I'd like to underline jcolwell's recommendation that you get good boots. If it's really going to be cold, your clothing is going to be more important to you than you camera gear. Canon cameras can (most often) take cold. -10 C is not particularly cold. You, on the other hand, may not be able to stand the cold for long if your clothing is inadequate. The boots and gloves are extremely important, because if you're standing around in the cold, your feet and hands are the first part of you to get uncomfortable. If your feet are freezing you won't be able to concentrate on anything else. If you can't feel your fingers, you can't operate your camera. Buy warmer clothing than you think you'll need.
I have used a variety of 1Dx bodies to shoot football. As others have mentioned, bring extra batteries and keep them inside your coat. The coldest I shot in was about 10 deg. Too cold for me then and certainly too cold for me now! I ended up leaving at halftime. Even tho I had hand warmers, they just don't help when you are actually shooting and I found it too clumsy taking them out and putting them back in my pocket.
Years ago I dragged my RB67 out in the field after a big snowfall. Temps were about 20F. When you are setting up for tripod shots that are pretty static, you have plenty of time to reach and hold those warmers.
Since I've lived in Fairbanks, Alaska, for some 54 years, I'll throw in a few random thoughts on this cold weather. It's minus 15 outside my window today. Warmer than yesterday's minus 31, but it'll be a bit above zero for the rest of the week. Times, they are changing.
OP has already gotten some great advice, but I'll fill in a few possible holes. You can purchase all sorts of cold-weather clothing here in Fairbanks. I'll be glad to give you some ideas where. Our kids trick-or-treat in temps below zero, sometimes minus 20. We have experience. You can rent a 4WD vehicle or just stay in the easier-to-get-to areas and drive an AWD rig.
As to your camera in the cold...I've never had any problems in the cold except that you'll be working those batteries hard. Bring extra. Batteries are hard to find in Fairbanks because no one will ship to us. A friend of mine did some time-lapse experiments just the other night at minus-30 and he left his R5 outside all night taking photos. The two grip batteries quit the job after 6 hours, but the camera worked and continues to work fine.
I'm one who has spent a lot of hours standing outdoors doing photography over the years, but on the rare occasion I'll go out to do some more aurora photos, I've also taken to setting up my camera and sitting in my Jeep sipping coffee while I wait for the "lights" to appear. One could then use a remote to take the photo or just get out of the car and fire the camera.
As to gloves...I use a lightweight pair of space-age fabric gloves of some type, but I'll have a pair of heavy Arctic mittens hanging around my neck. I keep my hands inside those mittens until I'm ready to take photos. The lightweight gloves allow dexterity and keep my bare hands off cold metal.
Be careful of condensation. A lot of folks just put their cold-soaked camera into a case and store it in the back seat, but I use garbage bags and let the camera warm slowly.
I hope you have a great adventure and get some magnificent photographs.
Jim McCann wrote:
Since I've lived in Fairbanks, Alaska, for some 54 years, I'll throw in a few random thoughts on this cold weather. It's minus 15 outside my window today. Warmer than yesterday's minus 31, but it'll be a bit above zero for the rest of the week. Times, they are changing.
OP has already gotten some great advice, but I'll fill in a few possible holes. You can purchase all sorts of cold-weather clothing here in Fairbanks. I'll be glad to give you some ideas where. Our kids trick-or-treat in temps below zero, sometimes minus 20. We have experience. You can rent a 4WD vehicle or just stay in the easier-to-get-to areas and drive an AWD rig.
As to your camera in the cold...I've never had any problems in the cold except that you'll be working those batteries hard. Bring extra. Batteries are hard to find in Fairbanks because no one will ship to us. A friend of mine did some time-lapse experiments just the other night at minus-30 and he left his R5 outside all night taking photos. The two grip batteries quit the job after 6 hours, but the camera worked and continues to work fine.
I'm one who has spent a lot of hours standing outdoors doing photography over the years, but on the rare occasion I'll go out to do some more aurora photos, I've also taken to setting up my camera and sitting in my Jeep sipping coffee while I wait for the "lights" to appear. One could then use a remote to take the photo or just get out of the car and fire the camera.
As to gloves...I use a lightweight pair of space-age fabric gloves of some type, but I'll have a pair of heavy Arctic mittens hanging around my neck. I keep my hands inside those mittens until I'm ready to take photos. The lightweight gloves allow dexterity and keep my bare hands off cold metal.
Be careful of condensation. A lot of folks just put their cold-soaked camera into a case and store it in the back seat, but I use garbage bags and let the camera warm slowly.
I hope you have a great adventure and get some magnificent photographs.
Thanks Jim! I wish I had known about that glove suggestion last week! I was in Iceland last week getting shots of the Northern Lights, glaciers, frozen waterfalls, etc. I will definitely use the gloves/mittens suggestion next time!
I can add more options based on motorcycle use, where you sit in a wind tunnel at high speed with not movement possible. Neoprene for socks and gloves, and heavy quilted jackets and pants. Many layers, the neck is most important. Air space under the outer layer is important, people in the Himalayas do this with traditional gear. Head and face coverings always.
