work well when the subject is moving across the field of view. When the subject is flying toward us, the X-H2s sometimes fails to keep up with the subject and may even louse the subject. This situation is worse as the bird gets very close and starts to fill the frame. After about a month of testing various settings to address this, I've concluded that the solution is to turn off Subject Detection when this happens. I do this with a button touch and the camera instantly switches to zone and the CPU has no issue tracking a rapidly approaching bird. I also prefer zone for groups of birds (flocks).

- 11/12/2022 I've experimented with Speed tracking sensitivity of 2. If there is contrast, this works yet if the contrast is low initial acquisition is near impossible. If you run into issues with low contrast focusing switch to 1. Some might want to set up a way to quickly switch. At this point I've seen enough issues to say 1 is the best choice. Also note that AF-C custom settings are just that and have no effect on subject tracking.

Other Settings to change:

Enable Boost

Release/Focus Priority I set AF-C to Release Priority as I want the camera to take a photo when I tell it to and the focus is reliable with most images sharp and occasionally an acceptable sharp image slips in while shooting at 40 FPS.

Turn off "Natural Live View" as this oddly named setting will let you see what your images will look like.

Change “IS Mode” to “shooting Only”. This will save battery power by only activating stabilization when you start focusing by ½ press the release. If you use back button focus, please check on how this works. If you let me know I’ll update this document. Some people have reported this causes issues with Sigma lens using the Fringer adapters. Test before and after changing so you know if you should use constant stabilization for your lens.

The bird/eye focus is extremally good yet there are times when it may not do what you want. Because of this I suggest you program a button to toggle subject detection on and off.

I’ve also programed a button to toggle Human face/eye on and off. It has priority over subject detection so it’s easy to switch between the two with this button.

If you want to change the subject type, use the Q Button. I’ve moved subject detection type to the top left for fast access.

I’ve also programed a button for Focus Mode. When you select this button, the choices appear and you must move between them with the rear command dial or the focus stick. I found it easier to touch this button and then scroll when a front button is used. The reason I put Focus Mode on a button is for situations where single point is needed. I usually keep my camera in zone.

Map ISO to the d-pad up and down buttons. This is an easy way to change the ISO. Up to increase, down to decrease.

I welcome corrections and suggestions.

I hope this helps some of you,

Morris

Ps. Revised 9/6/2022 by removing some historic text that lead to confusion.

9/12/2022 added ISO on d-pad up and down buttons

10/18/2022 mention speed tracking experiment. List reported issues with Sigma lenses and stabilization while shooting. No longer calling the setup draft.

10/24/2022 Listed conclusions regarding speed tracking.

10/31/2022 Updated speed tracking recommendation.

11/12/2022 Updated speed tracking with conclusion that 1 is the best and that AF-C custom settings do not affect subject tracking.

12/31/2023 Updated to recommend using zone for birds approaching the camera and for flocks



Mar 14, 2025 at 05:19 PM
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p.1 #2 · Morris's Fuji Birds In Flight and Action Setup – Updated 3/15/2025


Thank-you.


Mar 14, 2025 at 08:11 PM
Danpbphoto
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p.1 #3 · Morris's Fuji Birds In Flight and Action Setup – Updated 3/15/2025


I am new to Fuji(GFX100sii) and the learning curve is extreme coming from Canon dslrs.
While I am now mainly just a still photographer, I do want my motion images to be correct.

The controversy over Fuji's AF problems or inadequate AF is concerning me right now but not much.
Thanks for your work-a-rounds morris!

I like all the number of Cfn Fuji has but before I set those up I need to learn the basics.

My 1st outing was disappointing for me. Yes it was all me and either my menu selections or just poor composition and recording were the problems.
I tend to "overthink" things.

Thanks again morris!
Dan



Mar 17, 2025 at 10:15 AM
morris
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p.1 #4 · Morris's Fuji Birds In Flight and Action Setup – Updated 3/15/2025


Danpbphoto wrote:
I am new to Fuji(GFX100sii) and the learning curve is extreme coming from Canon dslrs.
While I am now mainly just a still photographer, I do want my motion images to be correct.

The controversy over Fuji's AF problems or inadequate AF is concerning me right now but not much.
Thanks for your work-a-rounds morris!

I like all the number of Cfn Fuji has but before I set those up I need to learn the basics.

My 1st outing was disappointing for me. Yes it was all me and either my menu selections or just poor composition and recording were the problems.
I tend to "overthink"
...Show more →

Hi Dan,

I believe that Fuji cameras are not completive when it comes to still photography and action. I don't shoot enough video to say. One thing to watch out for with Fuji is the pore english translations in there menus and and manuals. Read the manual very carefully and don't assume that a setting name is what you think without checking the manual. In some places like exposure it's what you'd expect yet others areas can be confusing. Take it slow and you will get used to the Fuji system.

Morris



Mar 17, 2025 at 11:21 AM
Danpbphoto
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p.1 #5 · Morris's Fuji Birds In Flight and Action Setup – Updated 3/15/2025


morris wrote:
Hi Dan,

I believe that Fuji cameras are not completive when it comes to still photography and action. I don't shoot enough video to say. One thing to watch out for with Fuji is the pore english translations in there menus and and manuals. Read the manual very carefully and don't assume that a setting name is what you think without checking the manual. In some places like exposure it's what you'd expect yet others areas can be confusing. Take it slow and you will get used to the Fuji system.

Morris


I shoot NO video.