'getting shits of the Northern Lights, glaciers, frozen waterfalls'
philip_pj wrote:
I can add more options based on motorcycle use, where you sit in a wind tunnel at high speed with not movement possible. Neoprene for socks and gloves, and heavy quilted jackets and pants. Many layers, the neck is most important. Air space under the outer layer is important, people in the Himalayas do this with traditional gear. Head and face coverings always.
'getting shits of the Northern Lights, glaciers, frozen waterfalls'
I'm sorry it upset you so much.
😀 Sorry, my fingers are still thawing out! Meant to write "shots" 😀
On a side note, while I did like the scenery, the folks there were less than friendly. To top it off, I ended up being "selected" for an enhanced search (almost a strip search and intense interrogation) on my way out of Iceland. I definitely won't be going back there anytime soon!
Both the Canon R6 II and Sony A7C are rated for temperatures between 32°F (0°C) and 104°F (40°C), but they can still work in colder temperatures like -10°C (14°F), though performance may be affected.
Key Points:
Battery Life: Cold weather drains batteries quickly. Bring spare batteries and keep them warm.
Condensation: Store the camera in a sealed bag when moving between warm and cold environments to avoid internal moisture.
Camera Freeze: Neither camera should completely fail, but you might experience slower response times and autofocus issues.
Which to Choose:
Canon R6 II: Better high-ISO and autofocus, but heavier.
Sony A7C: More compact and lighter, but may have slightly slower performance in extreme cold.
Both cameras should work for capturing the northern lights in cold conditions if you manage the battery and temperature well.
I've done -20F and -30F. It has never been an issue. I carry spare battery. I used an external battery with the T-90 but really didn't need it and got rid of it after one trip. A little worried about R5II because of reports in another thread on this web site. I suppose you can use an external battery charging pack in a heated pocket usb-C with the R5 and R5II. Have not needed a battery grip but I've not really worked at these temperatures with the mirrorless.
We used to stay north of Duluth for New Years and one year it was -28F wind some howling winds. Even with super warm clothing, I couldn't handle being out in the wind, but in the woods was fine. (I'm from MN.) I can ski race in cold temps, but photography is hard because you're not moving much. If you're shooting below 0F:
-Super warm pack boots with clean socks
-Skip the gloves and shoot with mittens
-Keep the camera in a bag or backpack until you're shooting, and then keep putting it in your jacket
-Outer layer should really block wind
-Chemical packs are useful particularly in boots if your feet are cold
-Lotion on your nose and cheeks helps with frostbite
snegron7 wrote:
On a side note, while I did like the scenery, the folks there were less than friendly. To top it off, I ended up being "selected" for an enhanced search (almost a strip search and intense interrogation) on my way out of Iceland. I definitely won't be going back there anytime soon!
And maybe they had legitimate reasons for doing so.
jay w wrote:
We used to stay north of Duluth for New Years and one year it was -28F wind some howling winds. Even with super warm clothing, I couldn't handle being out in the wind, but in the woods was fine. (I'm from MN.) I can ski race in cold temps, but photography is hard because you're not moving much. If you're shooting below 0F:
-Super warm pack boots with clean socks
-Skip the gloves and shoot with mittens
-Keep the camera in a bag or backpack until you're shooting, and then keep putting it in your jacket
-Outer layer should really block wind
-Chemical packs are useful particularly in boots if your feet are cold
-Lotion on your nose and cheeks helps with frostbite
Handwarmer advice. Put them in your mittens and leave them. No need to fuss with hands and warmers in pockets. You can keep thin gloves on if need be. I shoot and ski in wyoming backcountry. Some days need hand and toe warmers. Jp
Coldest I’ve shot in was -37F in Minnesota, camera worked fine but it was also at sunrise and we were shooting into the light so the camera was probably warming some from that. But yeah the most important thing by far is getting solid cold weather gear. A good base, mid, and shell layer will let you shoot out in basically any conditions for extended periods. Best money I ever spent was on a muff beltpack though, if you throw a couple hand warmers in there it’s like having an oven at your waist. You can just wear regular gloves then and keep your hands in the muff with your tripod set up and ready to go and just take your hands out when it’s time to shoot. Highly recommend looking into hunting brands like Sitka, their gear is expensive but it’s made to keep you warm for extended periods where you’re sitting still.
-40 F in appropriately named Coldfoot, Alaska. My feet were cold but the Canon R5 hung in there. Don’t breath on the back of your camera (frost) or touch anything metal (L bracket, etc.) or you will regret it!
I use the Military white rubber bunny boots which come in a wide variety of widths. Most other boots only come in a medium width. My feet have never been cold and were actually hot when others were complaining of cold feet in Churchill. Military rates at -60F and I suspect this was determined by a private in a freezer rather than the marketing department as with some other boots. The Cabela's trans alaska boot is very warm as well and used by some of the people trying to photograph polar bear mothers emerging from their den.