Mar 17, 2025 at 01:27 PM
Danpbphoto
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p.1 #6 · Morris's Fuji Birds In Flight and Action Setup – Updated 3/15/2025


morris wrote:
Hi Dan,

I believe that Fuji cameras are not completive when it comes to still photography and action. I don't shoot enough video to say. One thing to watch out for with Fuji is the pore english translations in there menus and and manuals. Read the manual very carefully and don't assume that a setting name is what you think without checking the manual. In some places like exposure it's what you'd expect yet others areas can be confusing. Take it slow and you will get used to the Fuji system.

Morris


I am a snail..I am taking my new Fuji SLOW..very slow!
Thanks morris.....
Dan



Edited on Mar 18, 2025 at 10:07 AM · View previous versions



Mar 17, 2025 at 01:28 PM
kalani_kane
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p.1 #7 · Morris's Fuji Birds In Flight and Action Setup – Updated 3/15/2025


I've learned so much from FM forum for years but only joined recently, so if this is at all helpful, here are some additional x-h2s & gfx 100sii setting ideas from a non-pro enthusiast, newly interested wildlife photographer/videographer:
----------
xH2s
Shutter Type -> ES (Electronic Shutter needed for Pre-shot ES)
Drive Mode -> CH High Speed Burst "10" (CH High needed for Pre-shot ES)
Focus Mode -> Wide/Tracking
AF-C Custom Settings -> Set 2 "Ignore Obstacles & Continue to Track Subject"
Subject Detection Setting -> "Animal"
AF+MF -> switch to "ON" (NOTE: this setting Disables pre-shot ES!)
Focus Check -> "Peak" (Focus Peak Highlight Red(Low))

Custom Settings Dial:
C2 -> set to Animal detect (stills), shutter speed 1/800s
C1 -> set to Bird detect (stills), shutter speed 1/2500s
AE-L button mapping -> "C1 | Recall Custom 1 Setting"

Tip: Never ever use the physical red "record" button for video! This is meant as a "quick capture" and ignores all video settings, including subject detect or AF-C, and pulls focus for every object like a tree. Pretty awful since I chose the x-h2s for one-handed stills & video capture. You need to always turn the left dial control to "Video" or setup a Cx to video (but gets tricky if you've set it up already to C2-> "animal still", C2->"video still" and toggle between the two). Bummer.

When hiking, I set C2 for opportunistic stills "Animal", which I care more about, and use mapped "AEL" C1 recall button to switch to C1 "Bird" (but I'll probably map this now to video "Animal" after abandoning the red-button video button method)

I use AF then MF with peaking almost exclusively to initially find focus in dense brush, but once locked it seems to hold ok in STILLS (in video, give up and use manual-only)

Note for video, both x-h2s and 100sii do not have "AF-C Custom Setting" for video so instead you need to set in "Movie" using physical dial, "AF-C Custom Setting" to Tracking Sensitivity +2, AF Speed 0 (I guess on these, since I was advised to just use Manual focusing only for video...)
------------------

100sii (very new to me, coming from the 100 since launch)
too slow for ES, so set to EF (E-Front Curtain Shutter)
Shutter Type -> EF (E-Front Curtain Shutter)
Drive -> CL Low Speed Burst 2.0 fps (Using High Speed 7.0 or 5.0 seems fine, will switch shutter from EF to MS or you can set MS+ES, but with MS camera shake & general screen blackout vs. x-h2s blackout-free ES shooting experience makes me prefer Low Speed Burst for now)
Focus Mode -> Wide/Tracking
AF-C Custom Setting -> Set 2 "Ignore Obstacles & Continue to Track Subject"
Subject Detection Setting -> "Animal"
AF+MF -> switch to "ON" (especially in snow, AF fails so I use MF override)
Focus Check -> "Peak" (Focus Peak Highlight Red(Low))
Fn4 Button (front button) -> Subject Detection On/Off (I wish this cycled between subjects, but Fuji only allows On/Off from what Subject you have already set, frustrating...)

No Pre-shot ES available

Most Important Note!: half-pressing the shutter seems to work ok to first lock on subject, but shooting one frame then loses focus which absolutely sucks to re-acquire! Therefore, I *exclusively* use back-button-focus "AF ON" and layer 2 shots per front shutter button, which allows focus to remain locked on subject after shots. This has been the only successful approaching BIF-type shot attempts so far after my first and only opportunity (Eagle shot). Tracking a traversing BIF seems fine with either focusing method since it's easier to re-acquire focus.

Generally, one benefit of using 100sii vs. x-h2s is the ability to crop in, of course, but it helps to not try (need) to fill the frame with the subject (bird) and it's easier to track (vs. using a dot-sight to track).

I'm enjoying the 100sii & 500+1.4TC considerably so far, but by no means am a "wildlife" photographer nor will AF, subject detect, pre-shot/pre-capture or high speed frame rates match specialized FF systems (Fuji's inability to subject switch or auto detect is super frustrating, so choosing between Animal, Bird, People or turn off is a massive pain and along with everything else worth switching systems if wildlife or pre-capture BIF is really your main or only thing). Thanks!



Mar 17, 2025 at 03:15 PM
Danpbphoto
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p.1 #8 · Morris's Fuji Birds In Flight and Action Setup – Updated 3/15/2025


Thank you for your input kalani!
Lots to learn..For now I am trying to make it as basic as possible so I can see what the camera does with the image. As I become more familiar with the body, I will adjust the settings and add more custom functions.
Again THANKS for the info.
Dan



Mar 18, 2025 at 10:07 AM





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